Yes, the MG parts have been visible in the DB for a while. As for availability, I don’t think I’ve ever seen them listed as “in stock” (likely because they haven’t completed manufacture of them yet?)…

With regard to them being GP parts? Well, I’ve looked into the 750’s metal gears before, and while they are the same size, the diameter of the cross pin is different between the two, which means that the internals of the diff case must be different to accommodate each respective cross-pin assembly. I didn’t go into detail with looking at the outdrives, but those are likely different too, so probably no shared parts there either.

I, most recently ordered the 802605 gear set to see if they would work. The cross pins are definitely a larger diameter, so they would fit the old V1 diff case, but the crown gears are a larger diameter which run into fit issues in the cases. They do have a back cut for pin retention for the outdrives opposed to the early screw versions. All in all after a lot of measuring and trial fitting, this was a failure all around, but had to try it. I fortunately still have a couple MG V1 diffs from the S411 which I run in my mod car. I guess, and I have no idea if its true, but I hear that the XRAY gears will fit the Serpent case, but not sure if they break down the same as the Serpent gears, which seems to create chocolate milk in the case after several runs without rebuild. That is my next thing to try.

Huh I think the whole diff is in magnesium. I bought the one for 750e and it is the case. By the way, it is a little bit different, wider, different offset. I don't think it could be adapted.
I'm not sure what is the advantage of magnesium alloy over aluminium alloy, but other brands are proposing metal diff, so why not Serpent/Arrowmax?

Magnesium alloys are lighter than aluminum, but it’s about as strong, so it ends up being less rotating mass while not sacrificing strength.

And I love the white parts style. I would love to have a MG spool to complete it lol

Hello guys I have a few questions. I re-read the topic and I must admit my summer on T4 has convinced me to go with X20 21 for winter at least.
I'm assembling the car right now, and even if the front knuckles are still not very inspiring, I think it will be good to try them at least.
That put aside two questions:
- What is the durability of the BB DCJ, especially on crash?
- I've some hop ups from my X20, and I wanted to use them on the X20'21, especially the floating steering. On the X20, you put the part hanging over the spool hole in the chassis, to be able to fix the longitudinal stiffener. But on the X20'21, if I do the same, the steering is way to much advanced. It seems I have to mount it on the chassis (on the 5 first holes). So how will the stiffener be fixed then?

Another small information, I've mount the Axon Wheel hub axles from my T4 on the car. In the rear it is a direct fit, but in the front with the new front design, I had to file them a little bit (0.3mm). Still a good option from my POV.

I can’t answer all of your questions (I overhauled my X20 to a ‘21, so no BB drivetrain), but will what I can:

- Some of the biggest differences between the two chassis are in and around the front. As such it looks like revised the handing steering mount between the two - primarily because the holes on the chassis are rearranged a bit to accommodate new parts like the revised Servo mount. I was told by a team driver last year that the hanging steering mount needed to be revised for the ‘21. Curiously enough, it’s interesting that 401863 alone doesn’t appear in the optional list for the ‘21 (only in the manual) - it is only available as part of the 401964 and 66 fr brace sets. Anyway, I was thinking of ordering one of these this week, so maybe I’ll be able to update and tell you for sure.
- the early front steering hubs were a little weak right at the point where the carbon steering arm mounts to it. Serpent has since beefed that area up a little. If you are not sure of which ones you have, I suggest you buy a spare set (always good to have anyway) and compare the two. You’ll easily be able to tell the additional bit of material on the new ones if you have the old set

As I mentioned above, I am using my original X20 drivetrain with my ‘21 modifications, although I made a few other changes:

- I updated my front DJC’s with the 401903 DJC set, along with the narrower 5x10x3 bearings that go inside the hub - this made the front movement much more free!
- I replaced the aluminum rear bones with the steel ones, since I ended up running Mod. I am running stirrups all around.

Overall, I like the setup, and while it was complicated and involved quite a few parts (yet still cost less than a new ‘21 kit), I’m happy with how it came out.

I run the BB DJC but with modifications, and the durability is very good. as you can see from the attached picture the front of my car is as I have run it now with very good durability. I will go thru all the mods of the car.
As you can see, I have trimmed the upper and lower arms so that I can run a thin nyloc nut on the bottom of the arm and a flanged nyloc on the upper arm. The trimming is done so there is a little clearance for the steering hubs ability to rotate for steering. With these nuts and the Tworks titanium ball studs the car has more durability and adjustments stay in place a little better.

On these DJC, I have changed out the aluminum coupler to the 401995 Steel DJC. I still run the aluminum on my other car, but find that with all the articulation going on in that joint they start to sloop out a little. With either set I have started to shrink wrap them, which has helped to keep all the DJC parts together, as in a wall hit with extreme steering angle its possible to pop the c-clip, and possibly ejecting the bearing. I would recommend this for all DJC users.

I changed out the front roll bar mount assembly as, again the steering can sometimes pop the rollbar holder off the bar which makes the car handle badly. The parts I used for this are 401391 Anti Rollbar Ball and 411207 Balljoint 4.5 short. This eliminates the plastic holder and gives a solid aluminum piece to tighten to the bar.

In the upper arm mounts in the front, I have found that occasionally with a board hit it will sweep the top arm back slightly which then makes the car pull to one side or another. So to be able to get these a little tighter I replaced the 3mm button head screws with 3mm cap screws, which use a 2.5mm driver. I will also make sure the front bulkheads are spaced properly to which I have a small aluminum block that was milled to fit between them. You can tell when the bulkheads are tweaked as the top deck screws are off and the holes don't line up correctly, which in turn can tweak the top deck. You can tell when the top arm is off as the upper arm mount is not square to the lower bulkhead. Its just one of those things that make the car very consistent and predictable.

I run a Axial servo saver AX31463 on the car with a 401372 Servo Lever, this combo work well as the servo saver is 19mm long and the lever drops the leverage point down for a straighter link angle which gives it a better feel, its a more linear feel.

Because the new steering hubs have been beefed up the also drop the steering levers, this will effect the ackerman and bump steer of the car, so to equal out the drop height of the steering arm, I have changed out the 110409 2mm spacer under the 401849 steering lever to a 1mm spacer. Even with the lowered steering rack there is still good belt clearance.

On the steering rack U run a longer grub screw that goes below the drag link, this acts as a steering stop that goes against the steering lever and stops steering over rotation and possible steering lock.

I run DBR steering levers, which use a similar bolt pattern to the older X20 steering blocks, this enable 3 different mount points for different ackerman settings and eliminates the need for excessive spacers on the drag link.

Also using a DBR 1.6mm top deck and using a single screw in the front to get a nice steering feel.

The back of the car has been modified. I use the stock lower arm, but its trimmed back so its flush across the arm, the little bump out is removed. This allows me to run the 401810 Steering Block on the back of the car. With those steering blocks you can now use the front upper arm in the back. This makes the upper arm longer and changes the roll feel of the car. I use the 401815 holder in the front and back of the car.

I run the 401951 Med hard chassis, and in the back I use the 401913 Chassis brace.

This has worked very well for me on CRC black carpet, from medium to high traction.

Clearly there is an issue with the floating steering support:

About BB DCJ, it seems that you glue them, is that right? I've used some shrinkable wrap on mine. I think it will be enough...

I've seen that the BB are available in a pack, but what about the c-clips?

What is the issue you speak of with the floating steering support?

The only time I have used the floating steering support was on the solid hard chassis X20, the X20'21 I am not sure if it fits, but I think it does. I personally don't like the feel of the car with the floating mount, and also the X20'21 nose section is reconfigured so I don't think its necessary. I do know that you can run the independent steering setup along with the 5 hole bar stiffener (401870) like the one used in the back of the car, the screw hole spacing is the same in the front as the back. This is a better option I feel, although I find that you get a better response by using the graphite dog bone brace (401910) across the top deck in the front back screw holes.

The BB DJC are shrink wrapped, glue would make a big mess and a lot of work when a rebuild is required.

The c-clips are available in 10 packs (110312). if your in a bind the clips that Awesomatix use will work, although they are very slightly larger, but they will work.

The issue there is that normally (at least on the 2020 version), the hole you can see between the two balljoints, should be hanging in the big hole, so you can attach the front chassis brace. The floating steering (SER401863) is listed as a '21 compatible option and there is a new '21 front chassis brace. You seems to say that we have to use the same part as in the rear (SER401870).
There is an updated kit for that (SER401966), how should it be mounted?

Thanks for the c-clips reference.

The floating steering mount remains the same between both cars. The reason you cannot see the balljoints is because the chassis cutout is smaller, thus part of the reason why the 20'21 car is stiffer in that section. This is the reason why the (401963) has been changed to fill the different configured chassis hole cutout. You still have to mount the floating steering mount with the last hole over hanging the chassis plate, enabling one screw hole for the attachment of the 401963, same as when you mount the front 401865 part, which allows access to one screw hole for the 401963 to mount to.

No, what I am saying is, that you can use 401870 in conjunction with the stock steering setup, this will stiffen the chassis in the front, you can also shift the 401870 forward or back in the front of the car, as well as mount with the one screw hole overhang, which allows you to use the 401963 and the front mount. This means you can run the chassis mounted steering levers, NOT the floating assembly, but still stiffen the chassis if required.

Ok I got the thing with the normal steering.

But I still disagree with the floating one. I've seen that the chassis hole is smaller, but if I try to mount the floating steering as it was on the X20, the steering is blocked by lower arms AND the ackerman is stupid lol

You can see on this picture how it is mount now, I cannot advance the steering more.

This is my floating mount in the X20 car, the balljoints are over the arm mounts quite a bit. The ball links just clear the arm pivots but it is very close.

That is why I had these made for me.

I don't know why you don't want to trust me. I just mounted the thing one hole ahead and the steering is not moving, it is rubbing the lower arms and the droop screws.