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Old 09-01-2019 | 08:44 PM
  #16  
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You have the right idea to measure current on chassis. This will help you measure current due to acceleration of the dive train and friction. What you wont be able to measure is actual current from accelerating the mass of the car. Good idea though.
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Old 09-01-2019 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by m3rcfh
I was just curious about how you would solder the bullets into the thin wires that come with this amp meter... do I need to replace the wires by a thicker gauge?

There is also the current shunt resistor inside that needs to stay put. That is where the current is going through, the small leads is only measuring the voltage over the shunt resistor
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Old 09-02-2019 | 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Roelof
There is also the current shunt resistor inside that needs to stay put. That is where the current is going through, the small leads is only measuring the voltage over the shunt resistor
Got it, I thought people were getting rid of the fuse circuit and soldering the connector directly into the red/black wire, just keeping the shunt resistor connected between positive and negative. That way you wouldn't need a fuse to make it work.

Is there a specific size of fuse I should use? Or a 30A will be fine?

Last edited by m3rcfh; 09-02-2019 at 04:54 AM. Reason: Adding more info
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Old 09-02-2019 | 04:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Bry195
You have the right idea to measure current on chassis. This will help you measure current due to acceleration of the dive train and friction. What you wont be able to measure is actual current from accelerating the mass of the car. Good idea though.
Not only this will help measure current draw with the drive train friction, but also you can remove the pinion and test the amp draw free of load directly on the chassis, so you can test different amp draws without desoldering
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Old 09-02-2019 | 06:23 AM
  #20  
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No need to use a fuse, unless you are planning to go far beyond the 30A
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Old 09-02-2019 | 07:14 AM
  #21  
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Use a 30 amp fuse that way you have a safety factor in your circuit
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Old 09-02-2019 | 08:12 AM
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I never tried it but I don't think it would work without the fuse.
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Old 09-02-2019 | 11:23 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Andy Koback
I never tried it but I don't think it would work without the fuse.
Explain why you would think that. A fuse is noting more than a wire that melts away when more current is going through it than specified. No fuse will work also but with a shortcut wires will glow up but then again, in a car you do not use a fuse either.....
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Old 09-02-2019 | 11:50 AM
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You would need the fuse to complete the circuit. That's why when a fuse blows, the circuit is broken. I'll have to try it sometime.
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Old 09-02-2019 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Roelof
No need to use a fuse, unless you are planning to go far beyond the 30A
Would you mind explaining? Seems like the negative leg of the fuse tester is not connected, unless you put a fuse in there


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Old 09-02-2019 | 12:36 PM
  #26  
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Ah, I thought you was speaking of the use of a fuse in any type circuit, yes for that divice you need a fuse. 30A or larger will be OK.
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Old 09-02-2019 | 01:02 PM
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This piece is what I was referring to. Now that we're on the same page. -)
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Old 09-02-2019 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Roelof
Ah, I thought you was speaking of the use of a fuse in any type circuit, yes for that divice you need a fuse. 30A or larger will be OK.
Perfect, thank you!
Just had one last question, can I desolder at the fuse plates (where the purple arrows are pointing at) and just solder a piece of 12awg wire with the male/female bullet?
that way I can ditch that whole grey fuse connector and the fuse circuit, for a clean look.

Thanks again


Last edited by m3rcfh; 09-02-2019 at 02:04 PM. Reason: Correct wording
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Old 09-02-2019 | 03:22 PM
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Then you have no protection of your unit. Your still gonna have another wire coming out the side so looking cleaner...not really. This is not for concours btw. -)
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