I have been running them in all 3 diffs for over a year and no failures to this day. I know I don't run as much as some folks but still dont feel any need to change them back. I am running the tekin spec R 13.5 on a medium to high bit clay track.

I love how quiet it is on the track!

I would run the 32p if you are going to run a 4-pole. Like I said, in my ET410 I have had no issues what so ever with that set-up. But keep in mind, my ET has only seen med-grip dirt/clay race track and the occasional parking lot. I would not run the 4-pole with 48p, but that is just me.

Got the 410.2 all finished. Built it mostly to the kit setup except that I opted to put the +1 rear diff. case shim in and both chassis braces.. Other than that the only other changes were the +1 hexes in the front for my Associated wheels, aluminum servo horn and Jconcepts F2 body. I'm heading to the track this Thursday to check it out. Can't wait!

For those who have tried the .1 carbon shock towers, how did you get the rear to work? I reciebed mine (tkr6583c) and the tower has turnbuckle mount holes, the stock .2 does not. The .2 uses the blue backing plate for the turnbuckle stud. The holes from the plate do not line up w the .1 carbon tower either. I thought of bolting the carbon tower right on and not using the blue plate at all but then the turnbuckles do not line up. Any help?

this may help explain better.

What's not lining up? I would think you could just bypass the turnbuckle plate and bolt them right to the tower.

i assume i could just not use the plate. However, if i do that, the turnbuckle is at a weird angle when it is mounted onto both studs. Mainly because its mounted on the front on the tower. So could i flip the stud and the turnbuckle snap onto the back of the tower instead? Hard to explain but i can take a pic, if needed.

I would run the turnbuckles on the back side of the tower and not use the plate if it keeps them somewhat lined up.

here is the turnbuckle installed as the manual calls for, using the carbon tower and no plate. It'll work but i just didn't know if the turnbuckle angle is too extreme. It is less of an angle if the stock .2 tower and plate are installed. But, like you also said, my other idea would be to just run the turnbuckle on the back side of the carbon tower.

I would just flip it. It shouldn't effect it as long as theres clearance.

I flipped it. Everything seems ok. I guess if I had to nip-pick, the wing mount has a notch cut out to compensate for the plate, so there is a gap there, even though it is still tight/secure. So I assume everything is ok. I haven't got to the front yet, hopefully the carbon one works in the front also w/o messing around too much.

Well, I ran 6 or 7 packs thru my EB410.2 this weekend running plastic gears in all 3 diffs with a 8.0 mod motor running some turbo without issue. (Med bite track) Took all 3 diffs apart yesterday to inspect them and all is well so far. If I bust any gears il be sure to update this.

What are you guys all running for upgrades to compete in spec 13.5 class, clay? Center slipper or direct, alum outdrives, graphite udpates? Just wanted to get a flavor of what works for everyone.

thanks,.

I'm not done yet but my buggy is going to be a 13.5 clay car. I'm going to try the Exotek Flite center locker. Other than that, just some carbon parts, shorty servo. I wasn't going to change diff internals or upgrade screws etc. I would have bought an MIP driveline kit but i guess those arent a thing anymore. What were you thinking of doing on yours?

I see you got the front carbon tower on there too now. Did it go on without any issues?