I am using what the book recommends, 13.4 for composite ring and pinion and internal gears. No issues with the fluid.

20.2 with metal gear it s not even to the top of the cross pin. I tried 20.5 and it didn't spill when closing it.
I feel like it's like the original and an update or revision should come.

I’m running a little more than what the book recommended, it seemed a little light to me.

After 1 race on my new car I notice a lot of wear on the front axle dogbone. Running 5.5 motor on outdoor flat astroturf. The slipper and one way was set as manual.
Differential were set per manual too.

Slipper and diff set as manual.

That is crazy wear! I wonder if you use a CVA setup would be more beneficial?

contact horizon customer service, the will take care of you

My Elite uses CVD type inputs into the diff housings and MOD bimetallic centre drive with pucks to save wear. You have to watch for wear on the pins still in the input CVDs, but they have 2 sets of holes.

With the 2.0, I think this in conjunction with a decoupled slipper and mod motor must be very hard on the inputs.

If or when I get a 2.0, I'll be setting it up like my Elite - with a centre diff and MOD driveline. 4.5T motor is very unforgiving.

Unless you use hardened spring steel inputs and/or pin cushions - this is going to be a recurring problem for anyone using mod motors on carpet. 🤞

It will be interesting to see what Horizon suggest. Rinse repeat isn't really a viable option. Something has to be changed.

I am using the MOD puck system on my 2.0. You will need to get an extra extended CV barrel end, the rear shaft is a bit too short for the 2.0, there is extra slop. The driveshaft sits just at the end of the center diff outdrive.

I will ask the shop where I bought the car to see what he can do.

Picture?

I was thinking of upgrading my Elite to a 2.0, Gullwings, 13mm shocks, lower shock towers, upgraded transmission housings - but using a centre diff instead of the decoupled slipper and keeping the carbon fibre chassis. This means all the advantages of the 2.0, but with the aggressive handling of the Elite, which is now something I have become accustomed to. It's 3mm shorter this way (compared to the 2.0 chassis). But much lighter and with bimetallic centre drive, MOD pucks etc.



Team OPS driver now, so need to ensure I maintain some sort of competitive edge. The slightly shorter wheelbase is totally acceptable for those who are used to it - and the buggy is quicker for it, provided consistency is maintained.

See post 72, I need to use 2 of the longer CV barrels to not have the rear be so close to the edge. Another thought, which I have not done, is possibly using the b74 setup. That has a 95mm rear bone.

Sway bar kit is the same part number for elite and 2.0.
But the 2.0 require a larger size in the middle.
Tlr234126.

The part number has been redesigned for the 2.0. The center section is longer than the elite version, accommodating for the 2.0 redesign of the sway bar mount.