Are both 3.1 versions coming with gear diffs and same chassis?

My Impression is that:

- DTM3.1 will come with ball diff like the DTM3.
- Chassis for DTM3.1 appears to be same length as CAL3 from what the yokomo website is saying, CAL3.1 is even longer

Cars are showing up on Amain for back order / Pre-order!

Ordered using amain BF sale!

This guys knows how to hack the pre order to get that deal, lol.

I am personally just keeping my CAL3 and going to convert it from what all I am seeing on it. I already can get the complete back part and shocks now for it. Just would need the little changes in the front and chassis. Now I will have tuning options if needed with the parts from the CAL3 and 3.1.

So what's the main handling characteristic of going to the 3.0mm shock shaft (3.1), from the 3.3mm shock shaft of the previous version? Are the rest of the shock specs the same and just the shaft size diameter is changing?

For the handling its supposed to offer smoother shock action and i think a more plush ride. Also some weight savings too.

There are changes that are internal to the shocks from what I am seeing as well, so its not as simple as just swapping some stuff around internally I believe to use the previous gen bodies.

Parts list has been added to the main site!

Parts List DTM3.1/CAL3.1

interesting if I am reading this right is sounds like the 69T spur is going to be included with the DTM3.1 .

Looking forward to seeing a page specific to the CAL3.1

CAL3.1 page added:

https://teamyokomo.com/product/b-yz2cal31/

DTM3.1 Manual is out:

https://teamyokomo.com/downloadfiles...ion_Manual.pdf

Just got mine... Can't wait to start the build, but just by the looks of it, its much like all other Yokomo kits I've had. Parts are packaged by numbered bags, Machining is top notch and the plastics are pretty much the same as the DTM3. I'd say typical Yokomo quality.

Martin Paradis

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts. I am curious if the issue with the stock steering rack not going full lock has been corrected.

If you put these bumpsteer shims underneath the steering rack instead of above it resolves this problem, or at least makes it much better. It gives more clearance between the ballcup and the bellcrank at full lock. Just increase the shims at the outer steering ballstud by 1mm to make the bumpsteer the same as before. You can also leave them out completely, but you'd have to swap to shorter screws at the same time or they can stick through too much and touch the servo linkage when turning right.