The body is completely wrecked now and ended up with a broken front bumper and rear body mounts



So I’ve ordered a set of M2C shock towers with Arrma body mounts and a indestructible body 👍

Had the MT410 on the bench for quick review and look over before I started a quick rebuild

Can anyone give me the pin to pin length of the center drive shaft?

I built the kit stock. I’ve read quite a bit and understood my esc/motor options. I went with castle mostly because I’m local to castle and walk in customer support is pretty good. That being said I’ve been waiting a couple months. Tekin looks to be back ordered as well. What other options are there for the stock kit that I might be able to get a hold of. Cost isn’t a big concern.

I plan on running 4s

In sensored there’s the Hobbywing xr8 sct, xr8 plus, and xr8 pro. In sensorless there’s the hobybywing max 8, spectrum firma, and the ARRMA takeoffs from the kits on sale on eBay. I’m running sensored but would be perfectly fine with sensorless as well.

Hi guys, I still have this nice upgrade on my website but no one is finding it... please check the link below:
https://www.rc-speedhouse.com/winkel...-rear-hubs-x2/

I am going to be buying a Tekno MT410. I have been looking at all the upgrades to buy before the build. I am wondering if the stock gearboxes break ever? I see ALL Racing makes the aluminum ones and wondering if they are the way to go? Tired of breaking the gearboxes on my 1/8scale ebuggy and need a real Basher that can handle big air and crashes that go with it when not landing perfect. If anybody can put together a parts list with all the great upgrades would be very helpful. Thank you.

Big air crashes will break stuff regardless of what brand you're running. That being said, the gearboxes hold up pretty well.

For large jumps you'll benefit from some M2C parts:
- Stiffen the center of the chassis: Center V2 solid brace 6905
- Stiffen/brace the rear end of the chassis and shock towers: Pick one

• Go big kit 6970 and the front shock tower brace 6760
• Horizontal Brace 6973 and 9mm thick shock towers 6967

It'd be a good idea to upgrade the shock caps. I like the tekno emulsion/vented/non-vented caps (TKR8702).

TBR bumpers are a great upgrade as well. XV4 front bumper is better than the basher bumper. The wheelie bar is flimsy since it uses the stock rear bumper brace. The rear basher bumper is much better.

Aluminum servo horn is required, stock will snap really quickly. Steel spur for gritty surfaces.

There's other things like the M2C wide chassis and the steel diff cups that are nice but not needed unless you're running larger motors and more power.

Final product with debaged emaxx body and backflip LP’s. Traxxas wheels and tires are way too wide offset

Hey guys,
Started building my MT410 this evening and I'm quickly approaching the shocks. I've seen that the TKR8702 aluminum shock caps are a really popular upgrade (understandably so). I've only ever built buggies with Tekno, so every shock of theirs I've ever built has used emulsion, which means I'm not used to dealing with bladders. When using these caps, how are people building their shocks? Tekno give instructions for various damper types (vented, non-vented, and emulsion), but it's unclear to me if I otherwise build the shocks exactly how described in the manual. I'm probably overthinking this, but some guidance on what to do here would be appreciated.

I run the 8702 caps on my MT and ET, non-vented bladder setup. I build them per the ET48 2.0 instructions on page 19 of the ET48 2.0 manual. Super plush after many packs. Fluid stays pretty clean too.

Here are the steps:

Step 1. Prepare caps by inserting bladders. Also at this time, install the small TKR8725 o-rings onto the TKR1248 screws. Do not install the TKR1248 rebound screw into the shock cap during this step.

Step 2. Extend the shock shaft all the way down. Fill the shock with oil until the body is approximately 90% full.

Step 3. Slowly pump the shock shaft up and down 3-5 times to release air bubbles from underneath the piston.

Step 4. Let the shock rest vertically with the shock shaft fully extended for five minutes or until all the air bubbles have released. After the air has escaped, top o the shock with oil (about 1-2mm below the top). If you overfill the shock, it won’t hurt performance, it will just spill out and make a little bit of a mess.

Step 5A. Push the shock shaft into the shock body about halfway (about 1” or 25mm of the shaft exposed) to set a base rebound. Pushing the shaft in further will decrease the base rebound and pulling the shaft out more will increase it. Be careful to not position the shaft too far out or too far in because it will hydrolock or suck the bladder into the body during use. Final rebound will be set in Step 6.

Step 5B. Place the cap on the shock and slowly screw down about half way. Oil will start to ooze out of the bleeder hole on the side of the shock cap. Hold the cap and continue to fully secure it by slowly turning the shock body. The shock will continue to bleed oil. Wipe excess oil from the shock once the cap is fully tightened down.

Step 6. Set your final rebound by holding the shock shaft in the desired position and installing the small rebound screw assembly. Fully extending the shock shaft and installing the screw will produce the maximum amount of rebound. Fully pushing the shaft into the shock body and installing the screw will produce the minimum amount of rebound. You can now tune your rebound quickly by repeating this step.

This is fantastic, thank you! Any suggestions for a starting place for rebound?

I've noticed that the TKR5071C lightened wheel hubs seem to kind of eat into the corners of the hex pattern in the wheels. It hasn't caused any issues yet, but it just doesn't sit well with me how the lightened pieces of the hub seem to be grabbing the plastic in the corners.

Would the TKR9671 wheel hubs from the ET48 2.0 kit work as replacements? They seems to be a very similar part and have the same +2mm offset as the TKR5071C part. Maybe it doesn't matter, but with all that power and torque, I sure would feel better with a bigger contact patch against all that plastic inside the wheel rim.

Recently picked up a lightly used MT410. It came rtr. I rebuilt the entire truck over the weekend, diffs, shocks, had the entire thing apart. It’s back together now and ready to go.

So my questions revolves around the electronics. The truck came with a Tekin RX8 Gen 3 esc and a Tekin 2000kv T8 Gen 3 truggy motor. Is this motor overkill? Will I be chewing through drivetrain parts with it? Currently running on 4s (15t pinion I believe).

thank you

Not all the mt410 was built around race electronics such as tekins truggy combo . Enjoy my friend