Tamiya mini cooper
It's rarely rcmart that is the issue. In my experience (about 10 years plus, back when they were called Dinball) they're pretty good and its usually your local Postal system that is the hold up.
I've had parcels reach Australia in under a week and then take another 2-3 to actually get to me. rcmart and HK Post are usually not the issue.
I've had parcels reach Australia in under a week and then take another 2-3 to actually get to me. rcmart and HK Post are usually not the issue.
Thanks for the heads ups guys, I've removed the extra spacers.
The rear of my V2R hooks when I turn with higher corner speed. Stock setup, Tamiya 60D Type B slicks (control tires for a race this Sunday), running on mid grip asphalt. Any suggestions that can prevent the rear from hooking without reducing cornering speed? Thanks!


The rear of my V2R hooks when I turn with higher corner speed. Stock setup, Tamiya 60D Type B slicks (control tires for a race this Sunday), running on mid grip asphalt. Any suggestions that can prevent the rear from hooking without reducing cornering speed? Thanks!


Gab, I have to agree with giaplex here, I would try without the spacers first if you're running the stock knuckles. The setup I posted should be a good start for medium grip asphalt.
Don't forget too, try playing with the exponential/curve of your steering as well as your dual rate on you radio. Often overlooked, but a huge item. And do circles and adjust your endpoints so that your car can turn the same diameter circle left and right. Will make the car feel much more consistent.
I know most know of this practice, but just in case, I follow these steps:
1. On the transmitter, set dual rate setting to maximum
2. Set trim so so that the car goes straight.
3. Set balance/endpoint left and right so that at max throw the servo is not straining or flexing parts.
4. Put the car sideways against a track board (wall, whatever) and do a half circle, put your foot where the car ends up.
5. Turn the car 180deg against your foot and turn towards the board doing another half circle.
6. Adjust your balance/endpoint until your circles are equal and the car sideswipes your foot and board in each direction, making sure the servo is not straining or flexing parts.
From there you have your maximum steering in the car, use dual rate to dial out as needed (less is often better). You shouldn't ever have to worry about over straining your servo or parts this way. I do this on EVERY car I have.
Don't forget too, try playing with the exponential/curve of your steering as well as your dual rate on you radio. Often overlooked, but a huge item. And do circles and adjust your endpoints so that your car can turn the same diameter circle left and right. Will make the car feel much more consistent.
I know most know of this practice, but just in case, I follow these steps:
1. On the transmitter, set dual rate setting to maximum
2. Set trim so so that the car goes straight.
3. Set balance/endpoint left and right so that at max throw the servo is not straining or flexing parts.
4. Put the car sideways against a track board (wall, whatever) and do a half circle, put your foot where the car ends up.
5. Turn the car 180deg against your foot and turn towards the board doing another half circle.
6. Adjust your balance/endpoint until your circles are equal and the car sideswipes your foot and board in each direction, making sure the servo is not straining or flexing parts.
From there you have your maximum steering in the car, use dual rate to dial out as needed (less is often better). You shouldn't ever have to worry about over straining your servo or parts this way. I do this on EVERY car I have.
Correct Tim. So many people make the mistake of panicking because the observable bump steer over the full length of travel looks alarming.
But...on track the car actually only uses about a 3rd of the available travel and the bump steer effect is inconsequential really.
But...on track the car actually only uses about a 3rd of the available travel and the bump steer effect is inconsequential really.
Thanks for the heads ups guys, I've removed the extra spacers.
The rear of my V2R hooks when I turn with higher corner speed. Stock setup, Tamiya 60D Type B slicks (control tires for a race this Sunday), running on mid grip asphalt. Any suggestions that can prevent the rear from hooking without reducing cornering speed? Thanks!


The rear of my V2R hooks when I turn with higher corner speed. Stock setup, Tamiya 60D Type B slicks (control tires for a race this Sunday), running on mid grip asphalt. Any suggestions that can prevent the rear from hooking without reducing cornering speed? Thanks!


I was having all sorts of trouble with that too at first. Biggest improvement in the car was adding weight to the back of the car. I started at 42gram in the opening under the rear shock tower. Tamed the rear and made the car way more predictable at speed.
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 193
From: Regina, Canada
I'll try #50597 but I was looking for silicon
thank you for your help
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 193
From: Regina, Canada
Thought that was the norm coming from HK
Last edited by irvinew; 06-15-2017 at 06:03 AM. Reason: clarify
Tamiya 42137 or 53574 are the main silicon o-ring options for the TRF dampers. They've also got x-rings if you want to get fancy.
I'm using the blue o-rings right now and they're pretty good. Also have a few sets with red (rubber?) o-rings and they're fine. Been told to avoid the X versions, so I have.
As for the rcmart shipping mess, I'm guessing it's just a matter of their shipping method, mixed with customs at my end. They're not shady. I'm thinking growing pains. They've gone from a tiny company that sold fishing supplies (yes, that's weird) to a world leader in rc parts in the space of 20 years.
As for the rcmart shipping mess, I'm guessing it's just a matter of their shipping method, mixed with customs at my end. They're not shady. I'm thinking growing pains. They've gone from a tiny company that sold fishing supplies (yes, that's weird) to a world leader in rc parts in the space of 20 years.
I have placed my M05 V2 R for sale, need funds for an F1 
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post14953606

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post14953606
Thanks David, I'll give this a go! Fyi, I followed Tony's recommendation to reduce rear camber, n that worked! Just that I've about -4 deg rear camber now.



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