O Ring style rear cross brace and extended front graphite bumpers are back in stock on the website!!

The Cross braces wont ship until Wed-Thursday. I am waiting on the O rings to show up but can be ordered now.

EA

From Fenix Racing, a "slim" conversion for the Xray X12-2018

how about titanium ??? keep all the weight lowest point you can

does not show on their website

The intention was a sneak preview...

Parts are on the website now and our FB page show a complete review
https://www.facebook.com/pg/FenixRac...39678756124172

Thanks for the attention

Hey Guys- I just built my new X12 2018 and had a question on the center shock that didn't seam right during the build. The kit comes with a single hole piston and 700cst oil. When building the shock and filling the body up with fluid, when I went work out the air bubbles from under the piston it like sucks air from the bottom or something because its so stiff from being a single hole with 700cst. Is this correct or what am I doing wrong.

I have actually found this to be an issue with most of my new xray shocks on my T4 and the X12. I am putting a .3mm shim between the bottom of the shock body and the o-ring. To be honest, I figured for me, it was because I polished my shock shafts and they aren't creating enough of a seal. Anyway, I tried different shims until I found one that didn't bind the travel, but didn't allow air in either. I have also found that if you bleed them too much, they will pull air in as well.

Side note:
That Fenix chassis looks great.

I Had the same problem. My issue was I put green slime on the o ring. Once I took the green slime off and rebuilt the shock it was fine.

Good point- I did coat the o-ring with a bunch of shock oil, more than normal now that I think of it.

Hey Gary,

I actually had to do both:

1. Slime up the o-ring
2. Place a shim between the plastic guide and the o-ring. I've had varied amount needed as it depends on the overall ID/OD of the shim itself. 0.3-0.5mm works best usually.

Also, I'd start with some oil that is a little bit lighter. 500 cst should be a more appropriate starting point for our tracks .

-Korey

Cool, Thanks Korey!

I'm going to run stock to start with as I'm new to 1/12 scale. Can you help with a rough starting rollout for NORA? I'm going to run a R1 V7 to start with. Now in oval I would free rev that motor at about 5.7 amp draw at 4.2v, would I do the same for this?

I think you might find that you will fade a lot of you do what you normally run in oval (I could be wrong though). Since the runs are 8 min long, there is some experimenting that will need to be done to maintain power throughout the run. I think last time I ran 17.5 it was on the TSR motor. I was at about a 87mm rollout and 44 deg of timing (just to give you a round about idea). It wasn't perfect by any means, but is was in the ballpark.

It's not uncommon to see a .8 sec/lap fade towards the run with fading chassis setup/motor with our tracks. The battle is to minimize that, and the people that have found "the sweet spot" usually end up on the podium .

-Korey

Cool, Thanks bud!

I like the look of that Fenix chassis. Definitely thinking about pulling the trigger on this one.

I wanted to make sure my servo was centered as close as possible, so come up with this method. You can visually align the end of the turnbuckle with the balancing hole, or measure 38.5mm for the edge of a 3mm screw to the edge of the chassis to get center.