Serpent Project 4-X
#826
Tech Elite

Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,057
From: Chatham Ontario Canada
LOL, I'm not happy about the "when" part since I assume it will be a sometime before my Canadian LHS can even order it from from a US distributor but at least it's coming. It's a very attractive upgrade for the 4x although I think there is still a lot that can be better on the car (the servo mount and position is my biggest gripe).
#828
Wow, today I tested the Magnesium Flex chassis instead of my CF one... Love the feeling. The grip was nice and the car was more predictable than before...
Still, I need more cornerspeed now, and I have to idea where to start with that... Should I try harder springs on roll-dampers? or softer? Help!
Still, I need more cornerspeed now, and I have to idea where to start with that... Should I try harder springs on roll-dampers? or softer? Help!
#829
Wow, today I tested the Magnesium Flex chassis instead of my CF one... Love the feeling. The grip was nice and the car was more predictable than before...
Still, I need more cornerspeed now, and I have to idea where to start with that... Should I try harder springs on roll-dampers? or softer? Help!
Still, I need more cornerspeed now, and I have to idea where to start with that... Should I try harder springs on roll-dampers? or softer? Help!
#831
This chassis design is very interesting. I like anything unique. Is it easy to work? Do you feel it has an advantage over the standard design chassis (kits)? I would love to hear your input and thoughts.
#834
Mine is very promising, I just order some other springs to experiment the new roll centers... Clearly, the PRO is working way better than the first version (not tested the EVO).
By the way, conversion kits are on the way, there seem to be two of them:
- Upgrade set 4X EVO to 4X PRO (SER401805), about 100€
- Upgrade set rear 4X EVO to 4X PRO (SER401806), about 60€
So full upgrade or the rear only...
By the way, conversion kits are on the way, there seem to be two of them:
- Upgrade set 4X EVO to 4X PRO (SER401805), about 100€
- Upgrade set rear 4X EVO to 4X PRO (SER401806), about 60€
So full upgrade or the rear only...
#836
After having been out of the game for a WHILE (Let’s just say that my last EP TC was a TC3), seeing footage of some TC races recently has really gotten me hyped to take up the hobby again! Having always been an Associated guy, one side of me says to just get a TC 7.2, but I have to admit that the design of the 4x Pro has caught my attention. Given that my last Nitro TC was a Serpent Impulse, I’m still being somewhat brand loyal - and hey, I’m in Serpent America’s Backyard, so I’m happy to help support a local business in the process, especially given how Serpent has been the local favorite Nitro brand For at least 30 years down here.
Anyway, I was just wondering how difficult it is to wrap your head around this car? After seeing some videos, I think I get the idea behind how the heave and roll assemblies work together (I honestly haven’t seen anything this exotic since the days of the Veteq) but am wondering how it’s working out in the real world with you guys at the club level?
one other concept that is a bit foreign to me is the idea of chassis flex. Call me old school, but back in my day, you wanted the chassis as stiff as possible to let the suspension do the work. Now I see that some cars (including the 4x) have graphite, aluminum, and now even Magnesium options. How does chassis flex play a role in the setup of this car, and what’s the general rule for using a specific chassis. Is it worth having the optional center brace to stiffen it up in the center? Is that vertical brace that was on the EVO even an option to use on the Pro?
I went through as much of the 52 pages as I could, but being how the 4x is on it’s 3rd iteration, and with the Pro only recently coming to market, any advice would be appreciated.
Anyway, I was just wondering how difficult it is to wrap your head around this car? After seeing some videos, I think I get the idea behind how the heave and roll assemblies work together (I honestly haven’t seen anything this exotic since the days of the Veteq) but am wondering how it’s working out in the real world with you guys at the club level?
one other concept that is a bit foreign to me is the idea of chassis flex. Call me old school, but back in my day, you wanted the chassis as stiff as possible to let the suspension do the work. Now I see that some cars (including the 4x) have graphite, aluminum, and now even Magnesium options. How does chassis flex play a role in the setup of this car, and what’s the general rule for using a specific chassis. Is it worth having the optional center brace to stiffen it up in the center? Is that vertical brace that was on the EVO even an option to use on the Pro?
I went through as much of the 52 pages as I could, but being how the 4x is on it’s 3rd iteration, and with the Pro only recently coming to market, any advice would be appreciated.
#837
Tech Elite

Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,057
From: Chatham Ontario Canada
After having been out of the game for a WHILE (Let’s just say that my last EP TC was a TC3), seeing footage of some TC races recently has really gotten me hyped to take up the hobby again! Having always been an Associated guy, one side of me says to just get a TC 7.2, but I have to admit that the design of the 4x Pro has caught my attention. Given that my last Nitro TC was a Serpent Impulse, I’m still being somewhat brand loyal - and hey, I’m in Serpent America’s Backyard, so I’m happy to help support a local business in the process, especially given how Serpent has been the local favorite Nitro brand For at least 30 years down here.
Anyway, I was just wondering how difficult it is to wrap your head around this car? After seeing some videos, I think I get the idea behind how the heave and roll assemblies work together (I honestly haven’t seen anything this exotic since the days of the Veteq) but am wondering how it’s working out in the real world with you guys at the club level?
one other concept that is a bit foreign to me is the idea of chassis flex. Call me old school, but back in my day, you wanted the chassis as stiff as possible to let the suspension do the work. Now I see that some cars (including the 4x) have graphite, aluminum, and now even Magnesium options. How does chassis flex play a role in the setup of this car, and what’s the general rule for using a specific chassis. Is it worth having the optional center brace to stiffen it up in the center? Is that vertical brace that was on the EVO even an option to use on the Pro?
I went through as much of the 52 pages as I could, but being how the 4x is on it’s 3rd iteration, and with the Pro only recently coming to market, any advice would be appreciated.
Anyway, I was just wondering how difficult it is to wrap your head around this car? After seeing some videos, I think I get the idea behind how the heave and roll assemblies work together (I honestly haven’t seen anything this exotic since the days of the Veteq) but am wondering how it’s working out in the real world with you guys at the club level?
one other concept that is a bit foreign to me is the idea of chassis flex. Call me old school, but back in my day, you wanted the chassis as stiff as possible to let the suspension do the work. Now I see that some cars (including the 4x) have graphite, aluminum, and now even Magnesium options. How does chassis flex play a role in the setup of this car, and what’s the general rule for using a specific chassis. Is it worth having the optional center brace to stiffen it up in the center? Is that vertical brace that was on the EVO even an option to use on the Pro?
I went through as much of the 52 pages as I could, but being how the 4x is on it’s 3rd iteration, and with the Pro only recently coming to market, any advice would be appreciated.
I think a mid motor conversion would be a mega huge improvement on the 4x platform - far more significant than it would be on standard TC's. The mass is low on the 4x but more spread out vs even Standard TC's so a mid conversion could really help this car.
#838
Hmm, interesting perspective - thanks for the insight! I too hope that Serpent continues development of the car. I already saw a few things shared by Felix Law that already appears to be an option part for the Pro Kit, so that’s a good sign. I saw quite a bit of information on the Awesomatix as well - in part, it’s why I found it interesting that Serpent took a similar “low CG” approach, rather than continue development of the more conventionally designed S411 they had before it.
After seeing a few videos on how the dampening/roll works on that car - holy cow, talk about wrapping your head around it! While I have no doubts to its performance, it does seem very finicky to tune... then again, the results speak for themselves.
Anyway, the local Serpent community down here has always been really supportive (at least on the Nitro side), and even if it’s not that prolific, I wouldn’t mind sharing what I learn with others.
After seeing a few videos on how the dampening/roll works on that car - holy cow, talk about wrapping your head around it! While I have no doubts to its performance, it does seem very finicky to tune... then again, the results speak for themselves.
Anyway, the local Serpent community down here has always been really supportive (at least on the Nitro side), and even if it’s not that prolific, I wouldn’t mind sharing what I learn with others.
#839
Tech Elite

Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,057
From: Chatham Ontario Canada
The only part of the car that exceeds my tolerance for finickyness are the roll dampers. It's difficult to get and keep air out of those little suckers. I now run my car with only "lubricated" roll dampers and have had good success doing so. This change made me quite happy with the car. You can get away with it because the heave dampers always end up doing most of the damping anyway (roll is never completely isolated from heave). Not everyone will agree with this idea so just consider it an option if the roll dampers are driving you bananas - it's very easy to try.
#840
Interesting as the main advantage of a mid motor conversion is the rear flex and the weight bias... I find that this car already have a lot of steering, I don't need more. But once again mid motor efficiency depends directly from the surface you are racing with your car. On Black carpet Pac-man tracks, this could be a huge improvement, on open med-grip asphalt, I'm pretty sure you get nothing...





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