You will get zero arguments from me on this subject. Every mini I"ve driven has had a rather excessive amount of torque.

I am starting to want a momentum machine...

Has Tamiya released that new mazada body yet curious as to what its wheelbase is for the M chassis

mazda 2? 239mm LWB

I believe that's the one.

To fix the hooking when cornering problem, I've gone from stock setup to:

1. Lwb and 0 washer on the rear upper suspension link following Tony G's advise to reduce camber. Physical camber was about -3.5 to 4.



I also switched to TA03 ball diff built using Tony G's recipe: 3mm ceramic balls + Tamiya Anti-wear Grease.



This works immediately. Lap times are 10s-ish.

2. Next I switched to Mwb. I was able to add a 1mm washer to each link and still no hooking.

This is expected of shortening the rear wheelbase. Lap times are 9 to 10s-ish.

3. Then I switched back to Lwb and was able to add 2mm washers and still no hooking.



Lap times are low 9s-ish, with a hot lap of 8+s.

I'll be sticking to this setup. I feel the improved lap times despite adding back 2mm of washers also has a lot to do with getting used to the handling of the M05 and my driving style adapting to it. I find that my laps are faster when I throttle hard and aim for the next apex, brake late and hard, corner slow with a small turning radius and repeat. The TA03 ball helped in this style of driving by letting us get on the gas sooner and earlier 3/4 way into the corner.

Cheers,
Gab

Yes, I'm running one! rcmart.com is selling it at 23.90 usd if i remember it correctly.

Here is an interesting read about why the M07 Concept is...

Looking forward to putting some laps down. has been a fun build so far.. very nice design and definitely next level when it comes to M-chassis.

https://tamiyablog.com/2017/06/tamiy...egawa-circuit/

I'm only just started the build. - gearbox and front arms. Plastics are certainly much better. There are a few things that don't make sense, but we've come to expect that. One thing in particular is both the spur and counter gear use spacers. It's one of those things you'd expect to be compensated for in the basic design.

The only other quibble is the way the parts are bagged vs the instructions. Just built an Associated buggy last week and the parts were bagged exactly in the order you needed them, with nothing to be set aside for another step a few pages later.

A M-07 won the Norcal TCS.

A few notes from my build. The motor plate hole is too small for a
24 pinion. A round file fixes that issue. The left front chassis brace
won't allow a brushless motor, no room to solder the ESC wires. Left
that brace off. The stock plastic shocks use a 28 mm shock shaft. If you
are trying to use the short option shocks, they are not long enough.
You can use the long shafts from the kit, or use the front M-07 shock tower
on the rear, and for the front, I modified the M-05R rear graphite shock
tower for use on the front of the MO-7. In both cases, the shock tower's ball stud holes are about 2mm lower than the stock M-07's. Also the after market non-Tamiya 35 and 33 spur gears are a perfect fit. Although you don't have to split the chassis to work on the gears, You still have to disassemble the front of the car. The kit diff oil is not labeled but in the directions it indicates 100,000K. In any case, I used 30,000K. We will see how it runs next week.

Could you please explain what "after market non-Tamiya 35 and 33 spur gears" are?

Third party spur gears with different tooth counts - stock is 37. Commonly referred to as speed tuned gears.

The word you're looking for is "cheater" gears. I've got some nice delrin ones.

Build is going well. Bearings are filled with rendered hog fat out of the box. Sticky.

So this why the TA-05 M-four is the most awesome mini ever...

Someone pass me the ban-hammer.