What servo horn is everyone using? This one?? Or can you use a protek one?

AEROX AX009 Alloy Servo Arm

I can check when I get home. It might be the protek one but either way the servo arm needs to be kinda slim otherwise you get clearance issues. I had to file down a decent chunk in order to get it to clear all the way.

I checked and I couldnt tell if it was a protek on or not. EIther way the servo horn was too big where the pivot ball goes and I had to file it down. The ax009 has a thin profile with a slanted edge to give it extra clearance. I had to make that on mine :P

Thanks!

Is the ball diff thrust assembly the same as AE or TLR? Or is it unique to Schumacher?

Well, finally got a chance to run my LD3 hybrid thingy again on Friday on a wet clay track. Since last time out I swapped to a carbon chassis (KC -5mm), added the 5mm front end spacer and moved the rear hubs all the way forward. What a difference, it felt so much better and was actually a lot of fun to drive. Steering is still pretty aggressive and because of belt tension it feels like there is extra drag brake, but once you realize that and adjust it was actually very stable, tossable and as long as inputs stayed smooth it was happy. Since the trans ratio is only 2.1:1 (vs B6/7 2.6:1 or LD3 2.53:1) it wasn't as punchy out of corners, to be expected but I was still able to clear even the track's big triple with a bit more of a run up. Still some more tweaking to do but definitely a big step in the right direction.

Question. I have about a 2 to 3-mm gap on the rear springs between the spring and the top of the spring retainer. How do you remove this gap? This gap is apparent when the rear wheels are off the ground. My ride height is 14mm, black springs, 450 oil, 2 hole - 1.8 pistons, and the shock shaft is 28mm between the eyelet and bottom of the shock. But if turn the collars down to remove the gap my ride height increases...Thoughts?

The gap is normal for a low ride height car

Wouldn't this gap make the car a little less unstable landing off jumps until the spring engages with the collar?

Thank you for the update and for describing your setup.

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How much better is an ld3 compared to ld2. Some people love there ld2 better. Just curious

I don't have both to compare but I did convert my LD2 to an LD3 and I found the LD3 (even with a setup as close to my LD2 as possible) was not as aggressive. Now, keep in mind the tuning window of an LD2 ranges from really aggressive to hyper aggressive lol The LD3 can be made more safe to drive, more like a box stock B7D setup, which is pretty good right out of the box and is fairly forgiving all around. But, the LD3 can be made pretty freakin aggressive as well, there is a larger tuning window, more adjustments that can be made. One major difference is you cannot get a 0 degree front castor block with the LD3, just 2.5 and 5. The LD2 had 0 and 5. So if someone likes the feel of their LD2 and tries an LD3 it's quite possible they will be more comfortable with a really aggressive car and need to put more time (and money) into an LD3 to get it to that point. Both are great cars, the LD2 just keeps you on your toes a little more lol

the 2.5 added some much needed aggression lol. Maybe not hyper but its in my range. I do notice some b7's can take the same tight aggressive line. Not a lot but some. I did also go go for the +5. chassis and lower steering rack ballstud. I guess its "easy" to drive but has a lot of mid cornering.

Ouch but it still runs well enough. I think it was when I got on a pipe and slide it into the brick wall . I wanted to try taking out the +5 insert but now I dont wanna touch this thing until I get a replacement in hand. Or if I ignore and forgot about it, its like it never happened right, right? I gotta race this Friday

This part does break some times, I always keep one on hand. I think the last time I was hit while I was flipped upside down. You can race with it but I think it will start to loosen up and get loose on you.