Haha yeah man eBay was slim pickings for the flywheel I figured I’d order that bundle. If you need one in the future we can work something out I’m happy to help. I got the truck yesterday, it’s pretty clean but has a few issues which I figured it would. Gonna do one small thing at a time to get it back in running condition. I’m also gonna start my own thread so I don’t completely hijack your thread.

ever get your truck in? and had a chance to work on it at all to get it back going?

Hey snowman! I did get the truck In, pretty clean with areas of wear which I expected for a 15 year old truck but the transmission, diffs, plastics, and bearings all seem smooth and good to go. I have quite a few little things I have to replace on it, and sort of get overwhelmed looking at it haha. Some of the things I need include bottom engine mount screws, a new on off switch which I’m confused about because the stock one has a tiny red 2 prong connection for the battery, and the battery is no good that came with it. I have a dynamite 5 cell receiver battery I wanted to plug in to see if the stock JR Servos still work, but it’s not capable of being plugged into the red switch plug. I’ll also need the 4 screws that go through the engine mount tabs To secure it to the engine mount. If all my electronics work after that, I either need to get a Futaba receiver to connect my 3pv radio with it, or if possible use my spectrum dx2e but because it’s got the forward/reverse shift servo in it, I’m unsure as to whether I need a 3 channel or 4 channel radio. I also have no idea whether the transmission is in forward or reverse if I move the servo manually, if that makes sense. I did get my flywheels and used clutchbells which seem okay, now I need a 3 shoe clutch and springs and I need to figure out what gearing i have because I heard you need a certain tooth clutchbell with a certain tooth spur gear. Anyway I have a lot of work to do I’m sweating as I’m typing this just thinking about it, even though I’m capable of maintenance just seems like a lot. wish I could sit down with someone for 12 hours and be shown all the little things I don’t know about this truck. Anyway I’ll keep you updated and try and post pictures later today

Hey man! Congrats on the new truck coming in! I definitely understand what you mean by feeling overwhelmed, just for to take it one step at a time, dont rush, take your time, and ask questions. The only dumb question is the one that wasnt asked. Mostly all my experience was self taught lol, definitely understand the unease of going into it blind, just remember though, these were meant to be taken apart and put back together, I definitely also recommend an exploded view (type "Losi LST" into google and chose the link directly to Losi site then resources then manual 2.) It also has all your part numbers too and parts lists.
my biggest recomendation is to get a good 1/16 driver, like dynamite:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/dynamit...4aAq9SEALw_wcB
or MIP:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/mip-tho...mip9001/p14504

those 4-40 flatheads strip so damn easily.

honestly one of the main reasons I have build threads is so I can look back and figure out why I did something, how i figure out easy ways to do things, and pictures as references.
Do not know if you know but those screws that go into the engine mounts are 5-40 pitch 1/2", they are hard to find without ordering online, what i did though is used the ones from the lower shock mount screws and used a 3mm screw there instead for now. I plan on doing the 4mm conversion on this.
as far as gearing I think it was 63/70 on the spurs, and 18/25 on the CBs.
i personally am liking the Dynamite Max Life clutch shoes:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/dynamit...ynp5180/p10016
but the stock plastic ones are cheap and do work well also.
the RX, for testing purposes you can plug the black plug from the battery directly to the RX, I dontreally get why they switched plugs for the battery like that.
red connector is called a "JST" connector black is a "JR" connector.
I switched mine to use all JR(black) so it will work between all my trucks If I need ( less charging adapters too)
yes you will need a 3 channel, or mechanically lock the truck in forward only (I have used fishing line to do it in a pinch)
did you recieve both RX/TX that it came with? (JR Racing XS3 /RS300? , If so that is still a good radio.
that said I do recommend the FOC eventually. Really drops alot of weight as well as rotational mass.

Any other questions do not hesitate to ask. I am completely fine with helping here on my build thread or even PM, but I recommend starting your own asap just so you have all the info In one place.
I can also take pics of my trucks to show that way too.i dont mind tearing down if it will help. Can attempt to do a video if needed but have never done that.

Thanks so much for all the info. I just need to break into this thing one step at a time like you said and not get overwhelmed lol. So I already have a set of both u.s and metric dynamite wrenches so I’m good there. The 5-40 screws I spent a half hour looking at my local hobbytown for them and quickly realized they are difficult to find, but I had the guy order me a set of 5-40 1/2 inch screws, I believe I’m getting a package of 8 of them, are the required screws that go through the engine blocks tops and secure it to the top of the engine mount 5-40 1/2 inch also? And would they require washers of some sort? Thanks for the info on the switch, like I said I have a lot to learn. I know there’s a ton of different connections but I was familiar with the jr connections because of my losi 8ight t. So if I want JR connections I’m assuming I’m going to have to get a new switch with a jr style connection point for the battery, and a 5 cell flat pack with a jr style tab on it. And the lst did NOT come with any radio or tx, I tried plugging in my extra 5 cell(fully charged) directly to the my stock spektrum receiver from the 8ight rtr, plugged in the steering servos wire from the lst into that receiver, turned on my spektrum radio but nothing happened. maybe I had them plugged in the wrong way or something, I doubt all 4 servos on the lst are toast ya know?but maybe they are. Next, hopefully the spur gears on mine are the original tooth count, I got two clutch bells along with two flywheels from that eBay purchase, so when I eventually install the engine I guess I would be able to tell right away from the quality of the gear mesh whether I have the correct combination of spur and clutch bell gears? So many questions I know but thank you again for the all the help and I’ll take your advice and eventually start a thread. You’ve been a big help Im helping me along so far and for that I appreciate you! I’ll check out the exploded diagrams for anything else I come across and plug away at it starting this week. Hopefully can still order parts from Amain and eBay if needed with everything going on in the world

yes 5-40 both above and below that thread into the engine mounts, i would get washers for above and below, but the most necessary ones are the ones below.
power switch, i would either get a new switch with the right connectors, or what i did was just solder new connectors to the existing switch. either way works, just know that you will have to kind of cut into the RX box just a bit for the connector to get through it either way, as the servos are male connectors, the switch is gonna have a male connector so a bit larger.
i would definitely be questioning all the servos being dead, you sure you had them plugged in the correct orientation? black to the outside, white or orange to the inside? mine are all still bone stock that it came out of the box with and still work flawlessly.
i would guess that they are the stock gear ratios, usually if they were not people selling it would know. i would count teeth on the CB just to make sure. the spurs should have tooth count stamped on them.
most parts are going to be available through Amain and Horizon, many parts are even still compatible with the LST XXL/2 and 3xle.
truck looks very awesome man!, very clean. doesnt look abused lol looks like you got lucky and they upgraded the plastic diff case with an aluminum one. one of the best upgrades!

thanks man! Ya know the more I look at it, I realize I did get a good one and just being overly cautious about ripping into it. I noticed the aluminum diff cup right away, and everything spins flawlessly.i think today I’m gonna try fussing around with the spektrum servos and radio gear again, because like you said I doubt the servos are toast, all 4 spin freely with no grinding or binding in either direction when moved by hand at least. I think I’m gonna order a new flat 5 cell pack and some clutch shoes. I also have to get a nasty black glob of dried fuel out of the tank, right where the bottom fuel nipple is. I’m guessing simple green or fresh fuel might get that out. Thanks again for all your encouragement and help. I’m realizing that once I get these screws and other minor parts( battery, switch, etc) and get the radio gear set up I’m basically good to go. I also need to look into some of my servo mounts, the shifting servo isn’t mounted in tightly even though the mounts and servo itself are screwed in. It’s wobbly . Looking forward to fixing this up though, might get a Novarossi 28-8 pull start engine instead of throwing the dynamite in. We shall see

I’ll be stuck in the house for the next couple of weeks really hoping to get this done!

holy mother of... that thing is awesome!!!!
is that a revo tranny? And that is a big block right?
have always wanted to get carbon fiber chassis plates, am curious on making some, were those bought or made??
got a build write up on that thing man?

It’s actually a small block novarossi 2.5 the truck is super lightweight. It started life as an Lst2 but I went back to Lst 1 arms, axles and such . As far as the main chassis plate I bought a 3 mm piece of carbon fiber and pretty much just traced and cut out the original chassis except for the center of course . Then had a cardboard chassis mocked up to fit and test trans spacing . Once I had it right I traced it to the carbon fiber and cut it . Here was the fun part. The rear center transmission driveline is stock . I had to order a few different drive lines and finally found a steel revo 2.5 front center shaft , best of all it fit the stock differential yoke . The top plates are Losi cf plates . The hinge pins and turnbuckles are Lunsford titanium . Those actually shed a noticeable amount of weight . The hinge pin braces are hardcore racing titanium, those themselves were super hard to find. I wanted a beefy yet lightweight shock so I tried yeti xl shocks and boom! Perfect fit . I’d gotten the idea because guys in the axial yeti forum were actually putting Lst shocks on their xl’s . I originally had muggy towers and standoffs with Losi 8ight t 3.0 rear shocks all the way around but the muggy tower would not let me access the roto start on the engine so I went this route. The only thing is the transmission sits lower than stock so I’m planning on cutting some carbon fiber spacers to lower the center skid plate . I’ll I have left to do is mount the throttle brake servo and receiver pack which I have the receive both of those in carbon fiber as well the receive pack will sit under the exhaust pipe but I will be installing a heat shield to protect the battery . I originally years back built an Lst with a Losi 3.4 and it was lightweight and ripped too! I used to be big into off-road monster truck racing which was pretty much monster trucks running on the truggy track and I raced no limit style as well . I loved the Lst line but guys racing the Revo’s always said it was unfair because I was running a big block so I said “ I’ll show you!!!!” Took me about a week or so and I showed up to the track with the same Lst but with cf chassis plates all the way around Lunsford titanium kit and the Losi 3.4 installed. It weighed it at just over 9lbs which was lighter than the revo platinum. I didn’t want to go too light because the truck wouldn’t stay planted. Man did they laugh when I set it down on the track . But by the time the race was over it was pretty quiet in the stands . I wasn’t the best driver and got 3rd on my first race but the Revo’s really had to push themselves to keep up . We all know the Lst is a very tough truck and paired with an underpowered engine , I never broke anything!!!! Just bumper mounts . I’ll post some pictures and a running vid of that bad boy soon.

Here’s my original small block Lst and I also put the 3.4 in a savage and of course lightened it up too . It was surprisingly fast as well.

Forgot to mention the best part about racing the Lst with the 3.4 was there wasn’t a limit on fuel tank size because monster truck racing didn’t have a rule for it . So I ran the Lst2 tank and would never had to pit for fuel . I think we tested it one time and got almost 23 minutes of race time and the mains never went past 20 minutes . I visited another track one time and when they were racing Revo’s and Tmaxx’s they aid I couldn’t go on because it was small block only I said I know , they said yes I know it’s an Lst and that’s a big block , they were kind of being jerks about it so I didn’t pop the lid right away to mess with em . Once they saw it they laughed too. The only thing is I let my buddy race who’s actually a good driver and man did he spank em!!!!!!! He almost lapped the main revo that claimed to have had $2000 in it and me I bought the truck used for $100 and sold engine,body and wheels for $ 80 and spent $200 or so on goodies and was spanking guys on a little under $300 dollar truck $350 if you counted wheels and tires !

that is pretty awesome man!
always though it would be cool to build an ultra-light LST, there is a muggified LST fully CFed out on ebay atm, 300$ more than i can spend at the moment though.
one thing i want to try is to get a 1/8 buggy chassis like a 8ight or something, and convert the ends to LST, pretty much going for a more "modernized" muggy. looking at it really wouldnt be too hard.

still haven't been able to pull this truck out though. sort of still waiting on the diff and a location i can run that has electrical power, i want to pre-heat the engine for awhile longer.
really wish Nitro MT racing would come back.