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Old 07-15-2005, 11:41 AM
  #13636  
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Originally Posted by teamatlas
hey OdD are you still running the hara ?/ i might make it out next week for ripon maybe ??
if so i will bring my hara out.
seeya
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I've been running either the Hara or my Yokomo-come on out! 1/12th racing has been hot!
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Old 07-15-2005, 01:12 PM
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Dino race. i will have to see that. I was told you retired
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Old 07-15-2005, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by teamatlas
steve have you tryed the multi faze charge on the pro track yet ??
I have not tried the multiphasic charge yet. While I understand the concept, I am not sure how to make that happen on my charger. Too many buttons.

CE: I know you have been using mulitphasic charging for a while now. Any conclusions? Unfortunately for stock motors, it's all about voltage. Any data that the voltage is higher using MP charging?
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Old 07-15-2005, 06:31 PM
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Crashby, Atlas,

The numbers say that Multi Phasic is slightly better in all areas - voltage run time and punch. i don't know if it is enough to be able to feel it on the track but my tests say it's better I'm using it all of the time now.

Chris.
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Old 07-15-2005, 06:46 PM
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"LISTEN TO HIM" -JB
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Old 07-15-2005, 09:16 PM
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Default Damper tube question...

What are you guys running in you side damper tubes? I have been running 60wt silicone shock oil on my Hyperdrive but it seems to be double steering. It seems like it turns, rolls, looses grip, gets grip again then finishes the turn. It think it may be under damped.

I am running the following:

Rear:
Trinity Pink tires
.68 T-bar w/ two outer screws attaching rear pod and normal tweak screws
30wt oil in AE Micro VCS damper
Green AE spring
Alloy CRC side tubes
Full width suntan lotion for traction compound

Front:
Trinity Purple Tires
.020" springs
AE 12L3 front end 10deg reactive caster
~2deg caster
Red Stuff grease on king pins
Angled upright servo no bump toe at all
Inner 3/4 width Suntan lotion for traction compound
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Old 07-15-2005, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by gotyournumber
Dino race. i will have to see that. I was told you retired
im going to try to make it i have been to busy to race. if not im going to dump all my stuff.
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Old 07-15-2005, 09:50 PM
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Adrian,

It sounds like you are way too underdamped. The springs on one side are compressing then pushing back but the damping can't slow it down enough to stop the rebounding from going to far so it's oscilating back and forth. 60wt is not even close to being enough. If you have the trinity light damping fluid (red cap) try that if not, try and get hold of some losi hydra drive fluid, I use heavy but that may be too much in CRC tubes. This stuff is difficult to get hold of though. you can try 10,000 wt silicon and see if that works, there is a few higher and lower wieghts which you can try too.

Chris.
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Old 07-15-2005, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by crimson eagle
Adrian,

It sounds like you are way too underdamped. The springs on one side are compressing then pushing back but the damping can't slow it down enough to stop the rebounding from going to far so it's oscilating back and forth. 60wt is not even close to being enough. If you have the trinity light damping fluid (red cap) try that if not, try and get hold of some losi hydra drive fluid, I use heavy but that may be too much in CRC tubes. This stuff is difficult to get hold of though. you can try 10,000 wt silicon and see if that works, there is a few higher and lower wieghts which you can try too.

Chris.
Thanks Chris, Thats what I though.
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Old 07-15-2005, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
Thanks Chris, Thats what I though.
I've been trying some different tire compunds and have found that they have some relation to the cornering loading and unloading problem you described. My car did exactly as you said yours did with pink tires. When I changed to greens or aquas the car smoothed way out entering turns (and was bolted).
But we are all using heavier dampening than yours. I use about the lightest with 100 wt shock oil in the CRC tubes on my Yokomo. Ashby uses the heaviest, usually something like diff lube.
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Old 07-15-2005, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by odpurple
I've been trying some different tire compunds and have found that they have some relation to the cornering loading and unloading problem you described. My car did exactly as you said yours did with pink tires. When I changed to greens or aquas the car smoothed way out entering turns (and was bolted).
But we are all using heavier dampening than yours. I use about the lightest with 100 wt shock oil in the CRC tubes on my Yokomo. Ashby uses the heaviest, usually something like diff lube.
at our asphalt track:

i had this issue also. purple fronts / pink rears, i was running a black spring, 30wt, .63 t-bar (2 screws). too soft for the amount of traction the pinks had. greys worked with this set-up but they wear way to fast.

to get the car to handle with pink rears i ended up with a green center spring, 40 wt in shock, .70 DP t-bar (all 3 screws), losi hydra drive fluid in tubes. this calmed down the over grab on acceleration. also instead of the pinks causing the rear to be in a grab & break traction status in the turns, the car feels like it's now in a controlled traction drift status. don't know how else to explain it, but it's a pleasure to drive.
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Old 07-16-2005, 07:57 AM
  #13647  
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Interesting comments about the pink rears. I had been making some changes to my L4 with thick chassis from discs to tubes as it seemed the rear was chattering and possibly lifting the inside rear tire. I've run both setups, damper disc and tubes with similar results.

The car is setup with

19turn
.020 fronts, preloaded for near zero sag
silver rear spring
30wt oil
.070 (measured) associated tplate with oem tweak screw locations
5* front with a shim on each side of the upper arm
Batteries aft.
camber for flat tire wear and zero toe in / toe out
Hand soap on rears, nothing on fronts.
Smooth high grip surface, with VHT.
I've tried both damper discs with teflon shims and 90wt silicone, plus thicker silicones, and also crc damper tubes with thick silicone.

The car runs well, and is definately responsive, it just seems that after the chassis transitions, it may be lifting the inside rear tire and winding up the diff.

I had Tim Potter run it also and he ran the car well, being less aggressive in his driving style though fast, but it still seemed to unload a tire.

Even with all this happening the chassis does not become upset enough to have the rear come around.

I persoanally want to say it needs more rear side spring control. Possibly put the CRC unitune back on running the tweak screws and side springs combined. Or build an old school type adjustable antiroll bar to allow quick change fine tuning of the Tplate.

Any thoughts?

PK
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Old 07-16-2005, 01:10 PM
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PMK - Are you running at Tim's new track? The surface there is very unusual and you may want to try a different rear tire to reduce traction a bit. Old fashioned Green Dot foam might be the way to go.

What traction compound are you using? IF you are using Paragon or some other "real" traction compound you might be getting too mush grip out of the tires. Try some Coppertone Water Babies 45. Coat the rear tires, let it soak in for as long as you can, the longer the better. Wipe it off with a tire rag until the tires are all clean (they may still feel slick, thats OK) ands go race. The suntan lotion will give more moderate, more consistent traction than "real" traction compounds.
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Old 07-16-2005, 01:31 PM
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Edit: Actually never mind, I found what I needed in a search lol.......

-Korey
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Old 07-16-2005, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
Edit: Actually never mind, I found what I needed in a search lol.......

-Korey
Korey,

Check out Mike Lufaso's site, he has got loads of set-ups on that site with even more tips and tricks.
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