Ya the front was very straight forward. No issues. Just the back required not using the plate and flipping the stud to the back side. The carbon front still uses the plate as per the manual.

Very nice. Thats good to know. Thanks for the heads up.

There should be a small plastic piece in the extra parts bag that takes up that gap when running a carbon tower without a plate. That piece and the tower screw together with a m3x6mm CS screw. I've attached a pic showing the piece.

I would highly suggest that you do not start with the center locker. Having the center locked creates a totally different driving feel and can make the car unforgiving to drive.

Ok I will look for the little spacers. Thank you.

And I will try the spool just to see how it goes. But I have the center diff built and will have it in the toolbox to swap back in, if needed. Was just looking to try a few things for 13.5.

Maybe I missed it, but is there a slipper option?

Is there really a reason for the Carbon Fiber towers and center plate? Well, I know the center plate may allow for a fan in the center. Anyone acutely weight them vs. the stock plastic? Seems like the stock plastic, may hold the bulkheads better?

Probably no legit reason, honestly. I didn't weigh them but not sure if there is much significance in weight. The stock front tower hugs the diff housing with some nice support fittings, where as the carbon tower just sits flat/flush w/o the contour around the mount holes. So all in all probably not an advantage to going to the carbon, in most instances. I honestly just didn't want to upgrade diff gears or do anything like that. So I just did some easy stuff to potentially lighten the car for 13.5. And the spool was just something that I wanted to try, after hearing some good reviews. At the end of the day, at club level, for me it comes down to the driver and the fun. So I just wanted to try a few things.

Back when I used to run the EB410.1 I found it necessary to upgrade to the VRP carbon towers which offered +3mm higher holes which allowed a lower ride height for turf, in addition they added lower holes on the camber link mounts to get a higher roll center than the stock tuning window. The stock plastic towers were not as durable as the carbon towers when taking a nasty wreck you're more likely to snap the plastic towers, seen this happen to lots of folks, and very seldom seen carbon towers break.

In contrast, I'm hearing some folks prefer the extra flex from the plastic towers to get a little more grip on dirt so I think it depends on track condition and what setup you need as to which option makes sense for you.

if the driveline is still the same as the eb410.1, a lot of folks, myself included, did a conversion using the B64 schelle slipper and some driveshafts from what I recall. you can find details about it I am thinking on the old thread, maybe even the wiki.

Yeah all I have done is the RCSS bearings, screws, and turnbuckles. I"m thinking of putting in a B74 slipper or similar just to mess around, plus considering the lighter outdrives. Not sure if the carbon does much or not?

The schelle slipper from what i recall was nice, also very lightweight. The spur gears also were very durable in comparison to the diff-spurs at the time.

On the Gen1 car the carbon towers appeared to be stronger than the plastic with less flex which felt more consistent on higher traction surfaces like carpet and turf.

Trying this with stock towers. Maybtry with the -2mm rear cf and cf front tower

Thanks for that tid bit of info.. I was wondering what that piece was for. I couldn't find it anywhere in the manual. It drove me nuts for about a minute. LOL

I think the plastic diff gears are a great way to save drivetrain weight, cheap and no durability problem in 13.5.
LCG lipo and your done, I think anymore and your wasting cash, spend $ on doing laps instead 👍

Ball stud washers will fix the turnbuckle angles in the rear when adding a carbon shock tower