Gigaplex, what helped me wrap my head around ELRS, is there are two communication channels. The first is ELRS between the TX and RX. The second is in the RX converting between ELRS and PWM

To oversimplify what happens within the RX, it converts radio waves to pulses on a wire. By using the wifi, you can match the PWM frequency to your servo and ESC.

ELRS was built to handle both close in racing, and long distance. So you get to adjust both packet rate and power. Power is simply how strong of a signal you are transmitting. So you should match the distance to your vehicle to the power level. (More is not always better.) Once a certain signal to noise ratio is reached, additional power can't make the signal better. I run dynamic on my drones, and I plan to test it out (once I get this cast off and can get back to the track).

Packet rate is where things get interesting. First it takes time for the signal to get from the TX to the RX. For longer distances you have to turn down the packet rate, so you only have one packet in flight. Without getting to technical, different rates support different modes and resolutions on the RX side. Since channels 1-4 are always full resolution, that goes beyond what is needed for racing. Here is where you have to rely on the ELRS LUA. In the LUA (press SYS button, then select ExpressLRS) the upper right has two numbers separated by a '/'. The first is the error rate, and the second is the packet rate. If your taking errors most likely you need to drop to a slower packet rate. From what I've seen with my drones, errors are outside interference (microwave, fluorescent lighting, etc.), and there's nothing you can do about it, but switch to a lower rate.

Thanks. Looks like ELRS firmware 3.3.0 doesn't have the servo frequency in there.

OK, looks like 1000 is the default setting.

You can definitely set the servo frequency with 3.3.0.
Wifi connection to the receiver may not work, so please try ELRS Lua on the transmitter.
With the radio and receiver connected,

SYS>TOOLS>ExpressLRS>Other Devices>”Your receiver”>Output Mapping

You can set the servo frequency for each channel with .

Got it, thanks!

I've been looking over this thread. I'm glad I found mention of this radio. I had been considering Futaba 4PM-Plus or the soon-to-be-released FlySky Noble NB4+. My main concern is latency / frame rate for racing, with a secondary wish that the radio be useful for things that might require more channels, at least lights and gear shift.

I am a big fan of open source. From my experience it's easy to underestimate how useful it can be to be able to fix problems with the firmware or add features after the manufacturer has stopped support or gone out of business. I also like the sound of ELRS. Proprietary standards are garbage and to me kind of ruin the whole RC industry.

I think I am going to get this radio.

My only concern is that some tracks may be conservative and find some reason to prohibit open source transmitters or something like that. I'm willing to take my chances I think. If a track doesn't want to support open source and the hacking scene, I probably don't want to play RC cars with them. If the concern is cheating, a determined cheater could hack the firmware of many radios, or install custom electronics that go unnoticed, etc. I just want to race TT-02 stock and if people are taking the low end so seriously they need to try to cheat that is sad, and no reason to exclude open source products.

The internet wouldn't be where it is today without open standards and open source. Proprietary protocols and operating systems: no thanks.

wifi connection still works and you can change pwm on each channel on 3.3.0 through wifi. not sure why it wouldnt work for you.

I don't have a lot of experience with RC, but coming from game pads and mid/high end joysticks, a joystick that doesn't have hall effect is basically garbage. Game pads suffer terribly from joystick drift. Hall effect sensors do not cost all that much, and just as if I'd expect them on a $150+ joystick, I'd expect them on a $300+ radio, if not $200+ (granting that a radio is not just the controls).

I've got an MT12 now and it has made a very positive impression on me so far. It's clear the designers of the MT12, EdgeTX, and ExpressLRS are highly technically competent and there do no seem to be many niggling "why didn't they think of this?" issues that one often gets with major commercial products. All too often the big players intentionally omit features that would not cost any more just to distinguish product ranges from each other, and that sort of thing, or are extremely slow (like as much as a decade) to adapt to emerging technologies and features (say a radio having USB-C instead of micro-USB, having USB charging, working as a flash drive, and working as a USB game controller).

EP1/EP2 compatible receivers can be used as internal TX modules(#1457).
There is an RF port connector on the MT12 main board, so just connect it here.
It's easy to do. However, it is not possible to flash the firmware on the radio, so it must be removed when flashing.

1. Use EP1/EP2 compatible RX as internal TX module
2. Use WEB Flasher to UART flash "Generic ESP8285 Full-duplex 2.4GHz RX as TX" to RX
3. Connect RX to the RF port of MT12

RX_____RF port(MT12)
GND ---- - (minus)
+5v ---- +(plus)
TX ------ RX
RX ------ TX

A genuine internal ELRS module costs $55, but this method costs about $15 ($0 if you have a spare receiver).

Switch B was not easy to operate, so I modified it to a lever type.
It can be operated with a light touch, making it easier to use.

Hey everyone!

Is there a way to get abs set up on this?

For my miniz cars, not having this functionality is a bit of a dealbreaker

I have this functionality on my flysky nobles and it works great.

May I ask how this performs in direct sunlight vs the original screen?

They are talking about ABS over on rcgroups. Post 603 has the settings in play, but not how to do it completely.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...e-Radio/page41

I've had the radio for a few weeks now, and I think fear of breaking something is stopping me from experimenting.

I want to build a model from the ground up - is there a way to factory reset if I get it all wrong?

Simply download the SD card contents from the RadioMaster website and overwrite your SD card.
If you back up the current state of your SD card, you can return to it at any time.

Isn’t there multiple model memory; can’t you just make a new model and experiment and leave your previous model alone? You should have a bunch of possible models to choose from I’d imagine. Unless you’ve filled them all up and still want extra in which case yeah backing up the SD card makes sense.