Is an aluminum chassis pretty much required to be competitive in mod?

Any thoughts on the Z-Flex chassis from CRC?

The aluminum chassis is nice, but not absolutely necessary. I've found that it's actually more useful in stock than modified.

The Z-flex did well in my one outing with it so far!

I am really interested to try the 1:12 Class (GT) but there a few things I cant get my head around and which I dont want to accept Any chance we have a work around for some of my points?

> Does it have to be 1S? I have a perfectly fine 1/10 setup and lot of electronics, servos and ESCs to spare. I dont want to buy a complete new electronics set (Mainly ESC and Batteries)
> I dont want to grind (correct word? dunno) my tires. I would have a friend that could help me with that, but its a lot of work and i just want to have fun
> I heared I need to have 4-5 sets of tires, because I cant sauce one set that often (something about the foam wont hold up that much saucing?
> I hear that most of 1/12 are a lot of work tweaking. I am not a bad driver, neither a good one. I will crash, sometimes badly My TC7 takes its fair share and doesnt complain. Every few runs I set it new up and its perfectly good to go with 15mins of work.

What car would you recommend? I dont need new stuff, used is perfectly fine. I am an Asso guy btw (Drive a B6.1, SC6.1, TC7 and F6)

Thanks guys

Yeah, jumping to 1s, kinda sucks. You'll need a new esc with an internal booster, or run an external booster extra. Which is a bit of a pain. I'd just get a new esc, it's easier.

If you have a good little servo, you can still use it. But 1/12th scale needs a super high quality servo. I use a KO Propo rsx-12.

Tire truing takes about 30 minutes to master. You'll be an expert in no time. Many of the tracks I know of, have a truer room available to racers. It's possibly one of the more rewarding chores in rc. I hate gluing off road tires and making on road bodies. Truing foam tires is fun. I take 2 sets of tires to the track for a club day. They're cheap and your going to burn them up anyways. Spec tire rules, purple stripe usually, has reduced costs a ton.

1/12th scale is the easiest race car to maintain. Once you know what you're doing. At first it might be overwhelming, as it's a detail type of chassis, and most of the tuning is exactly backwards of other rc cars. But it gets easy quickly. TC's are a PITA, but nothing is worse than tearing down and cleaning a nitrobuggy.

Thanks for the awesome Infos! Sadly it's like I feared. I carry so much stuff and spares it would be very nice to just use all I have in my F6 to try the Pancar class. Won't afford anything else except a roller at the moment. Maybe I can find a X12 from 2015 or so to buy as package deal so you got everything....

If I were you I'd buy a proper GT12 car like the Zen RXGT, simpler, stronger design that requires way less maintenance and spare parts. Run it kit setup. Shame you aren't in the UK as you can just buy your foams pre cut from Zen racing too.

Looks like a decent kit, never heard of them before. Ordering from UK shouldn't be too much of an hassle I think?

I'm pretty sure it will be easy enough. My friend runs his RXGT in LMP and GT12. It seems easy to drive and robust. I had one previously and it certainly took a lot less maintenance than my Yokomo.

[QUOTE=man1ac;15393216]I am really interested to try the 1:12 Class (GT) but there a few things I cant get my head around and which I dont want to accept Any chance we have a work around for some of my points?

> Does it have to be 1S? I have a perfectly fine 1/10 setup and lot of electronics, servos and ESCs to spare. I dont want to buy a complete new electronics set (Mainly ESC and Batteries) 2s, 21.5 is a possibility. They run them in Japan, as well as other countries, check with your local club if you choose to race.
> I dont want to grind (correct word? dunno) my tires. I would have a friend that could help me with that, but its a lot of work and i just want to have fun. If you run outdoor, full size tires may be ok. A truer is a good investment.
> I heared I need to have 4-5 sets of tires, because I cant sauce one set that often (something about the foam wont hold up that much saucing? I clean my tires after every run with no issues. You'll eventually acquire a lot of tires. lol
> I hear that most of 1/12 are a lot of work tweaking. I am not a bad driver, neither a good one. I will crash, sometimes badly My TC7 takes its fair share and doesnt complain. Every few runs I set it new up and its perfectly good to go with 15mins of work. I have yet to break anything on my 1/12. If I do have a bad crash, I'll put it on the gages, and check a few other things. It only takes a few minutes.

What car would you recommend? I dont need new stuff, used is perfectly fine. I am an Asso guy btw (Drive a B6.1, SC6.1, TC7 and F6) Go with what you personally like that has good parts availability. Generally 1/12 parts are cheap.

Thanks guys

What about the Supastox? The distributor in Germany is like 30min drive away?

Significantly slower and less fun. The main issue with normal 12th cars I've found is pod tweaking and on non yokomo cars having to deal with shimming the front end as springs wear.
It's not a huge amount of work but if you really don't want to deal with it then it might annoy you.

The other thing to look although is what is popular in your area. Roche is seen everywhere across Europe. Tonisport have everything you need.

I've worked harder and longer on touring car stuff than 1/12. If you're racing stock you may only have to re-charge the batteries, sauce the tires, and go again.

If you want to go 1/12 racing, just get a car and assemble it right, make sure everything moves free. The cars are extremely simple, even more so with a spool running on carpet.