I have everything on my set to the manual specs. Maybe I will have to play with it a little more. Also the manta ray diff is not recommended for the m03.

Peace Aaron(W-W)

Hey, Thanks for the help!

Hey, does your father know your crusing the net?!?!?!?!

Weird how the Manta Ray (53070) diff is pictured on the M03 box as a recommended upgrade... (not trying to start anything, just an observation)

The people that told me said it wasn't recommended. Maybe because the manta ray is heavier & you want less weight. I am not sure why this is the reason I got the TA03 ball diff. I have also heard this from several other people on the internet. I guess if they both work then buy what you feel. I don't have that written on my box.

Peace Aaron(W-W)

If you want to lighten that diff even more, try looking for #53219, 1/10 Touring Car Aluminum Pressure Plate Set. It's discontinued, but if you're looking for another hop-up for your M-03/04 here it is, if you can find it...



It's a mouthful, but comes in a card-package like the ball diffs. It's a whole machined-aluminum housing for the diff, 30% lighter than the regular cast aluminum parts it replaces. Also comes with a one-piece thrust bearing too, which is nice, along with Cone washers and screw. It worked for my TA03 diff, but I'm sure the manta ray diff would be the same case.

I have it in my M-04, and man it just shoots down the straightaways. Less rotational mass so it picks up faster, as well as achieve a higher top-end.

Mumble Mumble:
You say that Manta Ray Diff (MRD) is heavy, so this is not good for the M03.
But actually more weight in the front help the front traction, and more rotating mass make the accelaration more smooth with less tire spins.

As well the fact that the MRD is not even a well smooth diff help to have the diff more tight, that help to make the car more quick in the steering response.

e_lm_70

I don't know about you but my m03 is already pushing enough. More weight in the front would make it push more. If your front is stiff that will help it enough to get good traction. More rotating mass will make accelaration alot slower. My local track is a tight course, I need the fast accelaration. A better fast servo will make the steering alot better & quicker. I came in here to provide what I have learned. I didn't come here to be mocked in any way shape or form. Everything I have listed is my opinion & the opinion of people who have helped me. There is the possibility that were both right, yes. Could we both be wrong, yes.

Peace Aaron(W-W)

I just switched from a gear diff packed with Tamiya anti-wear grease to a tao3 ball diff.

You can really see the difference in acceleration and top end.

How tight do you tighten the ball diff or how much do you losen after fully locked down?

Has anybody used blue lock tight on the set screw so the diff will not losen during a race?

Let's see some pics .................

I usually tighten all the way, then back off a half or quarter-turn, then I use Tamiya threadlock with that screw just in case. It's pretty limited in adjustments, but the clamshells can be played with a bit by adding or removing one..

You can try taking out one of the clamshell cones, the one of the large 3 that isn't clammed together with another washer... ><>..

It may seem stiff at first, but will free up after a run. Just don't forget the threadlock no matter what you do, and let it dry fully before putting it out for a run.. heh..

If anyone has any good setups for a Rover MO3 Mini could you please post or PM me them.

Thanks in advance,
Sean

I have the setup I use above in a previous post.

Peace Aaron(W-W)

What is this looks like a mini chassis??????????????????????