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Old 02-24-2009 | 09:39 AM
  #30886  
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I did some searching and didn't find the answer in regards to pod angle and the affects it has on steering and rear grip. I did find that angling the t-plate down towards the front gives more steering overall. However I'm wondering what the affects of pod angle has on steering on a linked car. It is the same as a t-plate car?

Last edited by jkirkwood; 02-24-2009 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 02-24-2009 | 09:39 AM
  #30887  
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Originally Posted by Dasmopar
Well it's not really a theoretical class since Jody Flipse has run the single cell and a 13.5 with us and showed us it's not much faster or slower than a good stock set up. The track owner is allowing us to run the lipo set up so I'm going to try it.
You dont even run stock class. So now what are you going to do?

I hear the single cell and a 8.5 is the ticket.
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Old 02-24-2009 | 09:42 AM
  #30888  
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Originally Posted by Stewped
You dont even run stock class. So now what are you going to do?

I hear the single cell and a 8.5 is the ticket.

Hey you don't worry about what I'm doing. You worry about what your gonna have to do to keep up!!
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Old 02-24-2009 | 09:46 AM
  #30889  
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Single cell 4.5 is the ticket for mod. Maybe even a 3.5 if you drive it a little.
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Old 02-24-2009 | 10:17 AM
  #30890  
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Originally Posted by Dasmopar
Sorry to jump off the droop topic but whats the consensus on lipos? I'm thinking about ordering smc single cell lipo but what do I need to run the radio gear? Voltage booster or a rec. pack?

Roar going to get on the lipo bang wagon for next season?
Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer
I doubt it. Folks are still in the "dabble" stage. Until you have a few heats of that kind of thing going on at a LOT of clubs they're not going to bother with it.
There is a big push here in the east to get ROAR to recognize single cell lipo in 1/12. How do I know? Who do you think is getting pushed?
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Old 02-24-2009 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Dasmopar
Hey you don't worry about what I'm doing. You worry about what your gonna have to do to keep up!!

2 cell 10.5 should do it for me. Just need to figure out the infield.:
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Old 02-24-2009 | 10:37 AM
  #30892  
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Originally Posted by jiml
There is a big push here in the east to get ROAR to recognize single cell lipo in 1/12. How do I know? Who do you think is getting pushed?
Until there is more than a single manufacture of Single Cell, I don't see how ROAR can condone a class with a single supplier of a key component.
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Old 02-24-2009 | 10:47 AM
  #30893  
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Originally Posted by miller tyme
Until there is more than a single manufacture of Single Cell, I don't see how ROAR can condone a class with a single supplier of a key component.
I somewhat agree but if ROAR makes it a class I'm sure many others would build them.
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Old 02-24-2009 | 11:02 AM
  #30894  
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Here's a clip pasted from my MS3 instructions (which is a t-bar car):

Shock Angle/Pod Droop: Raising or lowering the nose of the center shock will affect
the on power steering. Raising the nose will increase on power steering. This is done
by adding up to 3mm of shims to the stock Asc Shock/Ant Mount. Lowering the nose of
the shock will reduce steering on power. This change will alter the rear pod droop which
also affects on power steering. 0 is more on power steering while -2 is less. Try various
combinations during testing. These can be valuable subtle adjustments once qualifying
starts. Set the car up with no shims under the nose ball stud and with -1mm pod droop.


I feel that raising the nose of the shock and pod droop have more of an effect with "on-power" steering then "off".
Brian
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Old 02-24-2009 | 01:34 PM
  #30895  
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Originally Posted by miller tyme
Until there is more than a single manufacture of Single Cell, I don't see how ROAR can condone a class with a single supplier of a key component.
Er... when BL was proposed and accepted, there was a Novak product and nothing else. Once Rules came out, others jumped on the bandwagon pretty fast. Here in the UK, we have done just that - 1S LiPo is available to race, and there is only the SMC product currently available. Create the market, and others will come - so we have, and we await the stampede!

All this discussion about what does what on or off power, etc, etc,... Do not confuse what happens in any other class with what happens in a pan car. 'Normal' Rules are suspended with Pan Cars because you are dealing with the only racing chassis in the World that has a joint in the middle!

There is no other racing class of any kind that has this feature, and it is one reason that those coming to Pan Cars get lost - Rules applying to TC, Off Road, Oval and Drag cars that we have already learnt do not ALL apply!

Whatever you might think is supposed to happen, just go to Richard Chang's guide. The reason it is so popular is because what he describes is what is ACTUALLY happening!
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Old 02-24-2009 | 01:57 PM
  #30896  
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Originally Posted by SlowerOne
Whatever you might think is supposed to happen, just go to Richard Chang's guide.
Exactly.

Thanks PF!

1/12TH CHASSIS SETUP TIPS by Richard Chang

Last updated: 10/17/2006

Download the PDF version of this here >
http://richardchang.com/hobby/rctips_112_summary.pdf

FRONT WIDTH
NARROW - more agressive steering

WIDER - less agressive

FRONT SPRINGS
No preload for .020 springs. E-clip preload for .018 springs.

SOFTER - more steering but may dig or square up too hard. Softer springs have higher chance of collapsing.

STIFFER - less steering. Do not allow the front to dive as easily. Smoothes car out on corner entry

CAMBER
MORE NEGATIVE - decrease low speed and increase high speed steering. Outside tire will tend to flatten out at higher cornering speeds and have better contact patch. 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 deg.

CASTER
LESS - easier the car will turn. But, lose straight line stability and lose exit speed (car will not cut into a turn as well).

REACTIVE - reduces caster at turn in and increases it at exit. However, can cause more tire scrub in a turn and slow you down if not set up properly.

TOE
OUT - decrease straight line stability and can make car wander but it enhances turn-in, especially on initial "cut"

IN - increase straight line stability but make it more difficult to turn

SIDE SPRINGS
If car feels edgy, a 1/4-turn of preload can settle car down.
If car does not center up quick enough thru twisties, use stiffer spring.

SOFTER - more side bite for rear end but will be lazier transitioning back to center

STIFFER - less side bite. Faster transition, but can feel edgy.

SIDE TUBES / DAMPER DISK LUBE
Typically 10,000 ofna lube or Losi med hydra fluid

THICKER - increases front traction - adds steering. Slows transition and softens steering in fast sweepers. If car is double steering on power use thicker oil to slow reaction time but if go to far you can see inside rear tire lift in tight corners.

THINNER - decreases front traction - decreases steering.

CENTER SHOCK
Spring/Oil combo have greater effect on net rear traction - the softer the spring/oil combo the more rear grip.


POSITION
FLATTER - more on-power steering (to a point)
HIGHER - less on-power steering
SPRING
LIGHTER - more rear traction and better control on bumpy tracks. much off power steering, little on power steering (less spinouts coming out of the corner
STIFFER - less rear traction. much on-power mid-out steering, little off power steering
OIL
Controls the front to rear grip bias.
LIGHER - balance to rear (more rear traction)
HEAVIER - balance to front (more front traction/steering).
Best use a very weak oil with a softer front tire compound, for example a magenta instead of a purple for more overall traction instead of heavy oil and a hard front tire.

REAR POD DROOP
MORE - makes car turn in harder. More hi-speed steering. Handles bumpy tracks better.

LESS or NONE - car smoother into corners

SIDE LINKS (ROLL-CENTER)
RAISE - raises roll center. Will increase steering.

LOWER - lowers roll center. Locks rear end more.

BATTERY POSITION
FORWARD - easier to drive, less steering. Less wt xfer into corners.

BACK - more steering due to increase in wt xfer. Car can feel darty off-power. This coupled with longer shock (rear pod droop) makes car rotate harder into corners by unloading rear tires.

FRONT STEERING KNUCKLES
OFFSET - standard on any pancar (but oval)

INLINE - huge increase in steering response. Car becomes really twitchy. Sometimes used on 10th scale roadcourse pan car.

T-BAR SHIM
UNDER FRONT BALL - adds anti-squat - more initial steering on entry and plants rear mid corner and exit (push)

FRONT TIRES
LESS ROUNDED EDGE - makes car edgy and car want to tip over at high speed cornering situations. Can be advantageous on loose conditions where car has no high-speed bite, tho.

REAR WIDTH
WIDER - More stable, but car will push more

NARROWER - More steering

Typical tuning: front tires, center spring, and front tire-dope

In general: anything that stiffens rear end adds steering
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Old 02-25-2009 | 02:08 PM
  #30897  
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Originally Posted by Dasmopar
Sorry to jump off the droop topic but whats the consensus on lipos? I'm thinking about ordering smc single cell lipo but what do I need to run the radio gear? Voltage booster or a rec. pack?

Roar going to get on the lipo bang wagon for next season?
15 out of 23 racers at our track have been running the SMC 1S lipo with either 13.5 or 17.5 motors. All the rest say they will switch after the Nats.
The Novak 4cell and Havok both work without boosters. The Speedpassion LPF works without boosters. The Tekin RS currently needs a booster, but the next software should make it work without the booster. The Tekin is by far the favorite at our track. The JR servos seem to run slow without a booster so I'll run one either way. The Futaba 9650 users don't seem to notice as much, but still a bit slower.
If you are allowed to run the Lipo, do it.
If it were legal to charge a lipo in the car, A person running 13.5 could plug in and charge immediatly after thier heat, before going to turn marshall as there is no heat in the battery at all.

The best estimate is that the 13.5 is around .2 seconds a lap faster than 17.5 4 cell and the 17.5 lipo is .6 slower. (no weight added)
Gearing is a bit higher than were used to.
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Old 02-25-2009 | 02:27 PM
  #30898  
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Originally Posted by Eddie_E
Gearing is a bit higher than were used to.
How much higher? I'm running a 76/53 with my nimh/17.5 now.
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Old 02-25-2009 | 02:42 PM
  #30899  
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Originally Posted by chris moore
How much higher? I'm running a 76/53 with my nimh/17.5 now.
17.5 drivers are running 100~110mm rollout and 13.5 around 88~96mm. So the highest 13.5 would be close to your current setup. You might be around 62T if you were to swap right now.
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Old 02-25-2009 | 02:58 PM
  #30900  
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Default PLANE CRASH AMSTERDAM SCHIPHOL

PLANE CRASH AMSTERDAM SCHIPHOL
European Championship 1/12th scale stock spec

A Boeing 747-800 of Turkish Airlines crashed near the Amsterdam Airport Schiphol wednesday morning 10:31 (AM) local time, only a few miles away from the track where the 2009 EFRA 1/12th scale stock spec European Championship will be held.

Nine mortally wounded are to be regretted. 86 wounded people have been brought to 11 hospitals in Hoofddorp, Amsterdam, Haarlem and other cities. Six of them are in critical condition.

The Holland '09 organisation wants to offer their condoleances to all casualties and their families and friends.

Therefore a moment of silence will be held during the finals on sunday.

More info on www.holland09.com
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