Tell me about the lube? My race car is ultra light, I have to look, but it's something like 1500 grams or so iirc.

I got my car down to about 1650grams, eventhough I run heavy full size servos. I doubt I can get down under 1610grams with low profile servos.
Anyway, the ofna diff lock lube is a very sticky silicone lube that increases bite between the shoe and clutch bell. The shoes last alot longer, and the car feels as snappy as a centax clutch car with a medium soft clutch. The lube also can't escape the inside of the bell, since the centrifugal outward forces push it against the bell at WOT.
You can also keep adding a small amount of lube with a bent thin paper clip wire without any disassembly. The clutch bell also does not get worn as fast because the burnt lube created a sticky layer inside the bell that shields the metal surface a bit, and coats the clutch shoes somewhat. Once the clutch has the right snap, it seems to last for more than a few racedays without having to relube...
I also use the lube in the ntc3 rear diff to coat both sides of the sandpapered diff rings. I also slightly sandpaper and lube the outdrive surface that contact the diff rings: that effectively stops or slows down any diff slipping issues, cooling the diffs and stopping meltdowns...My rear diff has always been very solid, even in big crashes...
Personally, the ntc3 is very dependent on build quality, and the instruction manual tips only teaches racers how to build a very brittle car, probably so they can sell more parts, but if you add just a few things(superwide bumper, ofna lube, niftech titanium or CF driveshaft, Kfactory/diggity design shocktowers, etc,) , the car becomes a tank...
Lastly, the AE ntc3 gearsets were too tall for most racing tracks, causing more clutch slipping. The 19tooth pinion (19t/25t & 54t/48t)from dynotech racing is necessary to compete against the nt1/mtx6, etc, but all of the above is useless without a front spool/lcd drive combo to pull out of corners as fast as possible, and keep up with the others.....

You gotta be kidding. I think we all being punked! I would honestly be shocked if you could find 1 single part for that car, also the car was about as strong as glass! You look at it wrong n it broke or blew a diff or something. The NT1 is like a tank N the R is still capable of winning on any track

Nah...No way. The shock tower would break if you crashed it with no body, that was the worst part. The early diffs were weaker than the later gears from what I can tell. If you build them right, set the ring and pinion lash and lube the gears, they rarely break. I've only seen them break on cars with a .21. Even then, the few I saw with a .21 built diffs like the manual shows and that's gonna be hit or miss.

My first Ntc3 ready to run .12 was the envy of a bunch of local racers back in the day. When not at the track we'd bash at a large lot and my car was beat to shit on every outting. Unless a rim snapped, the car never broke. Everyone one else had regular break downs. Belts, suspension, electronics.. this includes hpi, Mugen, SERPENT and ofna. Much of the reliability is not only in the car, but how you build it.

My 2 cents from actual experience.

I had good luck with factory and kfactory gearing. The front diff can be tightened like a spool if you must and is nice on some tracks if it matches your driving style. I'm building another race car and will likely put a dedicated spool in front. You can also put one in the back, but it's not practical in most conditions imo.

My rear diff with the lube is almost like a spool when cold but will probably loosen up as it heats up, and I have to drive the car like an 8scale with 4wheel braking... The losi lcd drives do give a little more steering vs the AE cvds, but throttle control is the best way to turn while carrying great corner speed...
I wanted to run my ntc3 against the new cars this summer, but the local nitro track closed this year. I am very confident that my car will do very well with all the upgrades, and I hope a new nitro track will allow me to prove my point, eventhough most of the other team racers constantly block me from passing them: nobody wants to be passed by a ntc3 ever !!!

Break this..

No way to break that, but I still prefer reversing the kfactory CF plate to lower the CG, some dremeling of edge of the plate is required though...Shocks and tower partially hide behind the bumper for even more protection, and the body can be lowered all the way down for better performance...

The rear also got tougher with the diggity designs tc4 carbon(3mm) tower, in addition to the only double swaybar system in rc history: the ntc3 rocks...
Nt1 changes too much every year to be a classic rc car or a legend...

Looks good. I have a few more, I'll take a look at that. Probably body clearance is the real noticeable benefit

I'd consider the rear tower if it was a bolt in. Just for the looks. Can you elaborate on install? The double sway bar looks cool bit likely overkill on most surfaces.

The guy at diggity design built me the 3mm rear tower, which I paired with the tc4 factory team shock mount(#31102) to fit the ntc3. It is a direct fit, and the mount is like $4 or less. I did have to drill two extra holes to lower the rear shocks as shown in the picture, but you can use the regular holes too with no adverse effect...
The double swaybar does give me the opportunity to run a very soft set of springs all around without too much body roll in the corners: the car feels very flat in corners, and transitions very fast....
I know I have lowered my ntc3 body so much that I had to cut the two top motor fins(12grams off), so the motor can fit under the roof....

So you put the tc4 mount on the diff cover and bolt the diggity carbon part to it? Sounds simple. What did you notice about this in terms of looks and performance. Looks like there are many tunning options there.

The rear sways are available in several thickness sizes. You can further tune if you like.

Now the fins off lower the cg even more, making my ntc3 look like a real race car, not a buggy... AE refuses to release a new version like mine, but I am willing to bet that my car will easily run with the Capricorn, nt1, mtx6, and serpents of today...

Correct... Very simple install, but I have not really tested it on a prepped track. On the street, I see a better support for the rear of the body, and a bit more rear traction...
I also use the thickest gold swaybar in my ntc3 front and rear, with the blade swaybar at the stiffest settings in front, and 45 degrees in the rear... That stopped the heavy sway I use to have in the corners at the track, but I realized that I still needed alot of weight to come off the top of the chassis to really cure the problem, hence the lowered towers/shocks/body, etc...
I also cut my bodies enough to have them weigh about 85grams or less: no windows except the winshield with the refueling hole, light paint coat, thinnest nitro body available(0.7mm or less), etc...So far the SRS-N is the best I've tested, with matrix carbon tires 37F/40R on the street. I run tamiya shocks 40wt oil three hole pistons, 25% rebound....