exactly! People will say they hate this brand and that brand. Thats the beauty of it all, you can choose what your run and who you support. Mugen, TLR, Associated, Traxxas, etc, all names that not everyone likes.

Does anyone know the size of the dog bone pins on this car? I like to change before they get to worn.

3mm

Soooo many fkn snowflakes, if it was cpt c/race or another top driver with heaps of fan boys that turned off someone's radio then very little would be said about it, same with the stickers, its only because JQ done it that all the snowflakes are crying, get over it people.

I love the JQ car, and time and time again people have said to drop it and get back on subject..

There are a few of us that run in BC and Washington state. I’m not able to make the big barn race but I’ll do my best. I think Chuck will be running the LV edition.

LV has a good group of guys that run the BE and will be a nice turn out!

Speaking of LV who's going to Socal nitro shootout? And silverstate? I'm almost done building my BE. Can't wait to run it this weekend.

Had to pull the old white edition body off the wall! Needed to see it more complete lol

JQ attendance on RCsignup for the Canadian Big Barn race has just increased by 100%.

Coog, I'll see you Monday, or Tuesday, or something like that.

LOL

I just got my second black edition in the mail. Its the spec Q. I took the center diff out to confirm something I've noticed when building the kit. Now this may not bother some and I'm not saying its an "issue". However I am very anal as some say when I build/rebuild my stuff. Now I noticed this first in the white edition, and looked for the issue when building my first black edition. What ive noticed is the center diff doesnt spin (on my kits) nearly as free as it could. Now some people are gonna say b.s. blah blah blah. The thing is, this is a good thing. It means if you care the car could be juuussssst a hair better (smoother/more efficient). What I've noticed is the top half of the diff holder (really the middle, but top of the bearing holder) is the "issue". There's a tiny section (last pic) that isn't as big of an opening as the rest (almost oval). On my cars this is where ive measured the smallest diameter. Now the measurements say it should be good. However I cannot slide the bearing into its home. I did get one half on my 2nd BE that was fine. The bearing slid in perfectly. The smallest part of that bearing holder was 16.10mm with rest being entirely 16.15. What I've done is used my drill press with a tiny stone bit with 90 degree edges (there's a lip that keeps the diff in place by the bearing so be careful), on the lowest speed I've "messaged" the part and measured. Until I get the bearing to juuuuust slide in. After I've got it everything back together I can clearly see it spins much more free. And I know for a fact once I break the car in the bearings will free up even more. I think with some extra attention to detail this car has the potential to be one of the most fuel effecient cars. The angles on the center driveline are small and should be very efficient. I will eventually swap to metal sheilded bearings for a little less drag as well. Anyway your kits may be perfect. If so great! But the next time your in there you may just see if you can slide the bearings in. Thats the easiest way to know if they are getting crushed by the upper diff half. I hope this may help someone.

This is the bit I use so I can get to the material closest to the lip without damaging the lip. I go slow and measure often. The last thing I would want is my diff flopping around in the holder. Not only is that not efficient but your bound to break something. All you want is to be able to tighten the top plate very snug without putting so much pressure on the bearings. Like I said before the front half of the second kit was perfect and I tightend the crap out of it to make sure. So some may not have a problem at all. Ahh! Can't wait to race this thing. So cal nitro shootout anyone??

Fast Pirate Ive seen that with 1 or 2 diffs also solved by a shim but you have figured it out and thanks for sharing your trick to free it up. We have a few guys going to Silver State and not sure about the Socal Shootout but. If anybody has any questions about the JQ car or are interested please email me [email protected] or also look us up on or FB pages the team is growing and we have a great bunch of guys running the cars all over the world. I like to say be apart of a team and not just a number !

A shim would definitely be a quicker way to do it the first time around. Or if you don't have the tools to do this. But I hate fumbling with shims. Especially if I'm in a rush.

Building my BE now and I encountered some kind of a problem. How do you properly shim ? This is regarding shimming the gears inside the diff. As per Manual you have to put 2 shims each under the big sun gear. Doing so make the diff very tight. I did 1 each under the Sun Gear. Feels ok but not sure cause I feel its too loose for a 10K diff oil. This is for the front diff.