Just ordered 4600 graphene 90c. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene...connector.html See if it helps. 52 to door bay of e. Thanks

what is your method to do the cleaning and what do you like as bearing oil to relube with?

For the stock bearings, I use an exacto to pop out both seals for the bearings on the top shaft and idler gear. Then one seal on the bearings on the diff and axles and when I install them, make sure the side with the shield faces out. I have a bunch of motor spray left from the brushed motor days, so I spray some in a small plastic tub, put the bearings inside, put the lid on, and shake them up for a minute or two. It's my poor mans sonic cleaner technique.

For oil, I have some lightning high speed oil from Boca bearings, but any light oil meant for bearings will do. It's all lower drag than the grease that comes packed in most bearings.

If you need new bearings on a budget, get the $1 metal shielded ones and clean out the grease the same way and re-oil.

Personally I'm right along with Krio...

Pop the seals, motor spray (but I use an RPM bearing blaster)

I soak mine in Marvel Mystery Oil overnight.

Then needle lube with a bicycle chain oil, old school rc stuff that smells like bananas I believe it's Tri Flow Super Lubricant


But honestly.....I just buy Avid's for a buck a piece and I've been replacing for a while now

If you can find it, Trinity Royal oil works great for bearings.

So for racing on carpet.... should I change to hard arms front and rear?

I would, and hard side rails

Ran my buggy a bunch. I noticiced that the orings on the shock shafts are still really tight with a bunch of friction. Are there after market orings for the shocks that are not as tight? Thanks.

The xrings with the machined shock spacers. In my opinion the xrings don't last as long as some others out there. Haven't found a suitable replacement though.

Ok I found them. Love the guys review. Not sure how AE gets away with the factory orings? There a sheet sandwich. Hope these help a bunch. I am seeing visions of a losi or d216 in my future. (FYI it's how stuck the orings are on non moving shaft. Tighter than a turtles pelt.) But whatever. https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...BoCC4cQAvD_BwE

You're looking for this: X-Rings

And this: Machined Spacers

I also don't like to use anything other than shock oil on the seals...no green slime, blue protek stuff....just shock oil. The factory O-rings in the new kits are the x-rings...they just don't include the machined spacers. The molded spacers can pinch the rings and bind (especially if you tighten the lower cap) because the tolerance of a molded part isn't the same as machined.

I have been running the shiny pucks with rollers. Both gear and ball diffs. I'm pretty happy. I ordered a silly amount of rollers when I thought that MIP wasn't making them anymore. I'll be using them for years.

Will ASC91494 fit in 5 series shocks? I am asking because on AE's site and A Main they aren't listed as compatible.
Blake

5 series shocks are the same as the B6 shocks. All the shock bodies for the 5 series are the v2 so yes they work. I use them in all my shocks... T5, sc5, 64, B6

I've just opened a set and discovered that they only come with four of the hat-spacers, whereas the B6 kit uses 8 of these. The ASC91494 comes with another 4 round spacers. Rather than try these, I used the stock spacers in the front shocks. I'd suggest getting two packs if you want to use the ASC91494 unless someone can confirm they work without using 8 hat spacers.