Running the hubs reversed gives more side bite. Im not sure if it is because of the angle change or because there is a slightly longer upper link. Its used as a minor tuning aid.

Picked up a B5 Rear motor last Monday after fighting 2 B6Ds (1 lay down for indoors clay, 1 for outdoors) for the last 8 months. First run and race with the B5 was Saturday on indoor high traction clay running 17.5. B5 was faster in practice so I raced the B5 instead of the B6D w/ld. Coming back from a 12 year retirement I had not been able to put the B6D in an A main. First day with a B5RM qualified 8th in the A main, finished 9th. I have a lot of B6 parts on my B5, so I call it the B5.1R. My plan was to run the B5 on the out door 1/8th tracks I race at in the summer, but when I was faster on the clay, the B6D is parked.

Nice to see RM still ripping!

What sort of B6 parts are your running?

Do you know what's needed to run B6 steering hubs, knuckles etc on a B5?

I put B6D front and rear A arms on the B5, to run the front A arms I had to put a shock limiter between the back of the bulkhead and the A arm. I am also running the B6D rear hubs, front caster blocks, steering blocks, the +1 steering block arms, ball cups, and front axles. You have to use the B6 front axles as the bearings are spread further apart in the steering block than the 5 series. Also on the rear hubs you have to get the B6 hub link nuts, and also run the right hub on the left and left hub on the right. I also updated the shocks to the V2s with X rings. As far as set up on the steering part, 2mm spacer behind the ackerman ball stud, 1mm under the ball stud on the steering block arms, and raised the front axle 2mm. Had all the steering I wanted and more. With the axle raised 1mm it had a little on power push. If you have any other questions ask away. I am loving the B5. When I threw it on the track my 3rd lap ever with the B5 was a whole second faster than the B6D w/ld I had been racing. The B5 jumped better, braked better and sure as fire the rear end did not slide out after the apex of the turn.

Here a picture.

I have a B5 and I am tempted to race it again on outdoor low traction surfaces...

That is what I bought my B5 for. But when it was faster for me on the high bite clay, I changed my mind to run it indoors also. New carpet track onroad with jumps is opening near me. My local sponsor wants me to run at that track, so my B6D is getting set up to carpet munch for winter.

I ran my B5 raced my B5 at a small carpet track for a couple of months with high grip, but it did not have the steering of the mid motor cars. I purchased a Yokomo YZ-2 for this application and it was noticeably better...

Hello All,
I received my new, to me, B5M last week and I have gone through it pretty thoroughly. With the exception of a couple bad bearings and couple mistakes on assembly she is back together and ready to run except for one last shock cap coming from the seller to replace a very leaky bleed screw on one of the caps. The buggy is super clean and I almost feel bad about using it as a basher but I am sure I will get over that.

I do have one question, one thing I found is that the diff was installed backwards so the adjusting screw is on the left side. I imagine the screw will try to loosen itself being on the wrong side? Does this happen or should it be OK?

Thanks and looking forward to running it, I am fully impressed with how much more the suspension soaks up being dropped compared to my old gold pan RC10.

Cheers
Jim

It doesn't matter what side the adjustment screw is on for bashing. It experiences mild torque based on which way the diff is unloading, not which way the whole thing is spinning. A gritty thrust bearing will help it come loose more than anything.

Copy that....Thanks. The diff is currently silky smooth, when it comes time to rebuild it I will flip it at that point.

Thanks again.

Cheers,
Jim

Hello All,
I gave my B5M its inaugural run last night and all I can say is WOW....

My experience with 1:10 scale buggies has been limited to my 1985 Gold Pan RC10 which I have kept in running order for most of the last 30+ years. As time went on parts became harder and more expensive to source so I figured it was time for an upgrade. I made a deal on a very clean B5M with a bunch of spares for what I thought was a very decent price. As I mentioned I went through it thoroughly, rebuilt the shocks, tended to some build mistakes and installed the HW none sensored 13.5T motor and ESC I was using in the RC10.

With the RC10 I would run this course in front of my house, we live on a lightly used road, and it has a roller that gets you about 10" in the air, a big bump in the middle of a high speed turn (with the RC10 you could not take this at full speed or else she would end up on her lid), some low speed turns and a big sweeper......I have done 1000's of "laps" with the RC10 on this "course". I put the B5M down and run it around getting a feel for it and then started pushing harder. As I got more comfortable with it I could tell how well balanced the B5M is, the throttle is super effective to change the radius of the turns and the suspension just soaked up the bumps so much better than the RC10. That high speed turn with the bump I mentioned.....after a dozen or so laps I was hitting it at full speed and while I did end up bicycling the B5M quite often it never ended up upside down.....With the RC10 I found that the brushless motor and LiPo's felt like it was pushing the chassis to well into it's comfort zone whereas with the B5M I feel like I could add a bunch more power and it would just eat it up....Go figure that 30+ years of development have yielded such improvements.....

I am totally psyched with the new purchase and looking forward to bashing the B5M for years to come and the looks I get from the neighbors when they see this middle aged guy playing with toy cars.

Cheers,
Jim

Cool to hear Jim.

I also picked up a second hand B4M that I'm planning on racing. I've been out of racing since 2000 when I was running Losi, HPI and Yokomo cars.

I tore the car down yesterday and I'll put it back together as soon as I get parts to fix a couple of things. I like how the car is designed and I'm looking forward to getting it out on a track.

I'm slowly trying to dig through this hole thread.

Double post

Triple post???