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Old 07-02-2005 | 06:33 PM
  #13486  
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Originally Posted by 1armed1
What pod side plates are compatible on the yokomo yrx-12we?
And what axle setup can I use to convert to the bigger diff setup?
Thanks
Any plates that fit a 12L3/4 will work, I just got the IRS 4 bolt plate conversion plates to replace the ones on my YRX12 WE because the ride hieght adjusters are loose in them. I wish I could keep the Yok ones because they are lowered more than any others.
You can use an IRS big ring diff to replace the stealth diff that comes with the Yok; and you can get it in blue to match all the other parts on the WE. Or for the best diff of all, get a Niftech (but no blue). You will need to replace the right and left hubs as well.
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Old 07-02-2005 | 06:50 PM
  #13487  
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Originally Posted by 1armed1
What pod side plates are compatible on the yokomo yrx-12we?
And what axle setup can I use to convert to the bigger diff setup?
Thanks
For bodies you can't beat the Parma Speed 8. The Protoform Speed 12 works well as well. When mounting bodies on 1/12th cars, I like to make them fit a little loose. This allows the chassis to do its work and prevents the body from becoming part of the chassis. Also make sure you keep the wires low so these new breed of bodies will sit down at their proper height.
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Old 07-02-2005 | 07:51 PM
  #13488  
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Originally Posted by HKlosi
I'm lookin into gettin a Speedmerchant Rev. 4 for the summer sizzler, I have a few questions about set-up and body choice. Which body should I get? Which compound tires Should i get, and which spring should i order?
Hk-I will be running one at ths Sizzler. The Rev 4 is a great car. Run either a Parma Speed 8 or a Proto Speed 12. For tires, purple fronts and grey rears are good for stock. I run the black 17# center spring, and usually white sides. Just get all the side springs as the are cheap. For fronts .020 or .018 should cover you. Stop by and ask for any help if you need it. Jucha or Andrew Ellis should also be able to help if they are there.
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Old 07-03-2005 | 10:24 PM
  #13489  
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FYI, the fastest CRC guys run the T-Fource with tweak screws and no side springs...just like the 12L3/4. Why, because it works better that way.
I think Eli Ezrow won 2004 Cleveland with side springs, no tweak screws on his T-Fource.
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Old 07-03-2005 | 10:36 PM
  #13490  
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[QUOTE=HKlosi]
Originally Posted by Crashby
What surface are you racing on? Carpet or asphalt?[/QUI'm running on carpet, its at trackside
Crashby is currently running on asphalt during our outdoor season in NorCal. Mostly Ripon and Modesto.
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Old 07-04-2005 | 02:21 AM
  #13491  
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Is there expert who can teach me how can I connect my electronics together? I have a KO VFS1, KO 302F, a KO 949ICS and I am planning to use receiver pack.

Do I need to avoid connecting the red wire of the VFS1 to the receiver?

Help me please.

Regards,
Kenny
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Old 07-04-2005 | 06:29 AM
  #13492  
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Originally Posted by Tekin
OMG , how could I be so stupid!
My mistake, anyway he was on the money!
Sorry, I didn't mean to sound rude.

Cheers!
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Old 07-04-2005 | 11:27 AM
  #13493  
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Can you guys post pics of your layouts? I need some inspiration ie. odpurple -JB
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Old 07-04-2005 | 12:31 PM
  #13494  
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Originally Posted by JayBee
Can you guys post pics of your layouts? I need some inspiration ie. odpurple -JB
You didn't say what kind of car, here's a variety

Last edited by odpurple; 07-10-2008 at 07:50 PM.
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Old 07-04-2005 | 12:49 PM
  #13495  
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Default make your tires anew

use the sponge for soldering job...wet them...let them dry completely...soak in some liquid which people use to thin building decoration paint (but it is not thinner...i am not exactly sure about the english name but i will try to find it out later), spin you tires on tire truer and rub the spone against the tire like you are sanding your tires with sand paper.....

the tires will get some clean and grippy...like when they are just out of box...and in fact you will smell the same smell....
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Old 07-04-2005 | 03:22 PM
  #13496  
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Originally Posted by odpurple
You didn't say what kind of car, here's a variety
I'm sorry. I posted pics of my car on this page so I didn't think to mention it. I have the T-Fource... -JB
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Old 07-04-2005 | 03:46 PM
  #13497  
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest
I was just pointing out that the "fastest CRC guys" don't always run T-fources, and had Masami not "driven through" Hara in one of the first two mains at the Worlds, a T-bar free car (and link free car too) might be World Champion right now.

Both systems work, like you said, it's personal preference. I just get tired of the blanket statement "T-bars cars work better".
Driving through Hara was questionable, it looked more like Masami had a tighter line and Hara tried to shut the door, but that's another discussion. The fact is, Masami's car (well his driving too) was faster. He dotted and got a couple of turns back and over the race pulled Hara back in. The incident would have never happened if Masami wasn't faster and able to catch him. The other heat was a blow out, Masami was just fast and that's with a t-plate.
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Old 07-04-2005 | 03:59 PM
  #13498  
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Originally Posted by odpurple
You didn't say what kind of car, here's a variety
Do you have any pics of the wiring on a non t-bar car (specifically a carpet knife) without the battery in? My wires really get in the way when I use my ascari body.
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Old 07-04-2005 | 04:11 PM
  #13499  
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Originally Posted by Seano
Do you have any pics of the wiring on a non t-bar car (specifically a carpet knife) without the battery in? My wires really get in the way when I use my ascari body.
You could do the wiring like this Rev4 or this H12.

Last edited by odpurple; 07-10-2008 at 07:50 PM.
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Old 07-04-2005 | 04:14 PM
  #13500  
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Thanks, just what I was after
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