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Old 08-01-2017, 03:20 PM   -   Wikipost
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Welcome to the B64 Wiki!

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Welcome to the B64 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Petit RC Page

B64D Manual

Aftermarket Upgrades

Aftermarket parts

Helpful Tips and Videos

How to properly Shim the B64 Diffs

B64 Club Racer video

Helpful Tips and Videos

How to properly Shim the B64 Diffs

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Old 03-31-2017, 07:31 AM
  #1876  
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Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy View Post
YTF is this so hard??
Relax. People like to make informed decisions when lacking the knowledge to work it out themselves. So they ask. It's natural. You're tiling at windmills.
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Old 03-31-2017, 08:50 AM
  #1877  
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Originally Posted by 3n90t View Post
Oh really?
I thought it was the other way around. I was thinking a shorter length was more rigid than a longer one.
Also I thought a long brace reduces front to back flex but allows more left to right flex.

Please confirm. Racing for this first time this weekend. Haven't driven it even in practice since I built it a month ago due to rain here
The longer brace reaches further into the chassis and locks it in. The shorter brace doesn't reach as far into the center of the chassis and leaves a section of chassis unsupported. the chassis becomes more "bendy" from center to back thus gives more traction. Might make the car feel more like a noodle.
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Old 03-31-2017, 10:47 AM
  #1878  
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Ok thanks sorry I asked, the closest track is 2 1/2 hours away so I don't get to go much so I was just wondering before going!
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Old 03-31-2017, 11:17 AM
  #1879  
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Don't be sorry.
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Old 03-31-2017, 11:37 AM
  #1880  
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I am also glad to find out what the different braces do. Now I don't need to waste track time to try something I won't need, thanks for asking the question and thanks to those that answered.
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Old 03-31-2017, 09:38 PM
  #1881  
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Originally Posted by littlehonda14 View Post
Ok thanks sorry I asked, the closest track is 2 1/2 hours away so I don't get to go much so I was just wondering before going!
Originally Posted by KCodd View Post
Don't be sorry.
Yeah, dont be sorry. But it is literally a 2 minute change. It is worth the time it takes to try it out for yourself.

Set up sheets found online are great if you can find one that works. It could get you in the ballpark. But unless you are Brent Theilke racing at OCRC his set up is not going to work for you racing at some little track in your home town. We have had some guys from California visit our track, they have raced at some of the tracks you find in those set-up sheets, and I asked them how our clay compares to OCRC and they said the traction level is close, but it has a much different feel. They had to make some changes to their set up from what they would usually run on a med-high grip clay.

So while an OCRC setup will get you close to run your car at my home track it will not be it's best. Changing that rear brace might be the difference between an okay car for you or a car you absolutely love. And you will never know that if you dont try different things.

I want to see people exchanging ideas. I want to see people sharing single setup changes and what those changes do to the car.

You say the track is 2.5 hours away? Then when you go there you need to make every minute count. Try moving a ball stud and do 5-10 laps. Remove a sway bar or try different springs and do 5-10 laps. You would be amazed at what you can learn in just a few laps.

Dont try to adjust your driving to a car that is set up for someone else. Take the time to learn how to set up a car for your driving. You will be much happier in the long run.
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Old 04-01-2017, 01:01 AM
  #1882  
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Originally Posted by Vujkovicv View Post
I have 20ish packs through my car without any breakage. Sounds like the fastest guys at your local track wouldn't even make the a main at my local track
To clarify, we run on an astroturf track with PVC coming off some of the turns and if you happen to hit it just right the arms are breaking. No to be completely honest the weather here in NJ has been pretty cold and probably not above 40 for most of the races except one!

As for making the Amain at your track, I don't know maybe we wouldn't but I would love to see! Maybe one day that can happen since you basically said were slow over here.
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Last edited by Turtle Speed; 04-01-2017 at 02:10 AM.
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Old 04-01-2017, 08:02 AM
  #1883  
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So you can't blame the car for breaking and tell people that it's brittle. We all know cars break in the cold and when crashed into hard objects. No exceptions.
Maybe one day. Maybe one day I'll be one of the fast guys at my local track too. Sadly im probably too old.
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Old 04-01-2017, 08:28 AM
  #1884  
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I have my B64d assembled, Fantom Type T 13.5 motor soldered in, Reedy Blackbox 510R and Futaba R304SB synced to my Futaba 4PLS. Servo is functioning and operating by the 4PLS but I can't get any response from the motor. In ESC/Radio calibration I have completed step 4, where the neutral point has been saved next step, 5) "Move the transmitter to the full throttle position, and press the power button. The red LED will blink until both the red and green LED's illuminate an remain solid. Full throttle position has been saved."
All that happens is red LED blinks, any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Dan
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Old 04-01-2017, 08:45 AM
  #1885  
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Did you make sure to set the trim on the radio to 0 before calibrating?
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Old 04-01-2017, 08:55 AM
  #1886  
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Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
Did you make sure to set the trim on the radio to 0 before calibrating?
I have gone step by step and gotten this far, but no step for setting trim, yet. I'll check again.
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Old 04-01-2017, 09:07 AM
  #1887  
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Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
Did you make sure to set the trim on the radio to 0 before calibrating?
Throttle trim is already set to 0, as is servo for steering.
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Old 04-01-2017, 09:23 AM
  #1888  
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Sometimes the throttle channel needs to be switched to REV on the radio?
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Old 04-01-2017, 09:35 AM
  #1889  
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Originally Posted by slakr View Post
Sometimes the throttle channel needs to be switched to REV on the radio?
That might be the hang up...I have put throttle icon on left side and right side. I can't get it to go right, left is actually REV, but Futaba said it has to go right. So I reset and it stays left or REV. Is there a way to save the setting when I change it. Clicking on the JOG button doesn't do it.
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Old 04-01-2017, 10:22 AM
  #1890  
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Originally Posted by Duck Buggy View Post
Throttle trim is already set to 0, as is servo for steering.
I would try reconnecting the sensor cable. If it's just a tiny bit ajar it can cause similar issues.
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