I use the factory spool and I'm currently building DCJ's for my TCS TT-02R. They are not restricted parts per the rules....not that anyone checks anyway. The only thing I've seen tech'd at the regional level is weight, battery voltage, blinky, and running the HW FTM.

No teching the screw material(only made by tamiya), or paint composition??? Over control to its finest...

No clue what you mean by paint composition, the rules just state the body must be painted.

As far as screws, it's only Tamiya hardware if you end up winning the 'Ticket To Japan'. Otherwise, any manufacturer's steel, aluminum, or titanium screw is allowed.

Can you add part numbers for the front dcj's. Thanks

I meant you'll need to use tamiya paint only ! Make sure it's a 'Tamiya' ticket before boarding the plane...lol...

Nowhere in the rules does it state it has to be any particular brand of paint.. Not that they would even remotely be able to tell unless you came in with some ride that was painted in like Rustoleum Chrome or some color they obviously don't make.

It's called sarcasm.

Is the metal geared diff prefered over the plastic? I accidentally ordered the metal gear version. I'm also running a front spool. I also read earlier in the thread the the Raikiri body is recommended. I currently have the nissan motul gtr body.

I personally prefer the plastic version (22049) over the metal version (54875). It's lighter and does the job well enough. I race carpet with Torque Tuned Motor or Hobbywing 21.5 FTM, so it's not insanely fast. I had the older metal ones from long ago and one of the spider gears became stuck and was a royal pain to pull off.

The Raikiri body is Tamiya's lowest profile touring car body. It's not typically allowed in certain TCS classes such as the GT Pro Spec. But if you are just driving around for fun, it doesn't really matter what body you use.

I graduated from bashing to racing 18 years ago. I have yet to blow the internal plastic gears on a single diff in racing. Metal gears are over kill for onroad. Off road is a different story.

22054 37mm shafts
42220 5x10x3 bearings
42218 DCJ axles
42320 light weight joint casing
42319 - optional lightweight cross joint no pins or retainers
42221- this is the std cross joint set but has the retainer springs and roll pins

So my Benz GT3 TT-02R is finished now, time to get batteries for it.. Are you folks that run the TCS stuff using full size lipos or shorties?? And what mAH would you recommend? I've got a couple of 6500mAH GensAce shorties I use in my RC10B7 but I would need to order some foam to keep them from bashing around in the tray heh. Was thinking to just buy a pair of 6100 full size GensAces for it, but I ran across a lot of pics of folks with 5000mAH in it. Is that going to cut down power in the last bit of the race or does everybody get by with that? Just curious to see what everyone is using and making it through a race with.

R1 5900 200C

Finished my tt02-r build this weekend. I used the Xv-02/Tt-02 spool for the front. On testing out in my driveway, I'm getting real bad wheel hop when turning. Is there something Im missing? Stock diff in the back, oil diff is on order.

Built this is for TCS so all tamiya parts:
tt02-r Kit
oil kit shocks with small spacer
Full steering kit
Adjustable arms
Silver can 540
Tamiya Kit tires
64/29 spur pinion

Tamiya kit tires have very little grip, so I'm surprised you would encounter hopping while turning when driving around on asphalt, which is a very loose surface to begin with. What's your spring set up? You don't want too stiff, and generally slightly softer in the rear for that rear traction. Also, aluminum 2.5 or 3 degree rear hub toe in may help if you don't have those already on.

At my carpet track, we run 5 minutes and I probably use up to roughly 40% of the battery, using a 5000mAH stick pack and for me, it's been pretty consistent with no drop in output towards the end of the heat. Try what you have first and see how much is used after each run, and if there are any noticeable drop in outputs in the last minute of a qualifier or race (which I highly doubt you should encounter).