295LikesTamiya mini cooper
06-14-2017 | 07:23 AM
06-14-2017 | 09:24 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,269
Interesting to hear about RCMart, I have places 4 orders over the last couple months with them for some hop up parts, wheels, and tires and here on the East Coast of the USA I have gotten every order in 9-11 days. The only ding I will give them is the fact that the discribbed a CVA shock package as having multiple tuning springs and it only came with one set. I did inquire and I got a quick reply back saying that their website was incorrect....I kind of knew that from what everyone else's description was but I tried anyhow.
With that said dealing with a shady vendor is no fun.....I have written off HobbyKing because their CS is laughable. A couple months ago I ordered a motor and a bag of shims, the motor was like $18 and the shims were like about $1.00. The order shows up and the motor has a 1/8" shaft instead of the 3MM shaft as the description said. The shipping on the order was almost $9.00. I talk to their CS on line and they are refusing to credit me the freight......I was actually sick in bed that day so had time on my side, I was not so worried about the money as I was the principle and the fact that they have screwed up so many times. After literally two hours I finally got them to agree to credit the freight but unless it is 100% necessary I will never buy from them again.
Cheers,
Jim
With that said dealing with a shady vendor is no fun.....I have written off HobbyKing because their CS is laughable. A couple months ago I ordered a motor and a bag of shims, the motor was like $18 and the shims were like about $1.00. The order shows up and the motor has a 1/8" shaft instead of the 3MM shaft as the description said. The shipping on the order was almost $9.00. I talk to their CS on line and they are refusing to credit me the freight......I was actually sick in bed that day so had time on my side, I was not so worried about the money as I was the principle and the fact that they have screwed up so many times. After literally two hours I finally got them to agree to credit the freight but unless it is 100% necessary I will never buy from them again.
Cheers,
Jim
06-14-2017 | 03:44 PM
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,549
From: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
I've had parcels reach Australia in under a week and then take another 2-3 to actually get to me. rcmart and HK Post are usually not the issue.
06-14-2017 | 06:26 PM
It's rarely rcmart that is the issue. In my experience (about 10 years plus, back when they were called Dinball) they're pretty good and its usually your local Postal system that is the hold up.
I've had parcels reach Australia in under a week and then take another 2-3 to actually get to me. rcmart and HK Post are usually not the issue.
I've had parcels reach Australia in under a week and then take another 2-3 to actually get to me. rcmart and HK Post are usually not the issue.
06-15-2017 | 01:15 AM
Thanks for the heads ups guys, I've removed the extra spacers.
The rear of my V2R hooks when I turn with higher corner speed. Stock setup, Tamiya 60D Type B slicks (control tires for a race this Sunday), running on mid grip asphalt. Any suggestions that can prevent the rear from hooking without reducing cornering speed? Thanks!
The rear of my V2R hooks when I turn with higher corner speed. Stock setup, Tamiya 60D Type B slicks (control tires for a race this Sunday), running on mid grip asphalt. Any suggestions that can prevent the rear from hooking without reducing cornering speed? Thanks!
Gab, I have to agree with giaplex here, I would try without the spacers first if you're running the stock knuckles. The setup I posted should be a good start for medium grip asphalt.
Don't forget too, try playing with the exponential/curve of your steering as well as your dual rate on you radio. Often overlooked, but a huge item. And do circles and adjust your endpoints so that your car can turn the same diameter circle left and right. Will make the car feel much more consistent.
I know most know of this practice, but just in case, I follow these steps:
1. On the transmitter, set dual rate setting to maximum
2. Set trim so so that the car goes straight.
3. Set balance/endpoint left and right so that at max throw the servo is not straining or flexing parts.
4. Put the car sideways against a track board (wall, whatever) and do a half circle, put your foot where the car ends up.
5. Turn the car 180deg against your foot and turn towards the board doing another half circle.
6. Adjust your balance/endpoint until your circles are equal and the car sideswipes your foot and board in each direction, making sure the servo is not straining or flexing parts.
From there you have your maximum steering in the car, use dual rate to dial out as needed (less is often better). You shouldn't ever have to worry about over straining your servo or parts this way. I do this on EVERY car I have.
Don't forget too, try playing with the exponential/curve of your steering as well as your dual rate on you radio. Often overlooked, but a huge item. And do circles and adjust your endpoints so that your car can turn the same diameter circle left and right. Will make the car feel much more consistent.
I know most know of this practice, but just in case, I follow these steps:
1. On the transmitter, set dual rate setting to maximum
2. Set trim so so that the car goes straight.
3. Set balance/endpoint left and right so that at max throw the servo is not straining or flexing parts.
4. Put the car sideways against a track board (wall, whatever) and do a half circle, put your foot where the car ends up.
5. Turn the car 180deg against your foot and turn towards the board doing another half circle.
6. Adjust your balance/endpoint until your circles are equal and the car sideswipes your foot and board in each direction, making sure the servo is not straining or flexing parts.
From there you have your maximum steering in the car, use dual rate to dial out as needed (less is often better). You shouldn't ever have to worry about over straining your servo or parts this way. I do this on EVERY car I have.
Correct Tim. So many people make the mistake of panicking because the observable bump steer over the full length of travel looks alarming.
But...on track the car actually only uses about a 3rd of the available travel and the bump steer effect is inconsequential really.
But...on track the car actually only uses about a 3rd of the available travel and the bump steer effect is inconsequential really.
06-15-2017 | 03:54 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 253
From: Newtownforbes, Ireland
06-15-2017 | 04:39 AM
Thanks for the heads ups guys, I've removed the extra spacers.
The rear of my V2R hooks when I turn with higher corner speed. Stock setup, Tamiya 60D Type B slicks (control tires for a race this Sunday), running on mid grip asphalt. Any suggestions that can prevent the rear from hooking without reducing cornering speed? Thanks!
The rear of my V2R hooks when I turn with higher corner speed. Stock setup, Tamiya 60D Type B slicks (control tires for a race this Sunday), running on mid grip asphalt. Any suggestions that can prevent the rear from hooking without reducing cornering speed? Thanks!
I was having all sorts of trouble with that too at first. Biggest improvement in the car was adding weight to the back of the car. I started at 42gram in the opening under the rear shock tower. Tamed the rear and made the car way more predictable at speed.
06-15-2017 | 06:00 AM
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 193
From: Regina, Canada
I'll try #50597 but I was looking for silicon
thank you for your help
06-15-2017 | 06:03 AM
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 193
From: Regina, Canada
Thought that was the norm coming from HK
Last edited by irvinew; 06-15-2017 at 06:03 AM. Reason: clarify
06-15-2017 | 07:51 AM
Tamiya 42137 or 53574 are the main silicon o-ring options for the TRF dampers. They've also got x-rings if you want to get fancy.