128LikesXray T4'17
07-26-2017 | 03:28 PM
#1397
Tech Elite
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,057
From: Chatham Ontario Canada
I think you need 9.6mm just to make sure the ball joint doesn't bind - thread the shaft in much further and the ball locks right up. It did on my kit anyway - none of this only 1mm of thread showing like the manual says.
08-01-2017 | 04:59 AM
#1402
Thread Starter
Suspended
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,948
08-01-2017 | 04:01 PM
#1404
Tech Elite
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,057
From: Chatham Ontario Canada
Real Good
I have to say, I'm very happy with my T4'17 Al flex kit. There were a few imperfections but when the car hit the track it was fantastic right off the bat. I'll list my complaints but these are not an indication of dissatisfaction in anyway - no car kit is perfect:
- Some of the orange spacers for the upper deck were way off in spec... too thin which if used would place considerable stress on the upper deck and pinch the layshaft bearings. I had the same issue with some spares I bought and had to throw them out.
- The omission of the inner battery stop... easily resolved thankfully.
- The ARS arms are not Graphite and CANNOT be used without reaming.
- Very little adjustment range with the ARS.
- had to shim the rear ARS steering block for up/down play
- They were not kidding about the diff o-ring expanding - I wasn't happy with my initial fluid level and rebuilt the diff before I even ran car. No way that thing was going back in. I used Tamiya anti-wear grease on the gasket and there is zero leakage so far.
- the short steering tie-rod for the servo is too long and can't be adjusted to make the angle between the rod and the servo saver 90 degrees. You have to shorten the rod or cheat with radio settings to get perfect left right travel
- Doesn't include hard front bumper, the light one should be the option.
I think many racers are afraid of the ARS but they shouldn't be. It doesn't do anything drastic and gives you very precise control of the static toe which is a nice quick tuning option. I'm running on carpet and it's wonderful.
- Some of the orange spacers for the upper deck were way off in spec... too thin which if used would place considerable stress on the upper deck and pinch the layshaft bearings. I had the same issue with some spares I bought and had to throw them out.
- The omission of the inner battery stop... easily resolved thankfully.
- The ARS arms are not Graphite and CANNOT be used without reaming.
- Very little adjustment range with the ARS.
- had to shim the rear ARS steering block for up/down play
- They were not kidding about the diff o-ring expanding - I wasn't happy with my initial fluid level and rebuilt the diff before I even ran car. No way that thing was going back in. I used Tamiya anti-wear grease on the gasket and there is zero leakage so far.
- the short steering tie-rod for the servo is too long and can't be adjusted to make the angle between the rod and the servo saver 90 degrees. You have to shorten the rod or cheat with radio settings to get perfect left right travel
- Doesn't include hard front bumper, the light one should be the option.
I think many racers are afraid of the ARS but they shouldn't be. It doesn't do anything drastic and gives you very precise control of the static toe which is a nice quick tuning option. I'm running on carpet and it's wonderful.
08-02-2017 | 01:39 AM
#1405
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,741
If you run the servo at 90 to the link the horn or the turnbuckle usually hits the overhand of the servo mount (the ears that are for floating posts)
Running 90 to chassis is what all the factory guys do it seems.
Running 90 to chassis is what all the factory guys do it seems.
08-02-2017 | 01:39 AM
#1406
Tech Elite
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,951
From: Windsor, UK
I have to say, I'm very happy with my T4'17 Al flex kit. There were a few imperfections but when the car hit the track it was fantastic right off the bat. I'll list my complaints but these are not an indication of dissatisfaction in anyway - no car kit is perfect:
- Some of the orange spacers for the upper deck were way off in spec... too thin which if used would place considerable stress on the upper deck and pinch the layshaft bearings. I had the same issue with some spares I bought and had to throw them out.
- The omission of the inner battery stop... easily resolved thankfully.
Agree that something should really be in the kit
- The ARS arms are not Graphite and CANNOT be used without reaming.
Better too tight than too loose
, think the material is a throwback to when the entire kit had composite arms and ARS
- Very little adjustment range with the ARS.
If you have large variations in rear toe, particularly in Modified, it will make the car unstable. If you do want more adjustment mount the link on top of the outer knuckle
- had to shim the rear ARS steering block for up/down play
Never had that
- They were not kidding about the diff o-ring expanding - I wasn't happy with my initial fluid level and rebuilt the diff before I even ran car. No way that thing was going back in. I used Tamiya anti-wear grease on the gasket and there is zero leakage so far.
Only had to replace the O-rings once in one of my diffs (I have a few prebuilt with different oils) and they can go for well over a year between top ups of oil. I do use Hudy oil
- the short steering tie-rod for the servo is too long and can't be adjusted to make the angle between the rod and the servo saver 90 degrees. You have to shorten the rod or cheat with radio settings to get perfect left right travel
True
- Doesn't include hard front bumper, the light one should be the option.
It's a competition kit, so obviously the harder (heavier) item is an option that most don't use
I think many racers are afraid of the ARS but they shouldn't be. It doesn't do anything drastic and gives you very precise control of the static toe which is a nice quick tuning option. I'm running on carpet and it's wonderful.
- Some of the orange spacers for the upper deck were way off in spec... too thin which if used would place considerable stress on the upper deck and pinch the layshaft bearings. I had the same issue with some spares I bought and had to throw them out.
- The omission of the inner battery stop... easily resolved thankfully.
Agree that something should really be in the kit
- The ARS arms are not Graphite and CANNOT be used without reaming.
Better too tight than too loose
, think the material is a throwback to when the entire kit had composite arms and ARS- Very little adjustment range with the ARS.
If you have large variations in rear toe, particularly in Modified, it will make the car unstable. If you do want more adjustment mount the link on top of the outer knuckle
- had to shim the rear ARS steering block for up/down play
Never had that
- They were not kidding about the diff o-ring expanding - I wasn't happy with my initial fluid level and rebuilt the diff before I even ran car. No way that thing was going back in. I used Tamiya anti-wear grease on the gasket and there is zero leakage so far.
Only had to replace the O-rings once in one of my diffs (I have a few prebuilt with different oils) and they can go for well over a year between top ups of oil. I do use Hudy oil
- the short steering tie-rod for the servo is too long and can't be adjusted to make the angle between the rod and the servo saver 90 degrees. You have to shorten the rod or cheat with radio settings to get perfect left right travel
True
- Doesn't include hard front bumper, the light one should be the option.
It's a competition kit, so obviously the harder (heavier) item is an option that most don't use
I think many racers are afraid of the ARS but they shouldn't be. It doesn't do anything drastic and gives you very precise control of the static toe which is a nice quick tuning option. I'm running on carpet and it's wonderful.
08-02-2017 | 08:18 AM
#1407
Tech Elite
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,057
From: Chatham Ontario Canada
Is anyone using the ARS on the zero toe change setting in order to precisely tune static toe? Like you would with front toe or camber for example - adding a quarter turn with the wrench based on how the car feels at the time. Seems like a really good idea to me to run ARS even if you don't want active rear steer. I'm just asking - not trying to sway racers one way or another... but it seems so handy.
08-02-2017 | 10:34 AM
#1409
Tech Master
iTrader: (22)
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,431
I generally run on low-medium grip asphalt and I do not run the ARS even with the advantage of adjusting the rear toe precisely. It seems to me that you can get pretty close to what is needed with the pill inserts and there seem to be other changes that happen with the ARS that I do not like.
08-03-2017 | 10:17 AM
#1410
Tech Elite
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,951
From: Windsor, UK
Is anyone using the ARS on the zero toe change setting in order to precisely tune static toe? Like you would with front toe or camber for example - adding a quarter turn with the wrench based on how the car feels at the time. Seems like a really good idea to me to run ARS even if you don't want active rear steer. I'm just asking - not trying to sway racers one way or another... but it seems so handy.
Personally, I'd rather remove that extra weight and lose the fine tuning.
