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Truck Cutting Out

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Truck Cutting Out

Old 08-01-2020, 06:42 PM
  #1  
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Default Truck Cutting Out

I participated in my first race this weekend. Ive got a Tekno SCT and I was running a full charged 6000mah battery. Our qualifiers were for 7 minutes. My truck was randomly stopping as we were racing. I thought it maybe was the lipo cut off (Hobbywing XR8 SCT) but after the truck randomly stopped after a few mins, it would start again and keep running for maybe another couple laps before stopping again.

Any thoughts or help would be appreciated.
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Old 08-01-2020, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by rwhammond View Post
I participated in my first race this weekend. Ive got a Tekno SCT and I was running a full charged 6000mah battery. Our qualifiers were for 7 minutes. My truck was randomly stopping as we were racing. I thought it maybe was the lipo cut off (Hobbywing XR8 SCT) but after the truck randomly stopped after a few mins, it would start again and keep running for maybe another couple laps before stopping again.

Any thoughts or help would be appreciated.
It could still just be lipo cutoff, with the voltage slightly recovering once the load is removed.

Next three things to check:
-Temperature. Is the esc or motor too hot? Remove timing boost and turbo on the esc. Change the gearing or add a fan.
-Connectors. Are your connectors snug? If using 4 or 5mm connectors, you can gently splay them with a flat head screwdriver to make a tight fit. Loose connectors can cause random cutouts.
-Sensor cable. Check for a loose or damaged sensor cable. They’re cheap compared to a crash, replace it for peace of mind.

4wd short course is relatively hard on batteries, but you should be able to get that truck adjusted to make it through the mains easily with your battery.
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Old Yesterday, 08:19 AM
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How old are the electronics?
What is the IR reading of your battery cells?
What is the condition of your connectors?

I recently built a SCT410.3 earlier this year:
BUILD/REVIEW TEKNO SCT410.3

After about 5 months of racing between 1-2 race days a week, I was having the solder melt on the bullet connectors to the battery. Turns out that slight corrosion was starting to form and the connectors needed to be replaced.

I opted to go with a more efficient setup on 3S, more info here:
https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/...389/post-14872




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Old Yesterday, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
How old are the electronics?
What is the IR reading of your battery cells?
What is the condition of your connectors?

I recently built a SCT410.3 earlier this year:
BUILD/REVIEW TEKNO SCT410.3

After about 5 months of racing between 1-2 race days a week, I was having the solder melt on the bullet connectors to the battery. Turns out that slight corrosion was starting to form and the connectors needed to be replaced.

I opted to go with a more efficient setup on 3S, more info here:
https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/...389/post-14872
Thanks. Connections all look good no issues there. I would love to run 3s, but our club only allows 2s for racing.

The IR for the batter is 3.0 for each cell. Electronics are new as of March of this year.
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Old Yesterday, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by mushroomed View Post
It could still just be lipo cutoff, with the voltage slightly recovering once the load is removed.

Next three things to check:
-Temperature. Is the esc or motor too hot? Remove timing boost and turbo on the esc. Change the gearing or add a fan.
-Connectors. Are your connectors snug? If using 4 or 5mm connectors, you can gently splay them with a flat head screwdriver to make a tight fit. Loose connectors can cause random cutouts.
-Sensor cable. Check for a loose or damaged sensor cable. They’re cheap compared to a crash, replace it for peace of mind.

4wd short course is relatively hard on batteries, but you should be able to get that truck adjusted to make it through the mains easily with your battery.
Thanks mushroomed
So I updated the software and it seems the lipo cut off was sent to 3.8v per cell. ive adjusted this, so hopefully that solves the issues.

-Temperature on the esc after a hard run was 120 on the esc and 130 on the motor. Turbo was off, but boost/punch was at 5. Ive removed it. Currently running a 17pinion, with that heat, I didnt think it was overly aggressive.
-Connectors. Confirmed. These are very tight.
-Sensor cable. Replaced just because I had extra and good advice.
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Old Yesterday, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by rwhammond View Post
Electronics are new as of March of this year.
That's close to the age of my connectors when they started to fail... it wouldn't hurt to invest in the following product and use it to clean your connectors every rebuild interval:

Bachmann Trains - E-Z LUBE - CONDUCTIVE CONTACT LUBE Bachmann Trains - E-Z LUBE - CONDUCTIVE CONTACT LUBE
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Old Yesterday, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
That's close to the age of my connectors when they started to fail... it wouldn't hurt to invest in the following product and use it to clean your connectors every rebuild interval:

Bachmann Trains - E-Z LUBE - CONDUCTIVE CONTACT LUBE

Thank you for that! Ive got a very similar product. Think I'll do ahead and add it to my entire line up.
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Old Yesterday, 05:00 PM
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sounds like the lvc is doing its job. Id try another battery sounds like the battery you are using is not holding its voltage.sure it has bounce back but like you said it will stop after a few laps. try another battery 1st
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Old Yesterday, 09:50 PM
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we actually did test two different batteries as thats what a friend thought. same result sadly. both batteries are fairly new.
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