Keep in mind, you are quoting Randy's post from 2 years ago...

Sounds just like CoreRC Pace 45R v Hobbywing 120A 1S in GT12, speeds the same at the end of the straight, one's just a bit quicker at getting their.

Does anybody know how to identify the ORCA speed control from a couple years ago that has built in dynamic timing in blinky mode?

Wasn't that a sw issue? You'd probably get better response on the ORCA forum or send Keith Yu a pm.

That was a software issue and as far as I know they were never sold and that software was never released anywhere. Keith and a couple of ORCA guys ran them at the nats on accident as he thought the software had been approved is my understanding. They served a year and a half ban from ROAR events and approvals for the mistake.

EA

Did Tekin get in any trouble when the v203 was found to have dynamic timing in it ? Boy I remember the weekend or 2 of racing . our gearing /end bell timing adjustments was changing dramatically for the previous version .

I see.. thanks for the clarification.

Well that would be a book, not a chart and I will not come on here and say I was any sort of brushed motor tuner master. I did ok tuning my own motors but would likely bow out to some of the true masters, some of which are no longer with us such as the legend Mike Reedy.

There is an article I've been helping one of the magazines with lately. It's quite in depth and I'll try to post up the info once it's published. Or at the very least share what month issue it will be in.

What is the opinion on this in 2024? Do you really get anything from a high end ESC when you only race in blinky mode?

I race with the Orca Stock Spec Totem and what I noticed is I have the same speed as high end speed controls. The difference I think is out of the turns there is more punch with a high end ESC. I was told that the high end speed controls have a lower IR.

The internal resistance of any modern speed control is effectively zero. 14 gauge wire is 2.6 milliohms per foot, so if an ESC has a resistance of 0.07 milliohms... well thats less resistance than the wire than it would take to go across the ESC.

Some ESC's list voltage drops across them at a given amperage, like 0.01 volts at 20 amps, but even that is a bit misleading about what is happening. In one inch of 14 gauge copper wire conducting 20 amps you would have a voltage drop of 0.01v.

The truth is that your soldering job means more to your performance than your model of blinky ESC.

So make sure to cut all your wires to length? Also what if you use 13g wire? I try to do 13 all around. 14 seems kinda thin at least for battery connection.

back to topic. The answer is still the same: simple yes they the same, but no, they different. The cheaper ones are usually 60amp vs the higher ends at 100+. Also the cheaper ones usually don’t have pwm settings. This lets you fine tune punch and brake frequencies. Cheaper ones are usually a 6amp bec, check your servo and see what the specs are and if you need a higher 7.4v bec. Last difference would probably be program cards. Cheaper usually is a simple program card or just set using the set button. More expensive ones usually have a Bluetooth or Wi-Fi adapter for easier changes AND able to read logs off the esc.

Orca Totem 100 amp minimum but the features are short of the OE Mark II top of line. Way control over punch and brakes.

The "amperage rating" on an ESC is not an measurement of its internal resistance, it's an indicator of how large the MOSFETs inside it are. The reason is complicated but basically semiconductor field effect transistors have resistances of nearly zero for electrical current until they have a certain amperage per cross section area of the FET when resistance jumps. A 120 amp ESC will have FETs twice as large as a 60 amp but will probably have the same or nearly the same internal resistance under normal operation with a motor drawing under 60 amps.

I know the "amperage rating" on an ESC is not an measurement of its internal resistance as I was simply stating.