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Old 06-27-2021 | 03:18 AM
  #46  
t@n
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Hi, My axial ryft esc can not turn on after being cleaned. There is no funtion sign. Have you guys experience this before? really appreciate your help.
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Old 06-27-2021 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Timmahh
What's everyone's thoughts on Shock Oils now that you've had your rig for a bit?

I want to rebuild these ones on this Ryft I picked up and looking for some thoughts from your use.

Not many hills in my area, but there are some. So I wont be on them too much. More Bashing, rocking, and some lower speed crawling and trail running, some river bed stuff maybe as the Damns that failed due to the Ignorance of my States Attorney General here in Michigan last year has opened up a lot of riverbed area that used to be bigger rivers and lakes just a few miles west of me. Had I been just 10 miles west of my current home, it likely would have been washed away last year when the dam failed.

Anyways, lots of new riverbed to play in now.

Who used the vanquish Yeti XL Sway bar for their Ryft? How long of a piece of 3m Piano wire did you need to make the new cross bar?
I found Sway Bar Bushing I can print on Thingiverse for the rack mounts on the rig, just need to know how long to cut my wire so when the Vanquish Swaybar shows up i can install it?
Running my Ryft through the yard with 3s, just hit a small bump it would bounce out of control. Hit some ATV climbs it would get out of control also. I put AE40 weight in the front and AE35 in the rear and that settled it down real nice. Way more controllable at speed.
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Old 06-28-2021 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by t@n
Hi, My axial ryft esc can not turn on after being cleaned. There is no funtion sign. Have you guys experience this before? really appreciate your help.

Explain "Cleaned" in a little detail? They are waterproof escs. but not submersible in terms of water.


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Old 07-01-2021 | 09:26 PM
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I’ve been looking to buy Ryft and my friend got it first. So far he took it out 3 times and every single time he breaks rod end, and looses inner shaft. He drives it normal no abuse but quality of some plastic parts wishing be better.
Is it pretty normal that rod ends breaks on all bumps and jumps? What do you use as metal replacement?
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Old 07-02-2021 | 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Wermart
I’ve been looking to buy Ryft and my friend got it first. So far he took it out 3 times and every single time he breaks rod end, and looses inner shaft. He drives it normal no abuse but quality of some plastic parts wishing be better.
Is it pretty normal that rod ends breaks on all bumps and jumps? What do you use as metal replacement?
It is common for them to stretch and break. The straight ones are a little better than angled rod ends but still horrible.

Last edited by mosquito; 09-14-2021 at 01:07 PM.
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Old 07-02-2021 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Wermart
I’ve been looking to buy Ryft and my friend got it first. So far he took it out 3 times and every single time he breaks rod end, and looses inner shaft. He drives it normal no abuse but quality of some plastic parts wishing be better.
Is it pretty normal that rod ends breaks on all bumps and jumps? What do you use as metal replacement?

Get some Traxxas Revo Rod Ends, and replace the Axial ends with the Traxxas ends as they break. That will be a big improvement over the Ryft ones.

Seems they (Axial) May have pulled the trigger on this one a little to early for release...

but overall, once a few things are dealt with, its a fun rig.
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Old 07-02-2021 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Wermart
I’ve been looking to buy Ryft and my friend got it first. So far he took it out 3 times and every single time he breaks rod end, and looses inner shaft. He drives it normal no abuse but quality of some plastic parts wishing be better.
Is it pretty normal that rod ends breaks on all bumps and jumps? What do you use as metal replacement?
Team Associated 81399 RC8B3 Rod Ends 4 mm. To make the rods short enough I had to cut the rod end down where the rod threads in. I cut like 1/4 off. I had to buy 3 sets to do the whole Ryft. 2 in each pack are of set, I put them on the lower front rods to gain a little ground clearance. Other 2 offset ends I put on rear rods at the top of the rear axle housing. You use the balls out of the stock ryft arm ends. 8 batt packs no breaks.
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Old 07-02-2021 | 11:12 PM
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Much appreciated all the feedback and suggestions. We already looked up other forums and seems like Traxxas Revo rods are holding up much better than the stock. I will also send him a link above for the Team Associated rods.
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Old 07-04-2021 | 05:02 PM
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Picked up a Max8/2200kv combo for the Ryft.
However I am going to return it and go with a Sensored setup.

Which would you go with and why. For those using the Tekin combo, was it worth the 80ish more over the castle?

Thinking of
1 Tekin Rx4 and ROC 412 2300kv with 5mm shaft 190 for the esc and 140 for the motor, 65 for the HotWire Bluetooth. 400 after taxes
2. Castle Mamba Monster and the 1512 2700kv combo or maybe the 2200kv motor if it would fit with no modding needed. 259 for the EXC/Motor combo and 35 for the Castle Bluetooth total of 300 after taxes (other option is an appropriate Holmes motor with 5mm shaft, but don't see much past the 8th comp motor).
3. Hobbywing Xr8 Plus with the 4368 motor combo. this one runs 360 for the ESC Motor and I have LCD Programmer for a HW.

So is the TEKIN worth 100 more than the Castle setup

Anyone running the XR8 Plus 4368 combo?

What would your choice be?

I know Ive read the thread, but Im looking for a bit of detail as to why you went with the one over another option, and now that you have it, what do you wish it had, or would you have went another route after running the setup a while?
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Last edited by Timmahh; 07-08-2021 at 11:18 PM.
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Old 07-05-2021 | 12:54 AM
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I put the Hobbywing Xerun XR8 SCT Brushless ESC/3660D G2 Motor (3200KV) ($195) in mine right off the go, I pulled the RTR electrics out first thing. The hobbywing combo has way more control. I drag raced a buddy with the RTR electrics with 4s vs this hobbywing combo on 3s and won the races. Since I have pulled the XR8SCT for use in my DB48 and put a XR10 pro in the Ryft on 2s and it is performing great other than top speed. At some point I will grab another XR8SCT to put in my Ryft again.
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Old 07-05-2021 | 10:14 AM
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I have an XR8 SCT with a 3660 size 3600kv combo in my 4x4 slash. Motor is good for 2s and 3s. Hmmmm. Maybe a swap? Thinking the motor will be too small for the Ryft.


But I think the 4268 motor in 2200kv would be a bitter fit, being sensored and a bit shorter (68mm) so it would fit without any trimming on the skid.

I was thinking of the SCT, but if I do at some point move into an 8th scale rig, the XR8 Plus esc would be a better option at that point.

But then the other options I am considering, RX4/412 ROC 2300 combo or the Castle/Holmes setup will work a bit better in the long run.


Decisions, Decisions.
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Old 07-08-2021 | 11:24 PM
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So I went route number 3. Didn't install the Max8/2200 I am really thinking about dropping this in my What N Tarnation Build!. Gear it up and she'd be a flippin' beast. Litteraly lol do a short wheelybar and make it a wheely machine. lol I hate that though. heh

Once I had it on the way I determined my dorkass should have ordered a Sensored system, because I will be doing some low speed crawing with it.

So I now have an RX4/2300kv HD Tekin system on the way and a HW 3.0 for the radio box. also have a set of F and R axles, SSD Axle tubes on the way. Have a set of Fast Eddy Bearings for the entire rig. Added a pair of shock bumpers as internal limiters to the rear shocks, still have to do the fronts and put them on.

going to keep this Vanquish Yeti XL sway bar and get a piece of spring steel for it and get it installed in a day or so.
Teken stuff should be here early week.

Looking at a few addition sets of rims/tires to run. Ottsix USD Stickys are out of Stock everywhere.

So I think Im going to get a set of Duratrax Deep Woods and and put them on a set of HR Steel Beadlocks and then a set of Chinese aluminum beadlocks and 2.2 tires with no badging and a nice tread pattern I can sip away.

I also found a good used set of Pitbull Rock Beasts II on a set of Pro Line USA beadlock rims in 2.2 from Ebay.

So when I installed my 2 speed and finished up making the Reefs Micro 99 servo and horn work for the 2 speed, and fiddling 3 times with the 2 speed itself getting it to work really well, I put those wheel on the ryft.

Here it is currently, Still need to do the front shocks and install them.

currently has a pair of 120 china shocks up front on each side, one unsprung just for dampening support. Works pretty well to be honest, just 120mm is too short. not enough travel.

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Old 07-09-2021 | 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Big_Show
I put the Hobbywing Xerun XR8 SCT Brushless ESC/3660D G2 Motor (3200KV) ($195) in mine right off the go, I pulled the RTR electrics out first thing. The hobbywing combo has way more control. I drag raced a buddy with the RTR electrics with 4s vs this hobbywing combo on 3s and won the races. Since I have pulled the XR8SCT for use in my DB48 and put a XR10 pro in the Ryft on 2s and it is performing great other than top speed. At some point I will grab another XR8SCT to put in my Ryft again.
what gearing are you using? Is yours faster on 3s than his on 4s or is it control?
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Old 07-15-2021 | 12:20 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by mosquito
what gearing are you using? Is yours faster on 3s than his on 4s or is it control?
I am running a 14 tooth pinion and it is just faster speed wise as the motor turns like 10,000 RPMs faster per paper work. He is all stock RTR and the sock motor on 4s turns like 35,000 RPM and per the HW programmer I turn around 45,000 on 3s. But yes it is smoother and more controllable also. For crawling I been running 2s, just way easier to control and not running out of power.
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Old 07-15-2021 | 12:42 AM
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Still Waiting on the mail to bring the RX4/2300kv HD. For some damn reason, they sent it from Georgia, to Texas. I'm in Michigan.. SMDH.
Anyways, I want to Ace Is the Place Hardware to get some spring steel. They used to carry it. Well lets just say Ace Isn't much different than any other box store today. No rod style spring steel though thy used to carry it here locally.
But they did have some Nice T handle allen wrenches and one was 2.5mm and 10ish inches long. And its US made and made out of quality spring steel. So 150mm whacked off and I had a good cross bar to moun the Vanquish V2 Yeti Sway Bar. Added a piece of fuel tube as bushing holds to hold the brass guide bushings for the crossbar. So Mounting the Sway bar as designed by Vanquish is doabl with about 150-153mm of 2.5mm Spring Steel rod.


Now for the bad. The bars are overall, very nice, Just a bit too short. I had to mount in the rear most mount on the sway bar, and the down links are at a decent angle in relation to the front axle. cant move it forward any or the sway bar will be uselss.

So if you're looking for a sway bar atm, I would suggest the stocker, the Treal, or the Vitavon as they are the only options atm.
Thinking I will order the Treal unit. Might need to get a better piece of spring steel (another 5.00 Long T handle Allen Wrench from Ace) that is 3 or 3.5mm for a better quality crossbar, but so far, most are not having any issue with it.

I have a vid on my youboob channel (live) on its install and I end the vid with a few minutes on my thoughts over the diff issue, and the probably solution or fix for them.

I'll get a few pics and make some runs in the next few days with the current sway bar, and get the Treal ordered and on the way.
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