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Old 09-13-2018, 07:50 AM
  #976  
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Originally Posted by rccartips
Tamiya 414 versus Yokomo BD8 2018

One on one battle between a Tamiya 414 (grey car) with a front one-way and Dodge Stratus body against a Yokomo BD8 2018. THE OLD CAR WAS NOT COMPETITIVE

Tamiya 414 - 14.8s/lap
Yokomo BD8 2018 - 13s/lap

https://youtu.be/RvzPC1xbNOI
The 414 seems to be slow transitioning left to right while understeering. I would try to lower the cg as much as possible , shift all of the weight forward(weights on front bumper), and put heavier swaybars front and rear(contrary to popular belief)...It does not take much to knock down 1.8sec, but you will still need to make the car hold the fast line for most of the run.....
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Old 09-13-2018, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by MatsNorway
What kind of parts do you need? Im sure you can find someone to 3D print them Just need a bunch(as in alot) of good measurements.
Good thing about old x-rays (& many older cars) is they are super tough! Haven't broken anything in a while, but the driveshafts, outdrives, pulleys etc all suffer from the normal amount of wear. I will be running the car for the outdoor winter season and possibly all of next year if it holds up.
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Old 09-13-2018, 08:40 AM
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Remember to lubricate the CVD joints. :P I never knew! until recently. i too had a FK05 once. Perhaps my favorite "pro" touring car i have ever had.
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Old 09-13-2018, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by MatsNorway
Remember to lubricate the CVD joints. :P I never knew! until recently. i too had a FK05 once. Perhaps my favorite "pro" touring car i have ever had.
So I saw this just receintly. That people were oiling the CV joint. But mine I put that shrink wrap over the joint to keep dirt out. I will try and oil them now that I know this is something to do. It is the one part on the car that you WILL go through.. and does cost money.

James
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:38 AM
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Saw it in a Schumacher manual and went.. damn it.. i mean.. it is a joint so it is not rocket science and i dislike having an oily car but combine that with your shrinkwrap and it should last longer for sure. Get some thick oil meant for slow moving parts tho.
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by LzREngineering
I've been running my customized fk'05 in the BRCA Clubman's championship 17.5t this year, and ok I haven't exactly been anywhere near the top of the leader boards (mostly due to other factors such as electronics & tyre prep which I've been steadily improving) but the chassis has been incredibly reliable and quite quick!! Beating many t4s & ARCs. The new custom chassis helped a lot with balance & flex, improving lap times significantly.
I also found the car pushed a lot with the spool so have been using the multi diff in one way mode.
Of course, as spares dry up I will probably have to change to a newer chassis eventually, but until then the fk'05 is still going strong!!
Thats great to hear! I am guessing you made the chassis yourself? I'm sure everyone here would love to see a pic of it, including me!
Funny you mention switching the Multidiff to one way mode I was just thinking about trying that haha before I go back to the ball diff. Would a regular or locked one way be better for CRC black carpet? I am thinking locked for stability but not sure...
Keep us updated!
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Old 09-13-2018, 12:02 PM
  #982  
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Originally Posted by Bikerbob
So I saw this just receintly. That people were oiling the CV joint. But mine I put that shrink wrap over the joint to keep dirt out. I will try and oil them now that I know this is something to do. It is the one part on the car that you WILL go through.. and does cost money.

James
I rebuild the CVs after almost every race, especially if the track's a bit dusty. I recently started using WAHL clipper oil (light oil which I use on bearings) on the CVs and it seems to attract much less dirt than grease. Ive been trying to figure out a way of making some kind of rubber boot for them; unlike on other cars, the xray t1 cvs are inside the axle so you can't just put heatshrink around them.

Originally Posted by Nitrofish48
Thats great to hear! I am guessing you made the chassis yourself? I'm sure everyone here would love to see a pic of it, including me!
Funny you mention switching the Multidiff to one way mode I was just thinking about trying that haha before I go back to the ball diff. Would a regular or locked one way be better for CRC black carpet? I am thinking locked for stability but not sure...
Keep us updated!
Here's an old-ish pic, I've made a few minor changes since. I've not tried the solid one-way, to me it seems like the worst of both worlds as you get no front brakes whilst still getting a fair bit of drag through corners. Regular one way should be good, all the guys running spools will give you funny looks but you will be able to out turn anything!

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Old 09-13-2018, 01:39 PM
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Ah yeah that makes sense now that you say it. I appreciate the advice on the standard one way, for sure going to give that a try the next time I hit the track. Lol, everyone will think its 2005 again

Wow that chassis looks amazing! Thinner it seems? What thickness CF did you go with? I also have the MyLaps sensor in my bumper haha nice touch.

Have you had any problems with the derelin axles mushrooming on you? (not sure if that is how you spell it) Like I said in my first post I bought a couple sets of the spring steel axles to get rid of the problem all together. I saw another thread where someone dremeled out the ridges on the inside and they said that prevented the mushrooming but I tried that and it did not seem to work...probably did it wrong haha. Just curious of your opinion on that.
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Old 09-13-2018, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rccartips
Tamiya 414 versus Yokomo BD8 2018

One on one battle between a Tamiya 414 (grey car) with a front one-way and Dodge Stratus body against a Yokomo BD8 2018. THE OLD CAR WAS NOT COMPETITIVE

Tamiya 414 - 14.8s/lap
Yokomo BD8 2018 - 13s/lap

https://youtu.be/RvzPC1xbNOI
was that the yokomo making the scraping sounds?
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Old 09-13-2018, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Speed Chaser
was that the yokomo making the scraping sounds?
Yes, ride height probably too low.
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Old 09-13-2018, 06:03 PM
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Oh ok, that makes sense I thought at first it was the 414 since it has a wide chassis compare to modern touring chassis but then notice it was the blue car making the sound just had to double check lol.
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Old 09-13-2018, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitrofish48
Wow that chassis looks amazing! Thinner it seems? What thickness CF did you go with? I also have the MyLaps sensor in my bumper haha nice touch.
Yes it's a 2mm chassis and top deck. The lower deck is actually fairy stiff as it's almost solid, whereas I put a lot of holes in the top deck plus it's on shims so flex can be adjusted by changing shims and screws.

Originally Posted by Nitrofish48
Have you had any problems with the derelin axles mushrooming on you? (not sure if that is how you spell it) Like I said in my first post I bought a couple sets of the spring steel axles to get rid of the problem all together. I saw another thread where someone dremeled out the ridges on the inside and they said that prevented the mushrooming but I tried that and it did not seem to work...probably did it wrong haha. Just curious of your opinion on that.
I did have mushrooming on the front axles after a few big crashes ( back in 2005/6) but after grinding down the axles to get them out and chamfering the inner edge it's no longer a problem. The steel axles look pretty great though, very rare!

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Old 09-14-2018, 12:52 AM
  #988  
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Hey rccartips; good lap/race footage. I see you're still have'n fun.

I want my daughter to take a video of some laps during the next Fastest-Lap Challenge; with me run'n the Tamiya TB Evolution 5 and HPI Pro 4.

Thanks for the idea. Take Care
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Old 09-14-2018, 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by GuyIsDamGood
Hey rccartips; good lap/race footage. I see you're still have'n fun.

I want my daughter to take a video of some laps during the next Fastest-Lap Challenge; with me run'n the Tamiya TB Evolution 5 and HPI Pro 4.

Thanks for the idea. Take Care
I just use a cellphone and cellphone tripod to record, I am the one recording, it is my daughter who is racing
Excited to see your videos.
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Old 09-14-2018, 07:13 AM
  #990  
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Originally Posted by LzREngineering
I rebuild the CVs after almost every race, especially if the track's a bit dusty. I recently started using WAHL clipper oil (light oil which I use on bearings) on the CVs and it seems to attract much less dirt than grease. Ive been trying to figure out a way of making some kind of rubber boot for them; unlike on other cars, the xray t1 cvs are inside the axle so you can't just put heatshrink around them.
Sculpture / animal baloons. They are small enough diameter that they should fit on the outdrive. I believe they are latex, so you'll need to use a non-sillicone oil, but that's not a really difficult task.
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