Thanks so much for posting all of the details! So, around $75 for the upgrade. As of now, I think I'm going to commit the TC4 to VTA and use the 7.1 for USGT. Still not sure if I want to run two cars though.

If the slotted cup is hitting the spinning shaft, couldn't that be the true source of the chatter? Essentially, that cup is chopping away at the shaft as it spins! Looking at the front spool, I'm wondering if anyone has tried to reduce the length of the drive cup or relieve the inside diameter a bit (dremel) to eliminate the cup from rubbing the shaft? The cup seems to be way longer that it needs to be. I'm thinking maybe remove 1mm off the inside and a mm or so in length. Might be an interesting pre-DCV upgrade experiment.

Decided to race in the novice class this Sunday since my last practice went so well. The YR shocks came with 25wt oil but that seems too light so I put some 40w in them last night. Other than that, I'm just going to take 1mm of droop out of the front and see how it feels. After that 6/7 eyelet upgrade yesterday and all of the slop it took out of the suspension, I'm starting to feel a bit better about the TC4.

Oh yeah, you'll have to slightly bore/taper the inside of the caster blocks. I totally forgot about that haha. It doesn't take much work/effort.

I didn't think the outdrives could cut into the shaft like in your photo under normal conditions. I'd suggest that happened during a crash where something flexed beyond the normal range.

The main source of chatter is in the CV joint. Part of the problem is that it's not a true constant velocity joint, you need a DCJ for that. Secondly, the joint itself binds at full articulation. If you turn it in your hands you'll see that the angle it can bend at varies depending on what direction you're bending it.

Thanks a lot! I got a lot of info in the last 2 pages to get me going. I’m going to get the dcv conversion too

Both of them exactly the same. You can see that the driveshaft is also hitting the ARB on both sides. Perhaps the result of running with a too soft suspension, etc.

For the ARB, loosen the set screw and slide the end out a little bit, that'll push it away from the axle and won't rub. For the other problem... I have no idea. I would put the car on a stand and accelerate while turning to see if it's binding and smacking around or something. I have never had that issue.

FWIW, in race ready trim, with a 5600mah hard case battery, the TC4 weighs 1501g. VTA minimum is 1450g.

I'm having trouble getting the anti-roll bars set up properly. For example, if I life up the left a-arm, the right side will lift up as well. However, if I lift up the right a-arm, the left a-arm barely moves.

I've tried checking all connections and everything seems to have the correct tension and all lengths are the same.

Any ideas on what the issue could be?

Oh, yeah. You have to do this or better yet, this. Make sure that nothing is too tight, the ball ends where they attach on the control arms and where the screw mounts pinch the sway bar on the diff housing should be loose so the bar can move freely. Let us know how it goes!

The NTC3 bumper setup on the TC4 without the RPM bottom bumper worked pretty well but probably not well enough. On a few occasions the bumper did get tucked under the front wheel(s) requiring me to backup to get it popped out. Some of the bumper foam is chewed away as well. Looks like I'll be ordering the RPM bumper and the NTC3 front bumper with pads.

If you want to run diffs front and rear on the TC4 Club, you either buy or build another rear diff, install in the front, and run it? Everything's the same from the looks of it.

If I bought a complete rear diff, I could just swap the front input shaft assembly over to replace the rear input shaft assembly and that ought to do it I think. Thanks!

A tip from another TC4 racer: run the steel diffs from the TC3 and it has several benefits: you won't break the outdrives and the diff setting will hold better. The stock TC4 club racer plastic diffs deform when the adjustment bolt is tightened. I was having trouble keeping the diffs from losing their settings. Once I switched to the TC3 steel diffs, problem went away.

https://www.rcplanet.com/rc-parts/r-...embly-asc3918/

It's a drop in.

Mark C.

Excellent. Thanks!

The TC4 lightened steel ones are better than the TC3 steel ones.

Thanks guys. I'll be honest with you, as a newb I won't be stressing my diff cups to the point of breaking any time soon. My biggest enemy is the wall and my lack of experience. I do want to try 2 diffs in the TC4 as an experiment when we start running asphalt.

I bought a complete rear diff out of a never used TC4 Club for $18. I'm just going to swap it for the front diff. I'll experiment with it over the summer/fall. As I get better or put in enough time/wear on the components I can then upgrade to the lighter better parts. I'm trying to also reign in my spending since I've now got the TC7.1 to think about.

What is everybody using for diff lube? I've got a tube of the AE diff lube but I've read that there are some interesting alternatives so thought I'd ask. Thanks!