I am looking at racing TC 25.5 and was wondering if it's worth the extra spend for the 3 vs the 2R. Any input and experience appreciated.

Not quite sure what to answer to that.

If your question is will the 2R be still competitive in 25.5, then the answer is yes. Pretty much every relatively recent chassis will be competitive unless you are competing for top national spot.

From a future proofing perspective, then you are probably better with the 3. It’s the newer platform, it will probably be supported for a longer time.

I found the MTC3 to be easy to adjust and maintain. Didn’t have the 2R, so I can’t compare. It reacts well to setup changes and is predictable. Building it sent quite well, though the many tiny c-clips can sometimes be a pita…

Hope it helps,
Martin Paradis

It does help Martin, thank you very much!!

The MTC2R is still a good platform.
Both cars use the same diffs and universal drive shafts. Both cars are competitive.
The MTC2R uses standard upper arms, hence the caster and camber is much easier to adjust.
The MTC3 you need the caster needle and hudy tools to do the proper alignment of caster and camber.
At our local indoor, track, there is really no difference in lap time between both cars when running in the TC class.
The main difference is the the MTC3 has a lower CG hence less likely to traction roll on a very high grip black carpet track.
The MTC3 carries a higher corner speed as a result of this, it has less wheel scrub in high speed, so you may notice more of a performance advantage in a larger flowing or outdoor track.
But on a small tight track,, there is no difference.

To be honest, I still prefer my MTC2R on technical medium grip tracks. I only resort to the MTC3 if the grip skyrockets. On a large or outdoor track, I tend to prefer the MTC3 mainly for the reasons above.
On low grip, the MTC2R with carbon chassis is my preferred choice.

Did you weight it before you put it on? What's the weight difference to the stock one?

145grams

I'm finding this car tends to tweak pretty easily even at the slightest taps; one side of the front end in particular changes droop settings easily. Are you guys doing anything to help bullet-proof this thing? Running on black carpet with plastic boards velcroed to the ground, so not much give. I've changed to the Xray servo saver most guys at my track are using, but open to other suggestions.

I find from all the triangle style upper links arms cars ( more Ridgid than the one link luckely) I ridden, my mtc3 Is one of the less prone to change after a ride, maby by the triangle camber link vs stiff upperarms that have less flex. Off coarse when you clip a few times a board it's slightly off. But that's normal on all Touring Cars.
When I clip something after the ride I check everything from droop to ride hight and and every in between.
Those cars are not made to sett and forget . They need afther every run, check ups, to drive them consistent

Check the arm to make sure it hasn't got any internal delamination that's causing inconsistent flexing.

Make sure you have the upper arms assembled correctly so that when you bring them together they can easily snap on to the upper ball studs atop the bulkheads. If you have the hinged upper arm the opposite way they just almost make it so you can snap them on with a little effort but it won't be right. Hope that makes sense ...

just curious how did you like the steel chassis and what surface did you run it on

Well if it's droop on just one corner you have to sort of diagnose what happened. Witness mark the grub screw. Also just for this case that corner measure droop like you normally do and then arbitrarily measure droop a different way. I'm thinking maybe it's the ball cups in the lower arm. If they move up and down it will mess up the droop.

I also recently picked up a new droop gauge from PowerHobby. It comes with the small wheels you thread on, pair of 10mm blocks and a two-sided gauge. I used to use the Avid circle gauge, but measuring under the arm on my MTC2R I got erratic numbers. I am really liking this new way of measuring the droop. The only issue I can see is if folks post setups and have a different brand of gauge. The PowerHobby and T-Works gauge comes with 18.50mm wheels that thread on. Buddy of mine has the Aerox gauge and he said his wheels measure 18.00mm so when comparing settings they are 0.25mm off from one another.

All of those droop gauges measure to the axle centerline, so even though the wheel size is different the value is still represented from the bottom of the chassis to the centerline.
(Please correct me if I'm wrong, but that's how i was told it all worked.)