rwhammond

I participated in my first race this weekend. Ive got a Tekno SCT and I was running a full charged 6000mah battery. Our qualifiers were for 7 minutes. My truck was randomly stopping as we were racing. I thought it maybe was the lipo cut off (Hobbywing XR8 SCT) but after the truck randomly stopped after a few mins, it would start again and keep running for maybe another couple laps before stopping again.

Any thoughts or help would be appreciated.

mushroomed

iTrader: (8)

It could still just be lipo cutoff, with the voltage slightly recovering once the load is removed.

Next three things to check:
-Temperature. Is the esc or motor too hot? Remove timing boost and turbo on the esc. Change the gearing or add a fan.
-Connectors. Are your connectors snug? If using 4 or 5mm connectors, you can gently splay them with a flat head screwdriver to make a tight fit. Loose connectors can cause random cutouts.
-Sensor cable. Check for a loose or damaged sensor cable. They’re cheap compared to a crash, replace it for peace of mind.

4wd short course is relatively hard on batteries, but you should be able to get that truck adjusted to make it through the mains easily with your battery.

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

How old are the electronics?
What is the IR reading of your battery cells?
What is the condition of your connectors?

I recently built a SCT410.3 earlier this year:
BUILD/REVIEW TEKNO SCT410.3

After about 5 months of racing between 1-2 race days a week, I was having the solder melt on the bullet connectors to the battery. Turns out that slight corrosion was starting to form and the connectors needed to be replaced.

I opted to go with a more efficient setup on 3S, more info here:
https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/...389/post-14872

rwhammond

Thanks. Connections all look good no issues there. I would love to run 3s, but our club only allows 2s for racing.

The IR for the batter is 3.0 for each cell. Electronics are new as of March of this year.

rwhammond

Thanks mushroomed
So I updated the software and it seems the lipo cut off was sent to 3.8v per cell. ive adjusted this, so hopefully that solves the issues.

-Temperature on the esc after a hard run was 120 on the esc and 130 on the motor. Turbo was off, but boost/punch was at 5. Ive removed it. Currently running a 17pinion, with that heat, I didnt think it was overly aggressive.
-Connectors. Confirmed. These are very tight.
-Sensor cable. Replaced just because I had extra and good advice.

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

That's close to the age of my connectors when they started to fail... it wouldn't hurt to invest in the following product and use it to clean your connectors every rebuild interval:

Bachmann Trains - E-Z LUBE - CONDUCTIVE CONTACT LUBE

Bachmann Trains - E-Z LUBE - CONDUCTIVE CONTACT LUBE

rwhammond

Thank you for that! Ive got a very similar product. Think I'll do ahead and add it to my entire line up.

the rc guy

sounds like the lvc is doing its job. Id try another battery sounds like the battery you are using is not holding its voltage.sure it has bounce back but like you said it will stop after a few laps. try another battery 1st

rwhammond

we actually did test two different batteries as thats what a friend thought. same result sadly. both batteries are fairly new.

HOTROD716

As a test, I would turn off the voltage cutoff and see if you experience the problems. A couple of things as I too have a sct 410.3 and had some battery issues not that long ago. I know you had a second battery, but these things suck power. What size guage wire are you using? I bumped up to 10ga, just to make sure.

the rc guy

Then the esc is your next step..

Backyard RC

I had a Hobbywing SCT Pro do that to me a while back. It had the same symptoms of cutting out for a few seconds then turning back on for about a minute. I tried several things including updating the software but I eventually just started using a different esc.

Alexv2024

iTrader: (2)

How many mah does the battery take when you recharge it? How many do you get if you discharge it down to 3.5v/cell?

Juglenaut

iTrader: (19)

With the esc off, remove the sensor cable from the motor, turn on transmitter and then the esc, and try forward trigger.. does it move right away??
Turn off esc, plug in the sensor cable at motor, turn on esc, wait for a bit, try forward again.. does the motor respond immediately?? Does it cog with the sensor cable plugged in. Do you have to assist the motor by turning a drive axle to get the motor to start?

Looking at the esc led light and with the sensor wire plugged in, rev’ing and braking it lightly does the esc ever start blinking both green and red at the same time?

The symptom being described is similar to esc thermal protection or the esc may be losing throttle signal.

Juglenaut

iTrader: (19)

LVC should be set to no lower than 3.2v per cell, 3.4v is a little more safe.

https://convert-formula.com/mah-hours