I'll try again, what spares should I keep on hand for this car?

arms, towers, gear boxes and spur

Thank you

Just finished the build for my first B64... it was a pleasure to build it... just front end uper and steering links when I build per manual...their length where completely wrong

Installed electronics -plenty of space for all, after schumacher K2, also this is a nice option.

But when made the first meters... that noise confused me... noise from drive train... is it a norm for B64?
What the first steps to reduce it?

After K2 this things seems like a nitro for me

If I stick with the class then yes, I'll probably upgrade the motor,, the 17.5 was what the guy threw in the deal to get me started

Thank for the info I was a little worried about that too, I was going to pick up a 28 to start, I'm going to pull it apart and confirm the 81 or 78 before I do anything,, I assumed it was a 81 because I thought that was the stock gear,, but I'm not 100% sure because I bought it assembled.

if the 17.5 isn't really workable,, well I know what to do.

tnx

If the guy tossed in the motor, it may be a wore out motor, or an old motor design. Hence the slower speeds.

I had a YZ-4 before this. This car will always be noisier than a belt but this car does have a bit of a reputation for being noisey.
I have an early edition before changes were made to the ring gear. I tried mine outside the house and thought it a bit loud but when i took it to the track I felt it was no louder than anything else.

As said many times before, pay particular attention to shimming the diffs. The manual calls for 5 and 3 shims on the diff. Many people reccomend 8 and 0, but I found the manual to be spot on.

Moral of the story, do it for yourself, ignore recommendations of how many shims, but pay attention to recomendations on how its done.

Best of luck.

Red RC ? RC Car News » T-Works B64-series aluminium centre driveshafts

Wonder how the weight savings would stand up to the abuse of a 5.5 - 7.5 motor on carpet?

Is anyone using the longer rear shocks and shock tower on the B64D?
Are the orange O rings necessary in the center outdrives?

Poor choice of words on my part,, it wasn't a freebie,, I bought the motor,,

Any idea how this may work with the MIP and plastic dif gears?? Running on clay.

I run the longer shocks and tower with vrp valve pistons, chrome shafts and machined internals. It has really helped keep the back end stable on a very bumpy loose track. If your track is bumpy I would say it's worth it. For smooth Clay I wouldn't bother.

I run with the orings but wouldn't say it's necessary. I have never run without them to see how close it is to having the drive shaft pop out from the center outdrives.

The O-rings help prevent the pins on the dogbones from hitting the G-clip and ejecting them. If you switched to snap rings, it doesn't matter.

I run with the long rear tower + shock body on indoor bumpy clay and it helped settle the rear of the car significantly. All of the "fast" local AE drivers run long rear towers at our track.