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JQ RACING - The Black Edition

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Old 07-22-2019, 10:06 AM
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will get a setup sheet posted here of what I was running for some tuning advise, but to give quick update:

Track conditions were much dryer than we had before, not having a monsoon probably helps lol.

I really liked the all around performance for our dirt of the James Racing Dot Evo tires so ended up going with those as they felt consistent when you were in the line as well as out of the line, and wih the track having a fine layer of dust by the time we got to run it bit through it. The track also likes old schooll tires at times like Panther gators, bowties, etc. buddy was laying down great laptimes with bowties in X4.

Ended up taking 3rd in E buggy just behind my buddy and 4th in nitro, flame outs will kill ya!

RIght now the one thing I want to work on for my nitro is the clutch setup. Still new to this, car was setup with 3 shoe stock from what I can tell, which when was having some spring issues (engagement wayy too soon) was hard finding a spare as stuff I had was for 4 shoe I saved from a tekno.

Anyway, I am looking at different clutch setups, the M2C is one that was brought up as a good one, but in addition to this the Associated $100 clutch setup was mentioned, as well as the usual Reds.

Anyone have a preference and why? The concept of how you can make adjustments on the AE engagement sounded intriguing, but I also wonder how often you really are messing around in there.

Anyone use the M2C?
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Old 07-22-2019, 12:51 PM
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Stock is 3 shoe, most set it up with two 1.1mm springs and one 1.0mm. That should work good. Iíve used the m2c clutch, that one is cool because you can tune the weight of the flywheel if you like to tinker. My favorite aftermarket clutch is the buku, durable and really easy to dial in.
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Old 07-23-2019, 11:31 AM
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cool. Buddy had a brand new buku so will give that a try here once i get a new vented clutchbell to use.
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Old 07-25-2019, 09:19 AM
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any tips you have Dillon71 on the buku, espeically what you recommend for the set screw settings to start? mine is the ABK type with those special shoe pads. Looking forward to seeing how it goes.
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Old 07-25-2019, 08:56 PM
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ok, this is what I do: before you put the clutch on the engine, back out all the set screws just until they start to bind. They are installed in a way to where the screws cannot come out completely. you'll notice slop between all the parts and the shoes flop about easy. tighten the screws only until the slop is gone. now the clutch is at zero. next, tighten the screws X amount of turns further to set preload. I like the feel staggered preload gives, ex: 1.5,2.0,2.5 turns. adjust from there for the track and how aggressive or smooth you want the clutch to feel. Also, it helps to put some sort of a mark on your 1.5mm driver to count rotations.
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Old 07-31-2019, 10:54 AM
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cool thanks, hope to give that a try this coming week.

The biggest thing I need to get used to, and maybe some folks have tips, is how an electric has like a natural drag brake feel to it, very nitros free wheeling.
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Old 07-31-2019, 08:09 PM
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Youíll get used to it. Donít be too worried to use drag brake as it will cause the car to handle erratic and 1/8 cars on out door 1/8 tracks donít need it like, for ex, a 2wd buggy could benefit from it on a tight indoor track. Drag brake will bring down your run time and letís say you race a 20min final at a local event, the brakes will be cooked by the end.
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Old 08-01-2019, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
any tips you have Dillon71 on the buku, espeically what you recommend for the set screw settings to start? mine is the ABK type with those special shoe pads. Looking forward to seeing how it goes.
Cain,
I have been using the Buku on my BE, and it's been great. Easy to setup, consistent and durable. My favorite so far.
I followed Monty's setup advice, and it was on point.

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Old 08-04-2019, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Also, the car seems to get a lot of toe out on longer droop levels.
Not sure if you got a reply to this, but this (bump steer) happens because the steering turnbuckles don't stay parallel with the suspension arms as you move through the travel.
Usually you can use spacers between where the turnbuckle bolts to the ackermann plate and/or the knuckle arm to keep it parallel across the most "useful" (to you) range of the travel.

If you use a knuckle arm link and/or ackermann position which lets you run the steering turnbuckle longer then you'll be able to keep it parallel for more of the travel (and more of the droop), although it can take a while to find the best combo. The spacers are a good first point of attack.
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Old 08-06-2019, 08:54 AM
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cool yeah remember working on bumpsteer from my MBX5 days, seems more excessive on my black edition than grey so will give that a teardown for comparison, maybe some droop limiting is going on inside I am not noticing.
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Old 08-15-2019, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
will get a setup sheet posted here of what I was running for some tuning advise, but to give quick update:

Track conditions were much dryer than we had before, not having a monsoon probably helps lol.

I really liked the all around performance for our dirt of the James Racing Dot Evo tires so ended up going with those as they felt consistent when you were in the line as well as out of the line, and wih the track having a fine layer of dust by the time we got to run it bit through it. The track also likes old schooll tires at times like Panther gators, bowties, etc. buddy was laying down great laptimes with bowties in X4.

Ended up taking 3rd in E buggy just behind my buddy and 4th in nitro, flame outs will kill ya!

RIght now the one thing I want to work on for my nitro is the clutch setup. Still new to this, car was setup with 3 shoe stock from what I can tell, which when was having some spring issues (engagement wayy too soon) was hard finding a spare as stuff I had was for 4 shoe I saved from a tekno.

Anyway, I am looking at different clutch setups, the M2C is one that was brought up as a good one, but in addition to this the Associated $100 clutch setup was mentioned, as well as the usual Reds.

Anyone have a preference and why? The concept of how you can make adjustments on the AE engagement sounded intriguing, but I also wonder how often you really are messing around in there.

Anyone use the M2C?
Look at the WERKS clutch, best I ever used, and lasts a long time. I usually use the light weight flywheel, 4 aluminium shoes with 1,0 springs. if track is loose and low grip, I go down on one or two shoes to 0,9mm springs.
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Old 08-15-2019, 09:17 AM
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ended up with a brand new buku clutch here so will give that a go and look see. Got another leg of a race series next coming weekend so gonna give the cars a tear down and go through get them all ready to go.
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