can you explain how to update the LCD firmware and what is the difference from the previous firmware?

Copy files to the SD card and flash on the LCD. Dont go into the ESC settings, just cycle through the first menu. No idea on changes. Its changed from 1.03 to 1.04.

So we copy the files on to SD card, plug it into the program card, then connect it to ESC and upload the new firmware into the ESC?
Do we also need to upgrade the firmware of the card for the new ESC firmware to work?
When trying to Update Firmware, it says File Error.
If I mess up, can the earlier firmware be uploaded back into the ESC?
Pardon the ignorance as Surpass online support is non-existent, almost nothing helpful available from them.

I did update the program box first of all so I cant confirm whether its essential to update to allow the new ESC firmware to flash or not but for me, I did these steps:
Copied LCD Firmware 1.04 and ESC Firmware 1.11 to the MicroSD card in a folder called 'Firmware'
Connected to ESC, turned on etc
Flashed Program Box to 1.04 (cant remember if I turned off/on but cant be a bad thing to do)
Flashed ESC to 1.11
All flashed without any errors, for me at least.

I was on ESC version 1.05 before and LCD version 1.03. I havent tried downgrading to be honest.

Didn't work on my side, the card still says File Error when I go into Load TF File.
After downloading & unzipping the folder from the link above, I copied the 3 firmware into microSD card & plug it into the card. Connect the 4 pin wires to the ESC and power it up. Only get File Error when tried to update LCD firmware, and same for ESC firmware.
Maybe the card isn't in a correct format, or the SD slot on the program card itself is faulty... I've kinda given up on trying to do updating now, so long as the ESC still work. This the 3rd Surpass ESC I've bought and will also be the last. They do work OK, just the lack of support/help is frustrating.
As for the few Surpass sensored motors I have running now, they've been pretty reliable.

Same on my end, didnt work. Can you share what micro sd card class did you use? Since on your side it is working fine. Im thinking that the class 10 micro sd card is not working on the programmer card

Its an old 8GB class 4 MicroSD, formatted to FAT32. Usually on older stuff you want to try to stay 32GB and below or atleast make sure its FAT32, sometimes it'll default to NTFS or ExFAT.

Actually one key part, which I totally forgot about, I just blinded did it when at like 6:30am before going racing for the day The files need to be a folder called 'Firmware' I'd imagine this is the key. I'll update any posts above to save confusion.

It actually worked!
Creating a new folder and named it "Firmware" in the SD card, then putting the 3 files into it does the trick.
Amazes me how you came up with an idea like this... can't be a wild guess???
Anyways, I didn't went ahead to update either firmware for fear I cannot get back the original ones if something goes wrong. Risk of bricking the perfectly fine ESC is too much for me.
Thank you nonetheless for the guidance.

So I have the 150A version of this. I'm new to the hobby (converting from nitro to Brushless) can I ask why there are 2 T connectors out of the ESC? Is it for 2 batteries? What do I do if only connecting one? As I presume it'll leave the other live otherwise?

It's for connecting 2 batteries. If you only connect one, nothing will happen, since it's a series connection.

Found this exceptional work done by JSANPE while searching for some code on GitHub. Its very well written and open source allowing for easier firmware crossovers. I sent p.m. on GitHub, waiting for answer.

https://github.com/jsanpe/hobbysurpassemu

If using one battery you can use a "jumper" which will make a connection between the two wires of the open second battery connector by plugging the jumper into the unused battery connector. Basically shorting the + & - of the other battery connector, the two connectors are run in series allowing you to connect say two 2s for a final of 4s collectively, or two 3s for a final of 6s collectively. This works well with RCz that use two batteries giving the RC better balance weight wise, and also better "C" discharge capability, it wont increase or double your "mAh" that will remain the same but your voltage and "C" rating will double. You need to use two batteries that are equal and the same... preferably two LiPos that are the same mAh, same "C" , same model, same brand, and same Cell Count, and bought at the same time and used the same amount over time (i number lik/same batteries and keep track of their use rotating them each time to keep them relatively the same, although I try to keep dual packs used with ESCs with dual connectors as dual packs and not ever use them individually, this will keep them from deviating in spec as much as possible).