1/12 forum
I'm getting closer to getting the car done, but I couldn't resist taking some photos tonight. I'm awaiting the ESC and charger, and need to paint the body and solder up the packs and I'm ready to race.
If you see something ont he car I did wrong, holla... it's been a long time since I put one of these back together.
Yeah, I even went old school with the wheel discs. Some habits are hard to break.
If you see something ont he car I did wrong, holla... it's been a long time since I put one of these back together.
Yeah, I even went old school with the wheel discs. Some habits are hard to break.
Last edited by purpurite; 11-29-2010 at 02:57 PM.
I run the carpet Knife and the only thing I would recomend would be is go to the kimbrough black servo saver(much stronger then the white its a med I believe) and I would ck to see if your shock should be mounted one hole forword closer to the antenna with about a 1-1 1/2mm of droop in the rear pod other then that it looks great.
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
I'm getting closer to getting the car done, but I couldn't resist taking some photos tonight. I'm awaiting the ESC and charger, and need to paint the body and solder up the packs and I'm ready to race.
If you see something ont he car I did wrong, holla... it's been a long time since I put one of these back together.
Yeah, I even went old school with the wheel discs. Some habits are hard to break.
If you see something ont he car I did wrong, holla... it's been a long time since I put one of these back together.
Yeah, I even went old school with the wheel discs. Some habits are hard to break.
Bumper? I don'need no stinkin' bumper!
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I will definitely mount the servo using 4 screws instead of two. I didn't know there was another small servo saver for Futaba servos. I'm going to need to seek that out.
As for the rear shock, I wasn't sure about the mounting position. The CK3.2 instruction booklet is more than a little vague. No reasoning behind much of the assembly, and certainly no explaination as to why something would need to be done one way or another. Looking at the mount, it looked as if the ball end on the shock would interfere with the antenna and cause binding. I shortened the shock length (with the ballcup length) to compensate for the shortened spring preload, so the droop currently is set at slightly below level with a straightedge.
The current shock adjusting nut was a stock CRC piece with the shock, and the replacement from Associated was identical; both fitting horribly on the threaded shock body, and neither having threads in them to begin with. The next item I buy is an aluminum nut for the shock. I can see that stock piece failing on me before too long.
Also, to anyone also using the new CRC front end, with the press-fit upper hinge pin, a set screw is not needed, but provided for with the new mounts. Does anyone use a set screw to hold everything together? I tried, but it bound up the upper pin because then the only movement was within the press-fit machined arm. Might have to ream that one out.
Other than than, as a second- or third-hand race car, I think it is coming along nicely. Can't wait to fire it up (sorry, I still have nitro tendencies).
Also, is anyone using Keyence Zero V speed controllers? I just acquired one for this car in a trade, and Keyence is fairly new to me. I'm wondering if there is anything I should know about its setup and performance.
Thanks!
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I will definitely mount the servo using 4 screws instead of two. I didn't know there was another small servo saver for Futaba servos. I'm going to need to seek that out.
As for the rear shock, I wasn't sure about the mounting position. The CK3.2 instruction booklet is more than a little vague. No reasoning behind much of the assembly, and certainly no explaination as to why something would need to be done one way or another. Looking at the mount, it looked as if the ball end on the shock would interfere with the antenna and cause binding. I shortened the shock length (with the ballcup length) to compensate for the shortened spring preload, so the droop currently is set at slightly below level with a straightedge.
The current shock adjusting nut was a stock CRC piece with the shock, and the replacement from Associated was identical; both fitting horribly on the threaded shock body, and neither having threads in them to begin with. The next item I buy is an aluminum nut for the shock. I can see that stock piece failing on me before too long.
Also, to anyone also using the new CRC front end, with the press-fit upper hinge pin, a set screw is not needed, but provided for with the new mounts. Does anyone use a set screw to hold everything together? I tried, but it bound up the upper pin because then the only movement was within the press-fit machined arm. Might have to ream that one out.
Other than than, as a second- or third-hand race car, I think it is coming along nicely. Can't wait to fire it up (sorry, I still have nitro tendencies).
Also, is anyone using Keyence Zero V speed controllers? I just acquired one for this car in a trade, and Keyence is fairly new to me. I'm wondering if there is anything I should know about its setup and performance.
Thanks!
Hey Carl, I'm gonna send out your car in a couple days, just waiting on a couple pieces to get here so I can finish my vegas car, need to use your tires to figure out how big to cut the wheel wells.
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
The current shock adjusting nut was a stock CRC piece with the shock, and the replacement from Associated was identical; both fitting horribly on the threaded shock body, and neither having threads in them to begin with. The next item I buy is an aluminum nut for the shock. I can see that stock piece failing on me before too long.
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Also, to anyone also using the new CRC front end, with the press-fit upper hinge pin, a set screw is not needed, but provided for with the new mounts. Does anyone use a set screw to hold everything together? I tried, but it bound up the upper pin because then the only movement was within the press-fit machined arm. Might have to ream that one out.
http://rc10.com/enlarge/rc12l4_hinge_pins.htm
If you take a look at my car above you will see I am running the machined arms from CRC along with the machined aluminum blocks and those AE pins. This is by far the best front end I have ever run. The arms should be the wear part, not your aluminum blocks.
Let me know how it comes out for you,
Nick
Originally Posted by Nick-C
The plastic nut will not fall off, they are not threaded and very tight for a reason. You would hate to see that nut move on you during a run (not that I feel it would). I have been running the same nut since my 12LC 

The reason your front end seems a little strange is those hinge pins. You have the old style L pins in there. You want to switch those out for the AE part #4569 ($2.00). It's a straight ground titanium pin that is held in place with those two set screws. The link below has a great detail shot for you.
Thanks much!
doug
apex--
With the spring cars it's a really good idea to run the metal shock adjuster, since the springs are much heavier than what you would run with a t bar car. The plastic nuts are nowhere near as cool anyway.
With the spring cars it's a really good idea to run the metal shock adjuster, since the springs are much heavier than what you would run with a t bar car. The plastic nuts are nowhere near as cool anyway.



2991Likes

wOOt!
It needs to be replaced!