I fee that's overrated in stock. If you're at partial throttle and feel like you need more, pull more throttle.

Being some degrees off in the positive direction would fail ROAR testing.

Gigga is correct on this. In order to meet ROAR regulations, the ESC's have to be set to zero degrees.

Yes, as the blinky code should say that it is in zero degree timing but how accurate zero is it?

The ROAR testing equipment ensures it's accurate.

Interesting, how is ROAR testing this?
Is it with a same setup as used on the worlds many years ago with the use of a scope?

So far I have seen over here only the blinky code is checked and with RPM limiter ESC's there are different blinky codes.

I'm not referring to scrutineering at events. To get put on the approval list the manufacturer has to send samples. I'm not sure the specific equipment they use but I believe oscilloscopes are involved.

I'm sure they have some pretty cool tools to check this stuff. I wish I had the knowledge to create these types of gadgets.

It's not so much the speed as how quickly it reaccelerates when you get back on the throttle. It may be completely imaginary but it's something I felt going from one ESC to another. Same motor, same battery, same gear. Basically, what happened is I plugged my ESC backwards, had to replace it with another brand. Set the new one as close as I could with what I had on the old one. The new one wasn't faster in top speed, but the car definitely accelerated quicker out of the corner. And it wasn't because the ESC I smoked was old, I had only 2-3 races on it.

Again, you may have had different experiences, but that's what I meant by being punchier.

Martin Paradis

I can't lay my hands on it (there's a ROAR document on this) right now, but I have the recollection that there is an upper limit for the time the motor phase must fire after the sensor is tripped. I think it's 8 microseconds. Zero tolerance (pardon the pun) for firing early. Testing is done with an oscilloscope.

I have tinkered with a field-usable tool for doing this, but too many distractions...

Hoping you can squeeze an elceram g2 oxide into the budget, mean’t to be smoothest on the roar scope

I would like to know if the Low IR claims for esc’s are real or a marketing gimick.Tekin RS black edition and Hobbywing X come to mind. I don’t think you need to compare all the esc’s but compare justock and Cayote crest 60/80 amp esc against their top dollar sibling.

Measuring that would take some rather specialist equipment, we're talking microohms. Most brands don't even bother advertising that spec anymore, I can't find it on Hobbywing at least.

If you know what FET's are used and how many parallel you can determine it by the datasheet. You can be pretty sure this is how the ESC spec is determined.

That's another thing you can do with internet researching instead of buying a bunch to test.