.3 is really good right now, no plans for a .4 anytime soon. A lot of people run the .4 steering, some run trailing spindles and some don't, that's about it.

instead of a full .4 version, could you guys do a running change to the .4 changes?

We've definitely thought about it, but it would require quite a bit of work for not much of a difference. New manual, maybe a new sku, not everyone like the .4 steering on the truggy or the different spindles, also any shop with old stock won't be happy about a change.

I would love a kind of "race upgrade package" with some smart options like HRC rear hubs, bell cranks, locking shock rod ends, delrin shock cartridge, tini shock shaft, vented shock caps, ...).

I have 450/400 winter oils in my shocks and I'm having trouble with the fronts. Rear end packs up nicely on impact but the front just doesn't. I have built them the same way so what gives, 450 too light with yellow springs?

Yes, 450 front oil is to light, especially running a stiffer F spring. Even though you're trying to go lighter due to it being cold I'd give 550 a try.

450-550 are too light. I'm gonna try 600 next, what a mess. I could probably go with even lower than 400 in the rear though.

where do you run at? What type of track and temps are you dealing with? 400 in the rear is a little light as well, going lower I believe won't be good.

I am really struggling to get corner speed. We run on tight tracks with lots of 180s. Surface is hard pack with a thin layer of dust. It starts to tun in ok, but doesn't rotate well and if you even touch the throttle it just goes straight. Pushes horribly in fast on power sweepers as well. Nothing is bent or binding. Any ideas? I'll try to attach my current setup sheet.

Can't see your rear camber link position, or the front actually. But try going up on the tower with the rear link. You can also try running less anti squat by going down on the C block or up on the D block. Down on the C is probably better in your situation as it will lower your roll center slightly.
Also your diffs seem pretty light for truggy.

Front link is A-2 rear is C-6. Interesting call on the anti squat. I have never seen anyone run a lower position on the C than the D, but I'll try anything at this point.

Matt is dead on. go to middle hole on tower, and if that doesn't help, go to top hole.

I've attached my et setup sheet, we are actually a good bit off, but this setup works well for me, and is my base everyplace I go. (I travel a bit for racing) I also ran the 15° casters with the trailing spindles. This is a key change IMHO, and it acts as a lightswitch for steering. It's very easy to drive, and I can turn with steering or throttle, depending on tires and track.

Also note the key differences in our rear setups. They match matt's suggestions from your setup.

Thanks. I'll give that a shot.

Hi everyone,

I'd like to start my post by thanking everybody who already posted something helpful here before. It's incredible how much experience and knowledge you guys have of the ET48. I loved to read myself through this thread in the last couple of days (to the disadvantage of my wife who haven’t received much attention . In the past I just had a HPI 1:8 Ken Block GRC 2013 WR8 Nitro basher and like 20 years ago an electric Tamiya 1:10 AMG Mercedes Benz C-Class DTM D2 - to sum it up, I’m not pro like you guys . But I'd like to get back into the hobby a bit more serious now after I've discovered all the fine tuning options modern electric rc cars come with. I am a complete perfectionist and love how detail-oriented some of you guys are in terms of setting up your rc cars.

Next week I've planned to start building the ET48.3 kit which just arrived today. I plan to run 2x 2S LiPos connected in series (2x 2S LIPO HV Team Orion Carbon Pro V-Max 7600mAh 7.6V 110C Deans as well as 2x 2S LIPO Team Orion Carbon Pro 8000 mAh 7.4V 90C Deans) with it as I already have got them (originally ordered the HPI Vorza Flux which I’ve sent back today after discovering this thread/forum here . My ET48.3 should be race ready for our outdoor dirt track nearby. Currently I don’t plan to participate in any serious competitions (who knows what the future will bring) but love hot-lapping in order to get the best possible lap time for myself. Due to my perfectionism I’d like to get the top notch hardware but don’t like to exaggerate it i.e. I won’t blow away $800 for just a radio even though I don’t really have a budget.

Anyway, after all the blabla lets get to my actual questions: Could you please have a look at my list of planned purchases for the ET48.3 and let me know:

1) what could be optimised (i.e. newer top notch hardware which has been already tested and is proven to be better than the listed items)

2) if it all works well together, maybe known issues with the combination etc

3) any advise or valuable extra’s I should put into the car when I will build it?

Body: Leadfinger Racing Assassin Body
ESC: Tekin RX8 GEN3 + Tekin Hotwire 3.0
Motor: Tekin T8 GEN2 Truggy 2000kV
Radio: Sanwa MT-44
Receiver: Sanwa RX-482
Servo: Futuba S9373SV
Pinion: 16t

I haven’t made myself familiar with the various diff oils, shocks and tires/wheels yet. If anybody can give me a recommendation that would go together I would highly appreciate it. If not, no problem as I will start to make myself familiar with this topic in the next couple of days as well. Thanks a lot in advance in case anyone makes the effort to reply .

I saw a ET48.3 in the for sale thread with the 44T buggy center diff installed. Curious, is this something people are doing instead of the 46T Truggy setup?