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Old 11-14-2024 | 11:20 AM
  #481  
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seems fair but willing to do 2 for $30 shipped?

Edit: just put me down for 2. I’m sure for you the more the better

Last edited by staiguy; 11-14-2024 at 07:12 PM.
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Old 11-14-2024 | 12:13 PM
  #482  
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I meant how many, not how much.. how much is partially driven by the amount that can be sold, i.e. made..
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Old 11-14-2024 | 04:31 PM
  #483  
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Originally Posted by clinttredway
I meant how many, not how much.. how much is partially driven by the amount that can be sold, i.e. made..
I’ll take one if the price is reasonable.
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Old 11-18-2024 | 06:01 AM
  #484  
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Default RE: SPur Adapter Files

Sorry Guys,

I've been away from the forums for a while.

I'm including a Google Drive link to the Solidworks file I created as well a STEP file in case you don't use Solidworks.

I was unable to do it as an attachment for some reason.

Hope this helps you guys out. I just haven't had time to make any. Work has consumed too much of my time.

LD3 Spur Adapter

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Old 11-19-2024 | 03:26 AM
  #485  
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Hi Folks, building an LD3M to follow up on my B6.4 (which I have mixed emotions about...)_ as my first Schmacker offroader since my Club10 decades ago

Some things still confusing to me in typical UK fashion:
- Does the stock 2-part servo arm do a decent job vs an alloy one? I couldnt find much slop in the assembly, and I am skeptical about the supposedly higher responsiveness of alloy vs. plastics. and the stock part is paid for already and on the car
- Do you use the stock monobloc plastic linkage between the arm and bellcrank?

Other than this, very nice build so far. I have to do the rear, electronics, body (sounds like B6.4 is a direct fit which will make my life easier!) and off to raceday it goes the following saturday without even a warm-up run.

Cheers folks!
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Old 11-19-2024 | 03:52 AM
  #486  
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This should help you through what bits to add to a new build

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Old 11-19-2024 | 05:11 AM
  #487  
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Originally Posted by Lonestar
Hi Folks, building an LD3M to follow up on my B6.4 (which I have mixed emotions about...)_ as my first Schmacker offroader since my Club10 decades ago

Some things still confusing to me in typical UK fashion:
- Does the stock 2-part servo arm do a decent job vs an alloy one? I couldnt find much slop in the assembly, and I am skeptical about the supposedly higher responsiveness of alloy vs. plastics. and the stock part is paid for already and on the car
- Do you use the stock monobloc plastic linkage between the arm and bellcrank?

Other than this, very nice build so far. I have to do the rear, electronics, body (sounds like B6.4 is a direct fit which will make my life easier!) and off to raceday it goes the following saturday without even a warm-up run.

Cheers folks!
I use the 1 piece link between the servo arm and the drag link.. I suggest at least getting the aluminum drag link as it has 2 positions for the link to tailor the feel of the steering.. always always get an aluminum servo horn.. the aerox one fits perfectly although I have used a flat protek one as well.
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Old 11-19-2024 | 07:13 AM
  #488  
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Originally Posted by Headling
This should help you through what bits to add to a new build

https://youtu.be/dMvI2JJwvXE?si=Y2LX9zxLBbjha4ac
Thanks Mark. Lovely decked out car - mine will be as close to stock as possible for budget reasons though and the fact that I litterally run offroad 3x/yr - hard to justify the bling under these conditions.

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Old 11-19-2024 | 07:18 AM
  #489  
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Originally Posted by clinttredway
I use the 1 piece link between the servo arm and the drag link.. I suggest at least getting the aluminum drag link as it has 2 positions for the link to tailor the feel of the steering.. always always get an aluminum servo horn.. the aerox one fits perfectly although I have used a flat protek one as well.
Thank you for the comments.

I unfortunately didn't stock up on another alloy arm. although all my other cars have one, typically to replace a wimpy OEM servo saver. I am aware than a clamping, alloy arm is always a better choice for racing. However in this case, I am stuck with either the stock plastic bit, or express-ship an alloy servo arm.

Is there anything blatantly wrong about the stock servo arm for instance in terms of slop? The bling I can do without and the rigidity looks pretty spectacular for a plastic part to be honest. And, again, no spring in there. I understand an alloy clamping arm is always a better option - but is the plastic arm so useless that I shouldn't even think about taking it out of the plastic bag? Thanks.
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Old 11-19-2024 | 08:01 AM
  #490  
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I've used the kit servo arm on occasion and it's been fine, don't recall any additional slop but I'm sure there is a little, not enough to worry about. I always prefer a clamping servo horn but in a pinch the stock one will suffice.
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Old 11-19-2024 | 08:18 AM
  #491  
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco73
I've used the kit servo arm on occasion and it's been fine, don't recall any additional slop but I'm sure there is a little, not enough to worry about. I always prefer a clamping servo horn but in a pinch the stock one will suffice.
Thank you.
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Old 11-19-2024 | 09:25 AM
  #492  
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I recently switched from AE 6.4 to Schumacher LD2 with all the LD3 upgrades. Basically the only difference is the transmission and the chassis is just wider at the back, but other than that it’s identical to the LD3. Compared to the 6.4, the Schumacher is a much nicer car imo. Not nearly as much slop in the steering or suspension as the AE cars tend to have, the diff setup is 10x better since it doesn’t leak every other race like the Associated, and I find it’s much easier to work on, especially the front end. As far as the driving itself goes, I started with the Carbon chassis but ended up going to the Aluminum one. Carbon chassis I feel just flexes and transfers too much weight for the high grip carpet track I race at, so I was always trying to avoid traction roll. Once I switched to the aluminum chassis, the car was really really good from the get-go and I could drive it much harder than I could with the car on chassis. Instantly it felt more stuck and connected to the track than my AE car ever did. I would absolutely recommend Schumacher over AE, especially now cuz the B7 doesn’t impress me much at all. We have a few AE team drivers with B7’s and I would beat them in the A Main half the time with my 6.4, and I only started racing a year ago. Also every big race I watch, all the cars that win are either Xray or Schumacher… and Champlin has been on fire lately with his LD3. If I was going to buy a brand new car, I would definitely go for a LD3 or the new Xray if I was you.
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Old 11-19-2024 | 11:37 AM
  #493  
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Originally Posted by Lonestar
Thank you for the comments.

I unfortunately didn't stock up on another alloy arm. although all my other cars have one, typically to replace a wimpy OEM servo saver. I am aware than a clamping, alloy arm is always a better choice for racing. However in this case, I am stuck with either the stock plastic bit, or express-ship an alloy servo arm.

Is there anything blatantly wrong about the stock servo arm for instance in terms of slop? The bling I can do without and the rigidity looks pretty spectacular for a plastic part to be honest. And, again, no spring in there. I understand an alloy clamping arm is always a better option - but is the plastic arm so useless that I shouldn't even think about taking it out of the plastic bag? Thanks.
I can't remember if the kit servo arm is plastic or not.. on carpet, the plastic ones tend to strip pretty quick...
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Old 11-19-2024 | 12:13 PM
  #494  
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Plastic is fine on carpet. Note that if you want to run the the steering arms in the inner hole on the bulkhead, the aluminum servo arm is required.
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Old 11-19-2024 | 12:25 PM
  #495  
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not the servo horn, the steering arms and drag link yes..
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