Reason behind aluminum diff case..?
#16
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 176
If you are referencing the b74 alu f/r diffs, I noticed they help prevent the diff cup side outdrive from leaking as much or at all. The alu center diff will reduce spur gear damage due to the AE spur and diff sometimes being a little off true. The plastic center cases do not seem to have a leak issue in my experience.
I'm just adding these benefits to the list of already mentioned oil cooling. They might have just a smidge more oil capacity due to the slightly different inner design but it looks really close.
I'm just adding these benefits to the list of already mentioned oil cooling. They might have just a smidge more oil capacity due to the slightly different inner design but it looks really close.
I was very happy once i got the RD aluminum diff cups f/r and center. Everything runs true, no oil leaks, o-rings are not worn out nearly as fast thanks to the slot for the o-ring actually concentric to the outdrive shaft, no more annoying drivetrain vibrations that was hell on the car causing it to prematurely wear out "clap out", constant diff action from the start to end of runs, and finally the spur and gear mesh was no also concentric cutting the wear down.
#18
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,913
From: South Dakota
Amismb
Great post!
When I had my RC10 several times I had to shape the teeth on the diff gear and idler. I had several stealth transmissions so set up one that you can assemble the new gear with posi locked outdrives and assembled a so called gear lapping Transmission, put some valve lapping compound in it and spun the outdrives with a drill for a minuet and checked the gear, kept going until I was satisfied with how the idler and diff gear meshed.
Today I have a HD diff case that is setup for lapping teeth on new gears however have not done so yet.
Also I have installed a o-ring on the front and rear outdrives where they contact the diff case or the ring gear and have proved to work exceptionally well.
Great post!
When I had my RC10 several times I had to shape the teeth on the diff gear and idler. I had several stealth transmissions so set up one that you can assemble the new gear with posi locked outdrives and assembled a so called gear lapping Transmission, put some valve lapping compound in it and spun the outdrives with a drill for a minuet and checked the gear, kept going until I was satisfied with how the idler and diff gear meshed.
Today I have a HD diff case that is setup for lapping teeth on new gears however have not done so yet.
Also I have installed a o-ring on the front and rear outdrives where they contact the diff case or the ring gear and have proved to work exceptionally well.



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