Hello all,

Coming back to RC racing after a 15+year vacation and have a couple questions. I have narrowed it down to wanting an EB410.2 to get back on the track. I am trying to find a good esc, and a couple motors. I am looking for an esc that can run 13.5 and something lower, not even sure on the turn. Just know at my local club people will be running some hot setups and want to stay competitive. Whats are some decent ESC's(brand/model) and motors(brand, model, turn) to be looking at for these chassis?

Thanks in advance!

My Favorite at this time, is a Hobbywing speed control. The pro version cost more, but if you plug it in backwords, it will probably survive. The just stock versions are smaller and fine. Motor, I like going with RotorRon. Let him sale and tune you up something fast. I'm currently running one of his tuned Revtech, and it is fast. I also like Maclan and Reedy motors/speed controls. Hard to go wrong.

I was looking at hobbywing and tekin, it all seems to be a slippery slope just window shopping. I am looking to buy something thatll handle the 13.5 and mod. I would love to stay on the cheaper side of things staying with a HW but it seems that slope gets slippery with my wading pool of knowledge in the subject, if that. Soon as I think " oh no will this one handle what i need?" i immediately think well I should be fine with the hobbywing xr10 pro g2 sensored brushless esc/v10g3 motor combo 5.5T, and find a good 13.5 and call that good. But is there a cheaper way to achieve this while staying with a good brand? was looking at the Tekin RS Gen3 esc as well.

Sorry if I am a bit all over the place, couple too many cups of coffee and in between calls.

Thank you sea1swk

Hobbywing XR10 Pro G2 Sensored Brushless ESC/V10 G3 Motor Combo (5.5T)

If you reverse the polarity the ESC will survive but your cap bank most likely will not. Hobbywing sells special caps online that can survive reverse polarity.

"I also like Maclan and Reedy motors/speed controls. Hard to go wrong"

I do too. It's all I have run since getting back into the hobby a few months ago. If you use an Android phone with Maclan ESC there's an app that lets you make all of your settings to your ESC without any Wi-Fi or separate setup box or anything. It has worked Flawlessly for me. Besides the settings it has telemetry so you can check things like motor temperature and ESC temperature. Only slight let down for me is the 8.5 turn Reedy I'm using doesn't seem compatible motor temperature telemetry. If you're buying new Maclan gives a better price if you buy motor and ESC together. Other brands might do this too

Yep, all fun till you accidentally plug it in backwards. I smoked a Maclan Pro and a $160 motor. Hobbywing is also a good ESC, but with a little insurance.

Hi Guys. I just started building my EB410.2 last night. As I was looking through the manual, the step for installing the rear chassis brace talks about different inserts for the top mounting point based on the 'risers' being used. I can't find any other mention of risers in the manual. Can anyone enlighten me as to what these risers are?

Thanks in advance!

On a side note, a funny thing happened while filling the rear diff. As I was putting in the 10k silicone, the bottle top popped out and silicone just exploded everywhere! To get the fluid to dispense right, I had to hold the spout in with both index fingers while squeezing the bottle to keep it from flying apart. Never had that happen before!

These go under the transmission case for carpet/turf tracks

The risers were something that was included in the original eb410 kit. There are also corisponding inserts for the rear braces that are used depending on which risers you use.

These pages are screen shots from the original EB410 manual.

Thank You, Rhet McNair and Tbuggy! That was very helpful info. Thanks!

Hmm, building a eb410.2 into a 2wd Shortcourse. Shims to lower ride height? Did not think of that! I like it! Going to have to take a look at my eb410.2 that is now a et410.2. Get the ride height I want, and see if the drive shafts are parallel with the ground. If not, add shims!

I run the diff insert on my eb410 .2 for the high bite clay track that I run on as well with great results.

Like it says, I wondered if I could get an edge-to-edge measurement of the widest part of the chassis, or the lower edge of the body shell.
Asking for a friend...

Time to construct an elite level "basher". I've handed down the entry level RTR kit to a four year old and I need something to fill that void.

I went full ridiculous on color scheme. color shift purple-green and fluorescent pink with white stripes between. The black is marker (i.e. will be removed with the protective film). The wheels are green.

This thing may never see a race track, but it will establish clear dominance of our neighborhood casual drivers!

[imagine a picture here but the forum says i can't post URLs (??) until I have 10 posts]


guts will be:
flysky GTC3 radio
castle sidewinder 4 and 5700 kv motor
savox 1258TG servo
tires are proline prime for the street and proline blockade for whatever all terrain

bourbon is Mt Defiance, picked up from the distillery here in VA.


current status is: rear end assembly is built, front end assembly is 80% built.

I plan to 3D print a spur/pinion cover to keep debris out of the gears for durability and longevity. I'll share that model here if anyone's interested... once I design it.

For a basher, aluminium servo arm and I assume with a 5700kv, your running the et410 spur (32 pitch I believe). The body fits pretty tight to keep dirt out. But I don't bash.