Tamiya TRF419
#4366
Hey guys, I知 relatively new to to the RC community, and I would like to advance my current knowledge to something a bit more high end. I have built a TA07R recently, and I知 craving for more speed. I知 looking for something that I can rebuild, customize, and tune. Please PM me any details you might have. Thank you!
#4367
Tech Adept
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 208
Hey guys, I知 relatively new to to the RC community, and I would like to advance my current knowledge to something a bit more high end. I have built a TA07R recently, and I知 craving for more speed. I知 looking for something that I can rebuild, customize, and tune. Please PM me any details you might have. Thank you!
Try running the mid motor layout on your ta07 and see if you like it. It's not exactly the same as other others, but mid mounted motors are back in fashion
#4369
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 84
Also it really reduces the slop a lot also,for me a must buy.I would indeed wish that tamiya creates alu ones,or even better durable pllastic ones
Last edited by freaky321; 07-22-2019 at 05:29 PM.
#4370
I run the black Exotek ones for an year now,no problems at all with bending ect with it and it has survived critical hits too
Also it really reduces the slop a lot also,for me a must buy.I would indeed wish that tamiya creates alu ones,or even better durable pllastic ones
Also it really reduces the slop a lot also,for me a must buy.I would indeed wish that tamiya creates alu ones,or even better durable pllastic ones
#4371
Tech Addict
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 556
07 is a very capable platform. As you mentioned you already have a 07R. Why not use it as a base to learn about driving and setup? I have been on the same route before and owned a TA06 Pro, TB04, M05 yet still have to sell them all because they are actually not needed to learn how to race. Eventually I ended up with a 07 pro which helped me break the 15 second barrier at tamiya track....
419 should be a very capable chassis but it is not a good idea to start running on the track thanks to the parts availability nor it is good for bashing as the carbon deck is prone to scratching. Worse thing still is the parts availability especially in the chassis specific parts. The original 419, though has all its carbon fiber parts in 5 digit spare parts system, takes me half a year to get all of the carbon fiber parts. The last thing I bet any driver want to do is to wait for a lower deck to replace the broken one.
419 should be a very capable chassis but it is not a good idea to start running on the track thanks to the parts availability nor it is good for bashing as the carbon deck is prone to scratching. Worse thing still is the parts availability especially in the chassis specific parts. The original 419, though has all its carbon fiber parts in 5 digit spare parts system, takes me half a year to get all of the carbon fiber parts. The last thing I bet any driver want to do is to wait for a lower deck to replace the broken one.
#4372
The upgraded front and rear parts are worth it in my opinion because they dont have as much give and therefore will give a more linear feel. Additionally, the upgraded rear diff is a massive quality of life upgrade because your diff is less likely to leak.
Second, drilling a hole in the damper plastic cap will allow you to create shocks with very little to no rebound effect. Rebound is when the shock rod moves on its own to a settled position based on internal pressure. A dead shock will sit where ever you pull the rod too. Shocks with rebound generally have a different feel than shocks without rebound. Often times this feels like your springs are more stiff than they actually are. My recommendation is to drill the hole and never look back.
Second, drilling a hole in the damper plastic cap will allow you to create shocks with very little to no rebound effect. Rebound is when the shock rod moves on its own to a settled position based on internal pressure. A dead shock will sit where ever you pull the rod too. Shocks with rebound generally have a different feel than shocks without rebound. Often times this feels like your springs are more stiff than they actually are. My recommendation is to drill the hole and never look back.
How much weight did the alloy rear diff add? I have never really had any leaking issues with mine but the idea it will keep the temp down and the feel more consistently the same during a run would be a bonus.
#4374
Is anyone switching out the ball cups? if so did you change the ball studs to do it? also if you switched either what brand did you switch to.
I switched to associated ball cups and studs but they seem to wear out very fast. I only switched to have a hole in the ball cup I know Tamiya made some now but I assume some people have found a choice that works already
I switched to associated ball cups and studs but they seem to wear out very fast. I only switched to have a hole in the ball cup I know Tamiya made some now but I assume some people have found a choice that works already
#4376
Is anyone switching out the ball cups? if so did you change the ball studs to do it? also if you switched either what brand did you switch to.
I switched to associated ball cups and studs but they seem to wear out very fast. I only switched to have a hole in the ball cup I know Tamiya made some now but I assume some people have found a choice that works already
I switched to associated ball cups and studs but they seem to wear out very fast. I only switched to have a hole in the ball cup I know Tamiya made some now but I assume some people have found a choice that works already
Tamiya #54868 and #54869.
Studs I use kit ones or Tamiya #54208, 54209 and 54648.
Bombproof!

#4377
I'm sceptical...




They are now available to buy, but I'm not convinced to replace all my old ones with these.
I think, these will only slowly prevail with the next generation of vehicles.
No axle balls anymore, therefore pivot is now 100% the suspension arm itself...





They are now available to buy, but I'm not convinced to replace all my old ones with these.
I think, these will only slowly prevail with the next generation of vehicles.
No axle balls anymore, therefore pivot is now 100% the suspension arm itself...
#4379
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,126
From: La Mirada, CA
These are great. You'll be able to narrow the rear and tune the roll center like you can't with the old mounts that only go down to 5.5mm 5mm (sorry). Don't discount how much of an effect these can have.
Last edited by ittjv; 07-25-2019 at 10:25 PM.



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