What is a decent amp draw? At that setting (45-48°) my amp draw was only at 1.5A

in 1* increments you'll see your amp draw increase significantly with not a lot of RPM or KV change. In general right around 1.8-a little over 2-2.2 amp on the Trinity Motorlyzer on 2cl tests not a 1cl battery

As Freebird says we don't set for amp draw we set for max RPM/KV without drastic jumps in amp draw. Mine was drawing about 2.05 amps

Here is my setup from the ROAR Carpet Nats: XRAY ::: Set-up Sheet - X1'18

Got the alum chassis on my ride for the state race this weekend. Excited to run it.

I see what you mean. Had the motor on my dyno last night.

Motor @
52° - 15,800 rpm - 4.3A
49° - 15,000 rpm - 2.5A

Only gained 800rpm's but the amps jumped more than a point. I set it at 49° and will gear from here.

Thanks

Can anyone tell me if Xray ‘18 part number 371077 will fit the ‘17?

I installed the Fenix tapeless conversion. It's really good.

http://www.fenixracingshop.com/index...roller=product

I got something similar custom cut from SavageCanadian. I love it. Allows you to adjust battery position a little. I have mine pushed forward against the body post mount to centralize mass a little more, which I couldn't do without the battery brace.

48 to 64 multiply by 1.3333
64 to 48 multiply by 0.75

Thanks for the info. I too was looking at PSM tapeless conversion but I realized this morning I don’t want the extra weight on that end of the car and at the end of the day the parts and shipping cost make it not worth while for me. It looks trick for sure but I don’t mind tape that much and a roll of tape will last longer than I own the car.

Need a little bit of help, took my car out for the first time this weekend. On black carpet I'm getting rear wheel hop when coming around corners while on slight power. Everything else feels good so far.

This maybe normal, as this is my first time running the car.

What tires are you using? Traction compound?

What damping grease/oil are you using in the side tubes and top shock?

For practice I go light on the traction compound, I do a full application and cleaning of the rear tires with traction compound (SXT 3.0), and a third (inner edge) application, let it soak for a minute or two as you get the body on and walk to the track, then wipe the entire tire clean just before hitting the track.

For races, timing is important, but practice I don't time the application. Apply, clean, wipe and hit the track.

I have found that too much rear soak can give some chatter mid corner. I am still trying to figure out the timing for application in racing.

Tires - Gravity G spec I think. They came with the car.
Sauce - SXT 3.0
Side pods are factory 2016 so they are the fixed style.
Top shock is 40 weight. Losi Oil.
Side shock is also 40 weight. Losi oil.

I never thought about timing on the traction compound. I usually just apply, clean and no soak. I need to pay more attention to the timing of apply sauce vs when I get chatter.

This is just flat wrong
For example, you can get an 80 tooth spur in either pitch, and would therefore run the same pinion on either gear, just different pitch

Gear ratio = spur/pinion
so if 64p is 100/40 lets say, = 2.5
the 48p spur you're trying to match is say, 90T 48P
90/2.5=36 - you run a 36 tooth pinion to get the same ratio
(40*.75=30 you would be 6 teeth off in this case)

All we mean by gear ratio is how many motor rotations it takes for one rotation of the spur gear, you have to spin a 40 tooth pinion 2.5 times to rotate a 100 tooth spur gear one time

I could have used it this weekend at a State Race, my tape came off my battery and was making my car handle crappy. I know it cost me a couple positions, my car was $$, I