I only have the CVD available at the moment.

Moving the rear hubs all the way back (to max LWB) might give you some improvement, at the expense of traction out from tighter corners.

I was re watching Trish's videos he did during COVID and he was suggesting lengthening rear top link at outboard end. Slightly more roll, and no loss of forward drive. I did find the forward drive was ok but not as good as the B7, currently on mid long at the rear for wheelbase. Will consider both on Sunday and see how it goes.

Thanks.

Just realised I need a different C block, strange as I don't see why the laydown one wouldn't work on the layback, also a different spur gear cover is needed.

Any tips on taking the pills out of the C block, there is a hole in the C block but it's smaller than the hole in the pill so can't push it out. Am I missing something?

Sorted using pliers but there must be a better way as it scuffs the tiny ' markings a bit.

Seems the next cougar should be anytime…no? Rumors?

nah, new wheeler is first.

First race today with the LD3 and am really impressed how easy it is to place on the corners, always has more steering if you need it but the rear is still planted. I ran as per kit (slightly lighter oils as I am transitioning from AE oils) and the laydown trans sorted the on power understeer I was experiencing (first run I only had the layback available).

I came off after each race not really know what to change as I just didn't know how I could make it any better. On reflection I think I will try moving the battery forward a little as rear grip and forward traction was good.

Pleased to have converted.

I tried this on Sunday as had good balance and needed a little rotation when using new rear tyres. Worked a treat and was really quick (less than a minute) to do with the spacers that clip on 👍. Also moved the battery forward as rear traction was very good.

Took a break from rc for about 5years. Mostly a 1/8 racer but did a bit of 1/10 offroad and would like to give it another go. Local racing for me is all outdoor, wet or semi grooved conditions. Used to start the day on a double dee's/ribbed fronts and would run dirtwebs or similar for the mains. Was thinking about getting the LD3D. Always ran TLR except for a short stint with a b6 and Hb d216 that was a struggle. Had both the 22 3.0 and 4.0 working really well outdoors. Only did a few packs with the 5.0 before I sold everything. Does anyone have an experience with the LD3D on medium grip dirt? Would this be an easy transition coming from TLR cars? Ran my old 22 2.0 rear motor car the other day and it made me want to race 1/10 again. Thanks

No personal experience of dirt or even low grip with the LD3 but it went well at the world on low grip dirt a few years ago, here's Broc Champlin's setup who came 3rd.

I am thinking about getting a LD3S. What are the best bang for buck upgrades for the kit over the base kit?

Machined pistons, stock ones aren't great and machined ones are very reasonably priced here in the UK.

Looking at the Manual I assumed the wide and narrow pivot options on the rear hub tied in with the two pivot options on the wishbone - i.e if you are using the wide pivot on the wishbone then the rear hub insert is set with the hole on the outside



How I have looked at a couple of cars running at our track and also how my car was set up when it arrived, the hub insert is with the hole on the inside but still using the outer pivot on the wishbone, making it extra wide. Is this a common setup? It's difficult to tell from all the setup sheets as it doesn't cover the width of the insert just the height.

Thanks in advance
Pete
Update: looks like manual for D model has extra wide setting and narrow as kit setting for the M and S model.

Do you have a part number for those pistons?

Also, I only run 17.5. I see others running 17.5 but with the aluminum chassis rather than the carbon one. Are they running the full mod spec car or just a S with the AL chassis?

Here you go:

I used these and drilled out the rears to 1.8, there also tapered ones available which are yellow.