Hi everyone....

Long time Tekno buggy owner, but I recently bought an e-truggy from another racer, specifically to try the class at Wicked Weekend, and the front body mount holes are pretty much blown out.

I can't get a body painted with my buggy scheme in time, and I didn't want to waste the money on q new body that I'd have to "rattle can" for this race.

I'd like to find someone with a body that they're not using, but is still in good condition, and not cracked (maybe changed a paint scheme, one that came with a used truggy, etc..).

If anyone has a body that they'd be willing to sell, please post a picture, and send me a PM with your contact info.

Thanks....

You might be able to use something like this to reinforce the holes a bit if they weren't already.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/racers-...-rce097/p35508

I've got some reinforcing methods that I've tried before, and I'm going to try and make this one usable for the race, but I'd like to have another body on hand, just in case.....kind of difficult finding someone with a body they want to sell though.

Just picked up a good condition used ET48. Considering the upgrade kit to make it a 48.3 but I have the .3 spindles and a nearly complete set of .3 hinge pin holders minus the D block.

So the question is, are the rear hubs necessary and does the split center diff mount/taper drive shaft only there to make maintenance easy.

I guess what I am saying is I can get a set of front hub carriers and a D block for probably ~$35 o?r I can go all in for about $150 to get completely upgraded to a .3. Is the later worth it

On the ET the hubs are the same, just the front changed to go trailing. The AL rear center shaft isn't part of either, but is a nice upgrade. The split center diff is only convenience, but I usually go with the full AL one for extra rigidity and the inability to strip them out when I crank down on the screws. Some people are, however, using the optional rear hubs along with the .4 ackerman and bellcranks now, and seem to like it. Those aren't part of a .3 though and are more of a tuning option.

Thanks for the info.

The rear hubs have a different part number, maybe the geometry didn't change but they appear to be different. What I ended up doing was ordering the new HRC rear hubs, front hub carriers, split center diff and the tapered drive shaft. I decided to leave the tall rear wing mount as that appears to be what most setup sheets show in use. Looks like my rear brace is cracked too so I got the m2C rear shock tower brace and the alum rear brace. Hope that doesn't make the rear too stiff.

Be sure if you do change the front, to replace both the spindles and spindle carriers. The trailing and inline parts don't interchange.

Yes I already have a set of the new trailing spindles hubs or whatever they are called.

Very nice!

How would one of these hold up for some backyard bashing, with occasional racing thrown in? I know the MT410 is probably preferable for the bashing side, but want something that handles racing as well.

I have both the MT410 and an ET48 set up for bashing. There's nothing better than Tekno for bashing. I prefer the longer Et48.

Im going through this ET48 I picked up and I'm wondering if the original shipped with these weird carbon internal diff shims? So far the front and rear diff have had them along with some of the blackest tar looking diff fluid I have ever seen...

Nope, always been metal.

just checking in on a few things:

- Anyone using the HW XR8 SCT Pro on 4S and how do you like it?
- Anyone using the Maclan 1900kv motor and how do you like it?

Thanks!

I use the sct pro for a long time. Power wise and smoothness it’s a really great esc. I switched to Tekin stuff for brakes only. Don’t get me wrong, the HW brakes work like a champ but they had a different feel even with all the tuning options for both brakes and coasting and I couldn’t get what I was chasing which was a similar off throttle and braking feel close to my nitro stuff. Switching back and forth on race day was rough because they just didn’t drive the same at all. The Tekin brakes felt much more natural for a guy who’s raced nitro for 20 years and only started ebuggy in the last year. I have no regrets with the switch but at the same time, if I was only running electric cars I’d have never changed from the sct as it’s a great esc.