I have a sct410.3 waiting for me for about a year and excited because finally about to get it. Heard the rear green springs did the trick on nosediving, but is this the other part of equation to fix it?

Castle mamba X and HW 4300 KV (3660) and power hobby 8000ma (100C)

If that's a 2s 8000 pack you'll want to run a 15, 16, or 17 tooth pinion depending on the track size. Your truck would be really slow with anything smaller than a 14 tooth.

If I ran anything higher than the 14 that's on there this thing will melt down!

I'm finally going to get around to building my .3 but I was going to build it as a 2WD. My local track only races 2WD SCT on the carpet track so that was what I was going to build it to run on. I came across the CJ Hernandez build blog post from about 5 years ago but I was just wondering if anybody else has done this and if there are any tips or tricks?

What are people doing with the shocks? Standard cap? Vented cap? Emulsion build? What are people going with here? I like the emulsion shocks on my eb410, not looking forward to drilling a tiny hole in the bleeder!

No bladder...drill em....easy to do as not much material their....can do it with a body reamer......

Bladder.

I bought a set of DE Racing SpeedLine Plus SC wheels, says Tekno SCT410 on the label, and they rub the steering spindle - ball link cap head screw just a little. Part number DER-PS4-LW. Suggestions for other wheels? Edit: I found the wheel list at the start of the thread.

How will removing a washer affect bump steer? Edit: Just removed the two washers on top of each screw, this dropped the screw enough for proper clearance. Just leaving this here in case someone has a similar situation.

Thanks!

Replacing cap head screw with button head screw gives more clearance. Washers on top of steering link won't effect bump steer but the washers between the link and spindle do. Leaving out top washers might cause clearance issues on other end of screw.

Pardon me, but someone just posted recently about flipping front and rear diffs orientation, and then reversing the center diff/motor direction to keep pebbles from destroying spur gear. I have never heard of doing this to one's ride to prevent pebble munching occurrences. I can't really see it being beneficial which direction the spur/pinion gear is going.

Is this diff reversing such a thing?

Never heard of anyone doing this, but in theory it could probably somewhat protect spur/pinion from debris coming from a certain direction - to a degree. I doubt it's really useful. Plus, with sensored motors (and their static end bell timing) there's no really useful way to reverse the whole thing. I simply bought a Tekno 1/8th scale buggy body as dust cover beneath the SCT body (damn truck is so heavy, those few grams didn't matter )

What tires are you running for outdoor orange clay...hard pack , rutted and loose on top? Thanks

So I'm trying the recommended outdoor setup. I was wondering why they want to run so much thicker diff oils. Obviously they know something I don't cuz most guys at my track are running 774-775-553-554. Most are also running the tlr there are only three technos but I'm not friendly with the guys so I don't know what they're running. I've been struggling finding a setup that I'm comfortable with on this truck. It doesn't feel like it's in the track it feels like it's driving on the track and will lose traction suddenly all at once doesn't really jump the way I would like it to. It's either nose down or if I stay on the throttle it backflips so I kind of have to play with it in the air. I'm hoping the recommended setup will help calm the truck down make it feel more planted and I can push it harder. Any insights would be great thanks guys