16ga is the standard even for mod. You can use 14ga but make sure it doesn't interfere with the body and pod rotation.

We are using 14 gauge TQ 1000 for 13.5 and mod.

16g is perfect for 13.5 1s
Tq1000 for mod

Getting ready to put together my new kit and have a couple questions.

Is everybody still gluing the edges of the carbon pieces? If so, what are you using to spread it?

Got some TiN coated parts, I'm assuming they won't need polished like regular ones?

My finger or a Q tip.

My son used the X and G compound at AOC Round 3- Australia this year on a ETS carpet with a Roche P12-2017 4.5t .

Its hard to explain the difference as the pit crew, but he was the only driver with sub 10 sec laps using the X compound then went faster again with the G compound in A3. The car carried more corner speed than before and was easier to drive.

I quit gluing carbon a while back. Most people I have asked say the same thing.
As for tin coated parts you should not have to polish them.

Does anyone know the reason why with newer F1 kits, the steering knuckle/front axle has a grub screw to lock it to the king pin, where as with 1/12th scale you don't?

https://1drv.ms/i/s!AhqoP1XKPR7uzHo8i5GGtMnqi1_V

The ae f1 doesn’t use shims between the knuckle, upper and lower arm. Personally I don’t like this because the knuckle can slip. I would use shims on the f1 and not rely on the set screw

Most inline pan car axles have a set screw like the f1. On the 1/12 most cars I see run trailing axles, so no place to put it? On the Crc front end both inline and trailing have a set screw to hold the king pin, but theirs is threaded.

Good to hear. I will have to give some a shot, did you run on black carpet or the older grey rug?

It's good to see that your boys have some talent, all these raised-on-video-games kids get faster every year.

Speed Merchant Rev 8 has trailing axles that have a set screw to hold the kingpin in place.

Does anyone know if the CRC 1/12 tire truer adapter will work on the Hudy tire turer?

Yes, it should fit.

Does anyone have experience with the Sanwa SRG-HS servo? It says it's specialized for 1s 3.7v

Does this mean it won't work (or burnout) with 7.4v if I'm running a 2s lipo?

Any help is appreciated.