Hi everyone,

I'd like to start my post by thanking everybody who already posted something helpful here before. It's incredible how much experience and knowledge you guys have of the ET48. I loved to read myself through this thread in the last couple of days (to the disadvantage of my wife who haven’t received much attention . In the past I just had a HPI 1:8 Ken Block GRC 2013 WR8 Nitro basher and like 20 years ago an electric Tamiya 1:10 AMG Mercedes Benz C-Class DTM D2 - to sum it up, I’m not pro like you guys . But I'd like to get back into the hobby a bit more serious now after I've discovered all the fine tuning options modern electric rc cars come with. I am a complete perfectionist and love how detail-oriented some of you guys are in terms of setting up your rc cars.

Next week I've planned to start building the ET48.3 kit which just arrived today. I plan to run 2x 2S LiPos connected in series (2x 2S LIPO HV Team Orion Carbon Pro V-Max 7600mAh 7.6V 110C Deans as well as 2x 2S LIPO Team Orion Carbon Pro 8000 mAh 7.4V 90C Deans) with it as I already have got them (originally ordered the HPI Vorza Flux which I’ve sent back today after discovering this thread/forum here . My ET48.3 should be race ready for our outdoor dirt track nearby. Currently I don’t plan to participate in any serious competitions (who knows what the future will bring) but love hot-lapping in order to get the best possible lap time for myself. Due to my perfectionism I’d like to get the top notch hardware but don’t like to exaggerate it i.e. I won’t blow away $800 for just a radio even though I don’t really have a budget.

Anyway, after all the blabla lets get to my actual questions: Could you please have a look at my list of planned purchases for the ET48.3 and let me know:

1) what could be optimised (i.e. newer top notch hardware which has been already tested and is proven to be better than the listed items)

2) if it all works well together, maybe known issues with the combination etc

3) any advise or valuable extra’s I should put into the car when I will build it?

Body: Leadfinger Racing Assassin Body ET48
ESC: Tekin RX8 GEN3 + Tekin Hotwire 3.0
Motor: Tekin T8 GEN2 Truggy 2000kV
Radio: Sanwa MT-44
Receiver: Sanwa RX-482
Servo: Futuba S9373SV
Pinion: 16t

I haven’t made myself familiar with the various diff oils, shocks and tires/wheels yet. If anybody can give me a recommendation that would go together I would highly appreciate it. If not, no problem as I will start to make myself familiar with this topic in the next couple of days as well. Thanks a lot in advance in case anyone makes the effort to reply .

44T is for both buggy and truggy....Believe the 46t was for the nitro?

Thanks that makes sense, we picked up an ET48.2 used and it had the 46T setup. Guess we will get the correct setup with the composite 44T.

Did not even cross my mind to heck the manual. We were doing the diffs, and noticed it was different than the EB setup we have.

Thanks again.

I know there is a ton of info in here and I plan on reading it...probably read 30 or so random pages already. I assume it was started at the first ET48 and has advanced since then.

I am about to order a kit and would like to know the best upgrades I should order right off the bat since I will be building this from the ground up and may as well add them then.

Thanks in advance and I apologize for asking for repeat answers but it's hard to find in the stack of 350+ pages....really like reading Overkills build.

Aluminum Servo horn.

Aluminum rear driveshaft

full aluminum motor mount.


In order of need.....The last one is a just because for me.

Some also do the CF Servo mount.

Awesome! Will order them. Just got my kit today.

I am putting my kit together right now and I have a question about the front diff, the that is on and angle. Is it not supposed to spin as freely and smoothly as the rear diff? My rear diff is buttery smooth but no matter what I do I cant get the front one to be as smooth and I was wondering if it's because of the angle it is on. The rear is straight.

I have 2 shims on gears side with a little bit of play on the front and no shims on the back with a little bit of play.

The front doesn't grind or bind I would say but it is louder than the rear.

So I took the front completely apart, cleaned out the grease and put a shim on both sides and it's much smoother now. It's still louder than the rear but I'm chalking that up to the pinion angle and both gears bring metal. It spins smooth with a slight noise.

I'm almost done building my first Tekno kit. Any idea if I can connect the fan for the RX8 Gen3 at the same time with the Hotwire 3.0? Is there any adapter/cable available that I can run both at the same time? I don't want to plug/unplug the Hotwire all the time I'd like to use it.

I don't believe this is possible from what I remember reading about the hotwire working with a splice. You'll have to make adjustments without a fan on the ESC and then once it's set to your liking pull the hotwire out and run the fan.

Meh okay. Thanks a lot for the information. I guess then the hotwire will be only plugged in to make ESC changes and there is no point having it permanently installed in the car as I planned initially.

I love Tekno products and love the look of this kit. How good would this be for someone as the first truggy build? I want a truck that lasts and performs and dont want to wait for parts from Japan if something breaks or needs upgraded.

Thanks

For me it was the first kit as I had just RTR‘s before and it was very easy to build. The instructions are very clear and don‘t leave room for much mistakes. I canjust highly recommend it as a kit for beginners like me. Just find out if there are online shops in your country which sell spare parts.

I think this kit is a great build. If you have built other kits this will be a smooth build, even if you haven't the instructions are clear and easy to follow. The truck itself is fun and very durable and handles great

can this body be used on the ET48?

https://www.fiercercsolutions.com/Le...?categoryId=-1