Have you tried a harder diff?

I'll look at my setup, but you should share some more. What's the ride height? Motor setup? Steering servo? Toe? The car should have "some" toe-in. RWD gets progressively more difficult to drive with more power. If you've got a 13.5 in there, you're going to need to figure out current limiting and such. Off power oversteer happens because your rear wheels are now trying to turn the motor, AND weight has transfered forward. There's ways around that.

Thanks for your help/reply.
-install a "harder Differential" (?). . .wouldn't that take away more rear traction?

(I haven't had the time to test the changes yet (Coronavirus scare).


Thank you
Take care

Thanks for the help/info.

-ride height -Rear: 6mm - - -ride height -Front: 6mm
-Droop rear: 0 - - -Droop front: 0
-motor set-up(?): 13T Brushed Reedy Ti Motor
-servo: Futaba 9451
-toe: 0°(straight as possible)

When breaking (with M-06) the rear-wheels are try'n to lock/stop; cause'n the over-steer/slide.......(?)

I went back to Rear - Red Springs and Front - Blue Springs.
I haven't tested the changes yet (Coronavirus scare).

Try'n to enjoy this thing.
​​​​​
Thank you
Take care

The M-06 has a lot of play in the steering.
-(if using the Stock - Steering-Set) I installed a .05mm Spacer between A4(Steering-Set - Left) - A10(Steering-Post) and S9(Steering-Set - Right) - A10(Steering-Post)

The .05mm Spacer deleted the play. The chassis can now (should) run in a straight(er)-line. (haven't ran a test-runs yet)

Try'n to have fun with this thing.

Stay well
Take care

I have the m04/06/08... the m04 and m06 are easiest to drive with zero droop in the rear... or very little (maybe 1 to 2mm at the wheel).

this will prevent the off throttle oversteer. If your track grip is high. Push as much weight as possible towards the front, so that you won’t get so much of the pendulum effect off throttle.

I found that I didn’t needed to have the minimal droop setup on the m08, but having minimal droop on m06 and m04 was super helpful.

have fun!

(I apologise for the lack of explanation)
I slightly described the wrong point of my M-06 over-steer problem.
The chassis will over-steer when I hit the Breaks Hard-ish. - There's No over-steer when I Lightly - hit the Breaks (Lightly-tap the breaks on and off).

Try'n to have fun with this thing.

Stay well
Take care

Hello
Thanks for the help/info.

I run little to NO-Droop in the rear and front.

Will your set-up idea reduce or stop my over-steer problem during Hard-ish breaking?


Stay well
Take care

Weight transfer is controlled by droop. A lot of droop equals lots of weight transfer. Too little equal little to no weight transfer.

M06 is a rear wheel drive car, which needs weight transfer on rear for traction. No droop in the rear will cause you to spin out.

Weight transfer front to rear when on throttle is controlled by front droop. The more front droop you have, the more weight transfers from front to back on throttle. This gives you an on throttle understeer (front gets lighter, rear gets heavier) and better rear grip... when on throttle .

It is reversed in off throttle. More rear droop allows weight to transfer from rear to front when off throttle or braking. This leads to a heavy front and light rear. The effect is more steering (oversteer) and faster rotation (rear is unweighted and light).

The rear motor does cause a pendulum effect which may confuse the droop setting. It may seem like the lack of rear droop causes the spin outs, but it's mostly because the weight of the rear motor wants to keep the rear turning even when you want to go straight... grip issue...

m chassis tuning is always a little weird. Short arms, high profile tires (if you use tamiya 60d)... best if you just try it

Best if you try it and see what you need.

This chassis isn't that fun. (to me) Because of the lack of enjoyment this thing gives me; I never adjusted/measured the Droop on it.

So; I took some time out to measure the Rear and Front Droop.

Droop
-Rear: 1.3
-Front: 1(measured from front-rear)

The m04 and m06 are very hard to get right. No matter whose setup you clone. The car is not easy to drive. It's quite satisfying when you do get it right.
both m04 and m06 requires careful tire selection (get the grippiest possible) and only traction compound the rear (and if you feel brave, a tiny bead around the front).

Droop plays a huge part in on/off throttle steering/rotation.

Car rolling characteristics can go too far... because of the narrow track and the super short arms. So too much may cause 3 wheeling. 3 wheeling in a fwd is fine but in a rwd...

I actually prefer my m06 in the swb format. Provides the best nimbleness to offset the lack of rear droop (off throttle weight transfer).

Have fun!

Has anyone used the genuine Tamiya Aluminium rear uprights, part # 92237
the issue im having is the amount of slop the wheel has which is coming through
the axle assy in the rear, ive tried new axles and new 1050 bearings, both tamiya and xray
bearings, the issue i think i can see is the fit of the bearings into the upright, they dont seem to be
a snug fit compared to the kit plastic ones, there is little to no free play where the axle passes through
the bearing so im assuming that the bearing fit into the upright is whats resulting in the movement.
anyone else come across this or have a fix for it?
thanks.

I don't believe my M-06 has play in the area you described (?)
-I could've shimmed it out?

​​​​I installed Shims between the Hub and the Aluminum Upright (item # 54267) to reduce the play of the wheel-tires.
-item # 92237-(silver) the same as item # 54267-(blue). . .?

I also installed Shims on the back of the Suspension Ball Shaft (item # 54296) to reduce the play in that area.

item 92237 and 54267 are the same except for the colours, dimension etc are all identical.

what exactly do you mean by installing shims between the hub and upright, the hub and the upright is the same thing so im not sure what you mean.

i believe the issue is the bearing fit into the alu upright, its not firm, infact if you place the bearings in and pick the upright up without the axle installed they will fall out, inside and outside

so im pretty sure this is where the free play is coming from, ive tried brand new 1050 bearings from Tamiya and also Xray. the issue is still the same, even if i shim inside the upright between

the 2 bearings on the axle the issue still remains.